Deep11

Your are looking in the wrong place. The problem (certainly for the moment) isn’t in the turns. Your best position is out of 2 ball which shows arms straight and good alignment at the white wash. This is huge as it shows your body is happy aligning correctly. Unfortunately in that, and all other cuts, you give up your alignment as you cross the wake, causing you to head as right for the bouy with too much speed (and your question about how to turn - effectively when out of control, which shouldn’t be your plan). If you can get the alignment consistent at the white wash and hold it to the other white wash, you will make and carry speed such that the turns will be more like 6 easy starts rather than actual turns.

@Horton said : When coaching where I get lost is the following situation. The skier understands what a stacked or athletic position looks like. The end goal is crystal clear. The skier has a decent stack into the first white water The skier is a broken hot mess by the secondwhite water. Hips back / elbows are bent / back ankle is very bent / ass is dragging Id be interested in the collective views on managing this issue. From the coaching I do, I see this a lot and depending on the level of the skier the cause (and solution) appears to be quite different?

I ski RTP during the season and reflex R-style in the winter - because with the R-Style I can wear a neoprene sock comfortably as the temperature gets down to freezing. Going from RTP to R-style with sock I feel no difference whatsoever. In the spring going from R-style to RTP takes a couple of sets as things are just a more “loose” with the RTP. Actual performance (for me) no difference at all between the two, but with the RTP you can do cool dockstarts and take your foot out before you drop 😎also as the lake level goes down less likely to damage bottom of the ski on any rocks around.

Has this always been JH set up? Would be interested to know what he was running on a conventional set up before he started tinkering? Suspect as the athlete he is, that 39 goes down on a conventional set up. This looks like searching for the extra bouy rather than the reason he skis well. Ie no one else should be doing this 🙂

Im one of those folk who videos every set. Given different drivers and observers, I needed a system to be robust and “fool proof”. Im using the hero 10 black with the QR code settings on a skidoc. Crucially, to manage the issues previously mentioned, I use a Vloggers case with a 52mm thread which takes a 2.0X Marumi 52mm 2.0X tele converter. I’ve Set the QR code to turn off image stabilisation, use linear lens and max digital zoom (which is x2) - works perfectly for 16m and shorter - see attached video. The best thing is that with the screen lock on I just turn the camera on - point it at the QR code on my phone to secure the settings, attach to the ski dock and no one needs to touch it after that. Between sets its really simple to watch the videos back using the GoPro Quik app (which streams directly to the phone without having to download and use up memory.) https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/lm91ptrl9xlz96ncydvly/GX015095.MP4?rlkey=snwf5kb7uk4pc4qxwtngmy2fi&dl=0

So its only possible to watch live ?

Been a while since checked the forum - loads of interesting comments. I suppose my question may not have been specific enough? In terms of “how strong do we need to be to run short line” I think a “correlation” rather than “causation” is what I’m thinking about. It’s not so much how strong do you need to be, but once you can run short line, how strong are you? That might then give the winter gym training some meaning. Thinking about the best exercises to build muscle for a sport, “specificity” trumps everything. Meaning if you do the sport correctly then you will develop the best conditioning and strength for the sport in question. Could explain why Nate doesn’t look like a beast, if he is technically doing everything as close to ideal as possible, he will only be developing the muscle strength necessary to manage the loads he’s experiencing. The more muscular skiers are either in the gym, doing other sports or taking loads that are less than ideal. Thinking this through seems to further support the idea for free-skiing. Free-skiing, with the mindset for developing the correct rhythm and timing with the boat, may be the closest we can get to focusing on the best strength training for the sport.

Leading on from the “what does CR or other do differently…..?” Many of us are working hard in the off-season on our strength and conditioning, which has me thinking about “benchmarking”. This is perhaps a “how long is a bit of string?” Question, (its winter though and its still dark outside): What do we think is the “minimum dose” of strength to be able to consistently ski deep (38off & shorter) short line? The immediate measures that come to mind are: Deadlift Squat (back and front) Pull up / muscle up Bench press - all as a percentage (or multiple of) body weight. The easy answer is that whoever you are you could always benefit from being stronger. If your goal is to ski short line however having a benchmark to work to might be really useful (and also reinforce the need for better technique, if you have achieved the benchmark.) Technique as we know is a massive variable with, I think we’d assume, poor technique requiring greater strength. I dont think a knowledge of someones strength would ever be a surrogate marker for where they can get to, but it might be helpful in showing where they need to focus their limited time. The best data would be to put the best skiers in each category (36, 55 & seniors) to a strength test - probably not practical though. I’m fairly sure some of the best skiers go nowhere near a gym and simply do the sport to get better - they would be the best to test directly, if we could 🙂 K

What is really nuts is that they keep that up for an hour - used to kill me about 40min out ! You’ll also see that the inland stuff with the rollers is not actually that fast - the conditions drop the speed to around 50-60mph. More folk get injured in 3 - event than racing.

Unfortunately not the Day 3 video but the prize giving :( Day 3 doesnt appear to be available ….

Does anyone out there have a zero off head unit for a Malibu 5.7l (circa 2010) Or a “fix” - Ours has stopped going off and on. Many thanks Kevin

Yes dual fuel now - works great (esp. when petrol is $8 gallon).

Thanks for all the comments (and those that messaged me) - think I have all the info I need now ?

