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Joeprunc

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  1. Love the commitment. We have a skier in our group that had troubles getting up on a traditional ski. He now skis on a Connelly Big Easy and has no issue with getting up. x100 on driver not hammering the throttle. I've also helped folks getup skiing by having them sit of 2 or 3 orange life vests, this helps keep the bum and rest of the body closer to the surface of the water.
  2. I'm not a tournament skier, so take it for what its worth....I've gotten better at my gates by not worrying about going though them....hear me out here. I've seen too many people start learning the course and modify their lean in or cut (to the gates) to ensure they go through the gates. Which usually results in a extremely loaded line, or a soft pull. The pull through the gates is what is going to get you wide and early to 1. If one were to only focus on getting wide and finding the correct skier to boat speed to cut in, your muscle memory of a good pull out and efficient cut will start building consistency. Once that consistency is built then work backwards and adjust your initial pull out. I don't get paid to ski so take it for what its worth.
  3. I like @JDskiNECA advice....and if all else fails replace 4 ball with this
  4. I had a 1995 Tige SLM2000 and would prefer skiing the Tige over the slant back SN. If it was the next generation SN (1997-2001) I would vote for the SN. This would be both course and open water skiing. The 1993 Tige was the first year they made boats, so I'd be a little hesitant on moving that direction. The Tige also has wood stringers so be sure to check for decay, soft spots, and motor mount concerns. The 1996 SN has a higher freeboard, takes rough water better, could throw a better wakeboard wake, thus I would say is a better family friendly boat.
  5. Interesting topic. I spent the first half of my life surfing and following swells and storms to predict where to surf. The four variables that I used to predict what spots to surf were, height, period (frequency), tide, and swell angle. I can tell you that the longer period swells had more driving force behind them, and were much more ideal for point breaks, where the swell had the power to wrap around the reef (more potential energy). "even if it was a small height". The longer period swells were generated from storms further away, vs the short period swells (the distance bleed height, but also allowed for a more organized swell). These storms required a lot more potential energy to perpetuate through the ocean. Tide and angle depicted how the swell would hit the reef. If you have wake surfed, think of the period as the difference between riding a fully loaded boat at 9 mph vs 13 mph. The 9 mph wake is generally taller, but has less push, where as the 13 mph wave may be smaller but the "sweet spot" is much longer. I wonder if the period between a surf, wake, and ski boat are significantly different? I think the other contributing factor of the surf wake not affecting a private lake shoreline (straight) is given the angle at which the swell contacts the shore. At slower speeds the boat wake is angle is much larger (say 45°). The surf wake bleeds off energy as the depth decreases, and as it hits the shoreline the wake slowly works down the shoreline gradually bleeding the remaining energy. If you take that same wake and change the angle to parallel to the shoreline, there is no gradual bleed and you get a hard pounding. The faster the boat travels the smaller the wake angle....maybe this has something to do why the wake boat wake is more "detrimental" to the shoreline.
  6. I was able to get two sets on a 66" ION-S this month. Granted its winter and drysuit weather I wasn't expecting much. First set I was scratching my head as I could barely run my opener (-22). Second day was better, but still different not the wow factor I was hoping for. I'd like to blame it on the cold weather. Excited to try to figure this ski out this spring. Settings are all stock. _________ Update: I just wanted to say, I am very impressed with D3 and their service. Shortly after this post, Terry reached out to me to find out more and see how he can help. He provided great insight and I am very excited for the spring. Thank you Terry and D3
  7. Great, so you are telling me the most difficult fin measurement is the most critical? I feel like you can give the same pair of calipers to three different skiers, and they will all pull different DFT measurements from a ski. The change in ski tail concavity, placement of caliper, and tail bevel I feel all play into this inconsistency. I'm not an expert by any means at adjusting fin dimensions, but it just seems like this is always the most difficult to get consistent dimensions. I guess that's why some folks swear by the GOODE Caliper with the fin slot.
  8. @swbca as mentioned above PP customer service is wonderful. They will help you over phone or email until your issues are resolved. They have Youtube videos that help walk through several of the major steps for easier viewing. There are also several threads on BOS for additional information for dialing in ZBox. I think this one was a fairly good one. https://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/21308/perfect-pass-z-box-upgrade And there was a spreadsheet for PP Z-Box settings, unfortunately most are for SN https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UsM99RDC-YlpybtqcjCv1-0ArnljSR_lNVITXSYwElA/edit#gid=0 If your current PP display looks like this it would be considered a single line and require an upgrade with Stargazer and/or Zbox
  9. I too feel less strain on my elbows and wrists when using a radiused handle. I love my US Gear Radius handle, but it is reaching the end of its life soon :(. I like the look of the Masterline Radius ERGO handle, but curious if I'll notice a difference between a 1.0625" dia and a 1" dia handle. A 1/16" is nothing, but I know with riding Motocross, I am very picky with diameters of different grips.
  10. I think SG +Zbox is a good upgrade from PP classic once you get it dialed. Mine took some trouble shooting to get a good pull (I think this is more due to my course setup), but now that its dialed it is super easy to setup any skier and get them a great pull. If you have a PP system on the 190, the install will be quite a bit easier that if you don't have PP (as the servo and wiring should be reusable). But both installs are fairly easy, and PerfectPass customer service is phenomenal.
  11. Getting 10+ years out of a suit is great. However one thing a lot of folks do that kill that life early are exposing these suits to sun and heat. Keep them out of the sun and in the house when not using them.
  12. @75Tique if the setup is too tight, have the boat driver exit the course then dog leg to the right when you drop. Then coming into the course dog leg left (you can drop a temporary buoy to identify when or where to turn to line up the course nicely). Also if you are using PP GPS ZBox, don't engage PP until after the turn, otherwise #1 ball will probably be hot.
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