SDNAH2OSKIER

Lots of chemicals in new products. Very easy to understand why you are having a reaction. I agree with the advise to clean it well, in fact I would recommend a strong degreaser and follow up with something more neutral like a glass cleaner or mild dish soap solution, but if it continues, its your body telling you not to touch that stuff. I would be curious to know if the product was "made in China" or otherwise manufactured "somewhere else" you really don't know what processes and chemicals they use to fabricate gizmos these days.

New boats are priced according to your and their ability to finance them. As long as you people keep getting 20 year notes on 100k boats and have payments of $500 for the privilege, they will keep raising the prices.

Thanks guys, its going to the shop and shut us down for next weekend. Boo....

OK time to play "name that leaky seal" Anyone see this before? Its the very back of the trans assembly, not sure of the terminology, but flange, prop shaft coupler? Must be a seal at the very end that gave up its ghost. Elapsed time is about an hour. And this is completely static, not even moved by hand. Topped it off and came back an hour later.

OK, latest update, there is a small threaded screw hole in the bottom of the flange pictured above. A. Why would there be fluid in this flange to begin with? And B. is there in fact supposed to be a screw in there? TY

My dad did. He didn't even know how to turn it on. My brother and I took care of it from day one. I think I was 14-15yo we kept it in perfect shape BUT you gotta be that guy and I run into very few of them, and even fewer females in my wheeling and dealing. I have the rule of "5" if I find 5 notable defects, NEXT!

I am getting the transmission cooling line ordered. I know that has failed so step 1. But I am at a loss as to where its leaking from other than there. The boat has not even been turned over, no pressure in the system. I need a bore scope so I can clean it up and look up under it right after I top it off.

I do this with vehicles frequently, LEGALLY, you would need a trip permit for each state that you passed through. Some states will recognize out of state permits, others will not. Would a cop pull you over for something that pathetic, depends, they can be pretty shady. If you want to move it without jumping through all of these hoops, and I don't blame you for a minute, they are foolish revenue grabs and think one size fits all, you get lumped in with commercial vehicles etc... I have on many occasions asked sellers to allow me to use the plate, of course I have my insurance in force when I get there and sign a release of liability to cover the seller, and I overnight the plate back to them. $25 or whatever, money well spent. I would also make sure the trailer gets the once over, I assume you are working on this, you know lights that ALL work, and good tires. A cop would be a lot more likely to want to see documentation if you are bombing down the road with no/few lights or non working directionals.

OK, I totally forgot this was a boat for about an hour, what was I thinking. I went back out to get the part # off the cooling line, bick thick stripe of ATF down the centerline of the bilge. That did not come off the cooling line. : ( Here is a pic of the coupling that connects it to the prop shaft, it is leaking badly on the prop shaft side, leaking onto the prop shaft and off the bottom of the coupling.

Cool, that is what I was thinking. I was going to pull off that big metal bracket, its only two bolts then I will have ready access. I don't have big hands but I can tell from looking at it, that's not happening..... The other line is fine, its got another 3 months at least. :D B)

@eyepeeler Did you replace the whole line? Looks like the original marks still line up so guessing the coupling is failing??? I am a happy kid, thanks for the help!

@eyepeeler You are a genius...…

My only observation is that you ski like I do, tailback rider. I sing it to the Beattles "paperback writer" Try to get up over the ski a bit, it will accelerate much harder. The ski will plane, track and steer more efficiently at the speeds suggested although that can be intimidating. If you get up over the top of it and increase the boat speed, things will start happening a lot faster. I alsoimagine I am "going for a ball" and try to establish a rythmn in the run like I am skiing a course. Lots of info, def can overload yourself and get caught trying to do too many things. By the way, water conditions look dreamy.

