Joeprunc

X2 PTM mirror and bracket

Love the commitment. We have a skier in our group that had troubles getting up on a traditional ski. He now skis on a Connelly Big Easy and has no issue with getting up. x100 on driver not hammering the throttle. I've also helped folks getup skiing by having them sit of 2 or 3 orange life vests, this helps keep the bum and rest of the body closer to the surface of the water.

I'm not a tournament skier, so take it for what its worth....I've gotten better at my gates by not worrying about going though them....hear me out here. I've seen too many people start learning the course and modify their lean in or cut (to the gates) to ensure they go through the gates. Which usually results in a extremely loaded line, or a soft pull. The pull through the gates is what is going to get you wide and early to 1. If one were to only focus on getting wide and finding the correct skier to boat speed to cut in, your muscle memory of a good pull out and efficient cut will start building consistency. Once that consistency is built then work backwards and adjust your initial pull out. I don't get paid to ski so take it for what its worth.

I like @JDskiNECA advice....and if all else fails replace 4 ball with this

US Gear Handle.

I had a 1995 Tige SLM2000 and would prefer skiing the Tige over the slant back SN. If it was the next generation SN (1997-2001) I would vote for the SN. This would be both course and open water skiing. The 1993 Tige was the first year they made boats, so I'd be a little hesitant on moving that direction. The Tige also has wood stringers so be sure to check for decay, soft spots, and motor mount concerns. The 1996 SN has a higher freeboard, takes rough water better, could throw a better wakeboard wake, thus I would say is a better family friendly boat.

ION-S now 9970 CC

Interesting topic. I spent the first half of my life surfing and following swells and storms to predict where to surf. The four variables that I used to predict what spots to surf were, height, period (frequency), tide, and swell angle. I can tell you that the longer period swells had more driving force behind them, and were much more ideal for point breaks, where the swell had the power to wrap around the reef (more potential energy). "even if it was a small height". The longer period swells were generated from storms further away, vs the short period swells (the distance bleed height, but also allowed for a more organized swell). These storms required a lot more potential energy to perpetuate through the ocean. Tide and angle depicted how the swell would hit the reef. If you have wake surfed, think of the period as the difference between riding a fully loaded boat at 9 mph vs 13 mph. The 9 mph wake is generally taller, but has less push, where as the 13 mph wave may be smaller but the "sweet spot" is much longer. I wonder if the period between a surf, wake, and ski boat are significantly different? I think the other contributing factor of the surf wake not affecting a private lake shoreline (straight) is given the angle at which the swell contacts the shore. At slower speeds the boat wake is angle is much larger (say 45°). The surf wake bleeds off energy as the depth decreases, and as it hits the shoreline the wake slowly works down the shoreline gradually bleeding the remaining energy. If you take that same wake and change the angle to parallel to the shoreline, there is no gradual bleed and you get a hard pounding. The faster the boat travels the smaller the wake angle....maybe this has something to do why the wake boat wake is more "detrimental" to the shoreline.

I was able to get two sets on a 66" ION-S this month. Granted its winter and drysuit weather I wasn't expecting much. First set I was scratching my head as I could barely run my opener (-22). Second day was better, but still different not the wow factor I was hoping for. I'd like to blame it on the cold weather. Excited to try to figure this ski out this spring. Settings are all stock. _________ Update: I just wanted to say, I am very impressed with D3 and their service. Shortly after this post, Terry reached out to me to find out more and see how he can help. He provided great insight and I am very excited for the spring. Thank you Terry and D3

Great, so you are telling me the most difficult fin measurement is the most critical? I feel like you can give the same pair of calipers to three different skiers, and they will all pull different DFT measurements from a ski. The change in ski tail concavity, placement of caliper, and tail bevel I feel all play into this inconsistency. I'm not an expert by any means at adjusting fin dimensions, but it just seems like this is always the most difficult to get consistent dimensions. I guess that's why some folks swear by the GOODE Caliper with the fin slot.

@swbca as mentioned above PP customer service is wonderful. They will help you over phone or email until your issues are resolved. They have Youtube videos that help walk through several of the major steps for easier viewing. There are also several threads on BOS for additional information for dialing in ZBox. I think this one was a fairly good one. https://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/21308/perfect-pass-z-box-upgrade And there was a spreadsheet for PP Z-Box settings, unfortunately most are for SN https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UsM99RDC-YlpybtqcjCv1-0ArnljSR_lNVITXSYwElA/edit#gid=0 If your current PP display looks like this it would be considered a single line and require an upgrade with Stargazer and/or Zbox

I too feel less strain on my elbows and wrists when using a radiused handle. I love my US Gear Radius handle, but it is reaching the end of its life soon :(. I like the look of the Masterline Radius ERGO handle, but curious if I'll notice a difference between a 1.0625" dia and a 1" dia handle. A 1/16" is nothing, but I know with riding Motocross, I am very picky with diameters of different grips.