Hi - we have a new 2022 200. It’s been gas converted and due to being open bow the gas tank is mounted in the space behind the passenger seat - there is nowhere else. The tank is 75l so fullup we essentially have an extra, average size, passenger on that side. What we are finding is that with even one observer the boat sits over onto the passenger side such that it kicks a spray up off that gunnel and adds an extra rooster in the wake - at 14&13m it’s like skiing through a shower. Is this a common problem ? Is the 200 really twitchy about balance ? (We’ve had Malibu before and one or two passengers doesn’t make much of difference - even if the boat is over slightly it didn’t have an effect on the feeling behind it.) Maybe the 2022 is different from previous models? We have tried moving passengers around and also added a “fat sack” behind the driver. This improves it but I’m not sure I’m happy carrying the extra weight (or having to move it around based on observers). Tried the fat sack in the open bow but in the turn the driver gets sprayed as the front digs in! Any advice welcome ?

Started in slalom course at age about 15 - got to 18m at 34mph (hand driven behind an old Bosch) before went off to uni. Did a few yrs ski racing whilst at uni due to the social side and availability. Gave up all skiing for about 15yrs while started and developed my business. Took it up again at age 40 bashing away at 18m 36mph. Realised at age 45 that didnt need to ski 36mph (Too much testosterone at our site!) Became a slalom “student” and sought out the right coaches for me to develop the correct technique at 34mph. Progressed until the season before covid, at 55, I was running 12m every set, ran 11.25 twice and had a practice pb of 2@10.75 (39off) The covid yrs and lack of time on the water have messed with my skiing and I didn’t look at 11.25 during them - this year!

What @horton said ! You could start by trying to lose the idea of “loading hard behind the boat” - whilst the “idea” may have helped you when you ran 35 before, for many many reasons this is NOT what you want to be doing now. Midwake you need to be stacked and in a balanced strong position (yes elbows on vest) but should be coming up into your outbound swing. One of the most common misconceptions is that being in a strong stacked position midwake also means being on edge and loading against the boat - it doesn’t, if you are loading against the boat at midwake you are just “pushing water”.

@horton - dont think it semantics. Your comment about being premature makes sense, in this situation however my understanding of @MarcusBrown is that its a different way of finishing the turn (or turning in for the gate) when everything is going right. Even when youve got all the smear you can (inevitable at shorter lengths) if you keep the line tight and continue outbound (correctly balanced - if possible), where you might otherwise continue to pressure the front foot, with this technique you consciously apply back foot pressure - the ski snaps round to finish the turn. What i feel the challenge with this technique is, is managing speed - too fast approaching the turn and this is the wrong tool. Front foot pressure allows more braking when youve spiked too hard. (That said the c85 seems to allow a faster approach with this technique than previous skis ive tried - it feels like it pretty much stops going outbound and goes directly inbound without losing much down course distance - -up to 35off anyway)

im quite surprised this hasn’t created more interest - maybe everyone is skiing now (or too confused by fixing Hortons onside !) Totally agree by the way - another “opposite” way to achieve the same thing in our crazy sport: Riding through the turn on the front foot works well and seems to be the current focus of coaching. However going out until you cant go any further and having the balance point of the ski drop back slightly (with a bit of back foot pressure) does the same thing. I find it easier to keep a tight line with this approach. Also don’t need as much energy at the midline (easier on the body) as not aiming to be as up course as possible but simply wide enough at the ball when your speed equalizes with the boat. Not sure how short you can with this technique though…..

Tournament PB into 38off Harder to achieve and keep the cross course speed up = slower. Which of course means pulling long / straight at the bouy which is where everyone feels it faster :)

How about @Chris Rossi commenting on the perspective of a coach I know you’ve spent time with (Dimitri Kourounis in Porto Heli , Greece), that “you don’t turn the ski with any active input but instead let the ski find the right time to turn and then follow it as quickly as you can?”

Saw on the other thread about setting gps on new GoPro’s with QR code. Have old GoPro but new max (for kitesurfing and the like). Thought I’d try the QR code thing - works like a dream and will make a real change as can now view each pass right after my set before I go out again. Am on holiday in PortoHeli (Greece) this is a sunset pass from last night with the gogpro max set to: 1060/60fps/ narrow and 53kph start/stop. It’s a 13m (32off) pass raw footage lifted straight to my phone app and then drop box. Using my “travel mount” which is piece of plastic pipe which slides over the pylon :) Looks perfect for what I want. Won’t be going back to old GoPro and no need for a new one. https://www.dropbox.com/s/y16hrc07i2yozge/PortoHeli2021.MP4?dl=0

For me the problem is two fold: 1. Keeping hands warm 2. Maintaining sufficient grip strength for short line loading. Warm is actually quite easy as there are many 2/3mm Kitesurf/jkayak gloves out there with Kevlar / Amara palms. Grip strength is the challenge as any liner under your glove drops the strength quickly (thinner handle helps). What i found works for me: 1. Using clinchers 2. Using 0.5mm titanium liners 3. Thinner handle than without liners 4. Warm hands in hot water before going out and keep out the water With this I have full feeling and almost full grip for a full set. The problem is that even with clinchers the liners wear through and then your hands get cold quite quickly - typically use 2-3 pairs a winter. Last year tried a new combination: 1. Clinchers 2. 3mm Open palm kayak gloves 3. Warm hands before going out and keep out the water Works a treat - turns out that its the back of your hands that lose the heat really quickly and get hit by the windchill If I keep my hands on the handle I can go a full set with almost normal grip strength. FYI - we break the ice to ski when necessary so this is tried and tested to 0deg C :) https://www.amazon.co.uk/IST-S900-Amara-Neoprene-Gloves/dp/B076T42L95 https://www.roostersailing.com/products/105322 https://www.wetsuitcentre.co.uk/mystic-star-3mm-open-palm-wetsuit-mitten.html

FYI : If you try to donate from outside US it defaults to $15 shipping - keep going and select “self collection” at next step to remove shipping.

Is this going to be available to watch again ? (Links are dead now)

Long shot but does anyone have a broken 5.7 340 GM Malibu engine with intact throttle sensor and ECU - ours won’t get up to speed and has been isolated to these parts? Thx Kevin