I think SG +Zbox is a good upgrade from PP classic once you get it dialed. Mine took some trouble shooting to get a good pull (I think this is more due to my course setup), but now that its dialed it is super easy to setup any skier and get them a great pull. If you have a PP system on the 190, the install will be quite a bit easier that if you don't have PP (as the servo and wiring should be reusable). But both installs are fairly easy, and PerfectPass customer service is phenomenal.

Getting 10+ years out of a suit is great. However one thing a lot of folks do that kill that life early are exposing these suits to sun and heat. Keep them out of the sun and in the house when not using them.

@75Tique if the setup is too tight, have the boat driver exit the course then dog leg to the right when you drop. Then coming into the course dog leg left (you can drop a temporary buoy to identify when or where to turn to line up the course nicely). Also if you are using PP GPS ZBox, don't engage PP until after the turn, otherwise #1 ball will probably be hot.

Our course is E/W. The only time we have glare problems is when the sun is low 20-40 min before sunset, or 20-40 min after sunrise. I'd guess by the time the sun is inline with your course it will be high enough to not cause an issue.

I can't comment on the heavy short # of reps vs light and large # reps. But I've heard kettlebells are great to work multiple muscles at the same time. If kettlebells are your go to, you might want to look at getting a set of adjustable KBs. Small foot print and easy enough to have at both houses.

Interesting topic.... I was one of those kids many moons ago. I quit playing varsity baseball as a senior, I was bored (right field is a boring position), tired of playing ball year round, and wanted to do other activities. I have a close ski buddy, his teenagers have little to no interest in skiing anymore.

@Charliesav7 From your third picture, your onside pull looks fairly strong. In general finishing an onside turn and connecting with the handle you have a more natural and comfortable body position with hips and shoulders connecting to the line and boat. Because of this you are able to finish an on side turn and maintain great lean angle going through the wakes...However this strong pull and good angle generates A LOT of speed. This speed is good, but also hinders many folks that don't have the same technique on their offside. These excessive speed generated from your onside pull is too much for you to setup and execute a successful offside turn. When we are going TOO FAST the natural human intuition to slow down is lean back which results in a heavy back foot, a slow turn, and difficulty finishing your offside turn. My guess is your difficultly in the offside turn and pull initiates from not getting forward on the ski. The onside speed carried into the offside turn might cause one to want to scrub speed before initiating the next turn. My suggestion to you is two part: 1) Temporarily ease up your onside pull just a smidge to decrease your entry speed on your offside pre-turn. This will allow more you comfort and time to work on your offside pre-turn, turn, and reconnecting with the handle. 2) Turn Help: - In you preturn push your hips forward on the ski and focus on applying weight to your left big toe. This will do a few things: Keep you from applying back foot pressure to slow, keep your hips from falling over your rear foot, and engage the tip of the ski to generate a better turn. - When the ski rips around be patient coming back to the handle and focus on not connecting to the handle until the ski tip crosses the line. (the offside picture you posted shows your ski point down river and you are already two hands on the rope) - Once you connect focus on keeping hips up, and use your visual point of reference through the pull (some focus down course, I focus on the spotter or back of the boat). As your muscle memory gets better on the offside turn, start increasing the intensity of your onside pull. Summary: Less Juice on your onside Hips UP Big Toe Patient Hips UP Point of reference Repeat

At -15' the 196 will have a better wake. 09 will be larger but soft and gradual. Remove the back seat and keep fuel at <1/2 full. RLXI I like driver seat and controls on RLXI better than 196 (but that is personal preference). Some complain about how far past the windshield extends past the driver, more difficult to grab dock while parking, or putting fender out.

@Murrski Was looking at the functional trainer as well, as I spend 50% of my time at the gym on one. Reason I went a different path was how permanent they are and their size. Although I could see my wife approving it for a vest, wetsuit, towel hanger >:) @Kwoody51 kettlebells are the best. I still am amazed how nice the adjustable competition kettlebells work...and how little space they take.

I just went through this breakdown recently. We have a 18 month old and it is already difficult to get out, nevermind if the gyms were open. Having something that allows me to workout during his naps is very rewarding. I turned one stall in my garage to a gym with the following: Equipment I had: Light weight dumbbells 3, 5, 8, 10 yoga ball PT bands 12 kg kettle bell 8 kg kettle bell I purchased: Incline/Decline/flat/leg bench Bowflex adjustable dumbbell set 50 lbs (2) Kettlebell King Adjustable Competition Kettlebells (takes about 1-2 minutes to change weights, so have each one set a different weights) Really like the finish vs the other adjustable kettlebells weight rack Pull up bar Pulley system that attaches to pull up bar Set of loop resistance bands Also downloaded fitbod app. Since the equipment I currently have is very limited...the app allows me to adjust the "gym equipment" and helps keep me from getting bored, it is also a way to make workouts easier, and holds me accountable.

x2 for domednumbers

https://www.krypt-towers.com/quick-release-water-ski-slalom-ski-rack/

At 26 mph, I'd recommend a 67". My wife is 5'7" 135 lbs and rides an HO 67" S2. When she is in the course she skis at 27 mph, open water 30 mph. She use to be on a 65" Radar Strada (I know not apples and apples), but that ski was too small for her.