OK, update, I found the cooling lines, followed them to the exchanger, everything is fine up front. I can clearly see the line on the port side, DOES NOT appear to be leaking. I cannot clearly see the other line going into the top of the trans, it is blocked by box holding some electronic gear, is it the perfect pass??? I don't think so, but the throttle cable from PP is attached on the port side. I have wiped the box and bilge area down very well, if there were a visible oil path, I should be able to see it. Having wiped it down, there was nothing apparent at all INCLUDING the rear seal. When I first looked at it, I could clearly feel fresh fluid along the bottom of case, today, I ran my finger around the lower back half of the case, basically the half circle below the output shaft seal and it felt DRY. ?????? So, I didn't want to wake up my neighbors, but I am going to put a hose on it and let it run for a minute, but not sure that is going to help much, I don't want to put it in gear with no water getting to the water box???? Any ideas here?

@Andre could def be me... I am looking for a diagram of the assembly if anyone has a link or a good exploded/clear view of the trans. I am going to clean up all the fluid and thought I would run it for a couple of minutes, but out of the water with no load on the shaft not sure what I will see. On my old Sportster, I could clearly see the cooling lines and oil cooler, this boat is not the same though, does it have an ATF oil cooler? Great info as always, I will follow up in a couple hours and let you know if I was able to pinpoint something. It is most def ATF fluid though.

I will check again tomorrow, but its going to the shop. Needs trailer tires too. $$$$$$ $300 a pull...… : )

I have had a mild issue with this, my chiro showed me a specific stretch for the flexor and it works great, difficult to explain. I would consult, chiro, yogi, md for a stretch that isolates the flexor, helped me a lot. And, my brother is a surgeon and told me many years ago, ibuprofen (anti-inflammatory of your choice) BEFORE you ski.

We ski out at the river, its not a place where I can afford to try something like the Lucas product. I inspected it, its dripping off the centerline of the belly of the trans housing, that was my reason for suspecting the shaft seal. I am trying to get my buddy (owns a shop) over here to properly diagnose, but it is a significant leak. Thanks for the input!

OK, so the boat was off the water for almost two years. It sits covered under cover in San Diego, but as we all know, boats do not like to sit. We had it out weekend before last and the trans slipped pulling me out. Checked the trans and fluid was low. I know I had checked it prior to taking it out and it was full. I topped it off, but after a couple of runs it had already pissed out a noticeable amount into the bilge. Guessing output shaft seal? Or????? My question, I did some poking around, its a job to get it out and replace the seal, if that is in fact the cause of the leak, but I would like opinions, should I go the extra and rebuild it? Boat is in great condition and we all like it and have no $$ desire to get a newer hull, but I also don't want to do it just for fun. When the fluid was at the proper fill level it operates correctly and we only noticed the slipping twice. TY!!!! -Doug

Kdinger838 we committed to "making it right" and willing to work and spend money to keep it operating properly. Its just odd to have had one "bad" mechanic and one we thought was good, who corrected "some" of the issues the first guy missed or created but probably didn't even check or maybe just glanced at the fluid level. The trailer is newer to us, (part of the problem) so last year was really the first year we went through it after a bad tire and bad bearing the first two times it was used. We were under the impression it was in better condition, but once we realized where we were, we decided to get ahead of it so annoyed that we are spending time and money again, we wanted to ski again Friday and not looking good as of today. We can tow it with my Ram and or a BMW X5, but we go down long grades, much prefer a brake equipped trailer even with the 1/2 ton.

Cool, I am on it. I have vac set up to bleed brakes, @oldjeep the part is in fact a UFP actuator, I don't recall the part number but it was specific to a disc brake set up. I will call and make sure I am getting the right one. I thought brake fluid was generally backwards compatible, at least I thought you could use 5 when system required 4. UFP A-60 Hydraulic Brake Actuator (7500lb. 2" Ball). 2 axle disc brakes.

After spending a lot of money last year on rehabbing a twelve-year-old trailer, we continue to have problems. We put all new running gear spindles brake rotors pads and tires and our first outing of the year the brake actuator fails. I can't remember how many times I recall saying to the two mechanics who worked on it "make sure you check everything" I want this trailer to run like new. I found the actuator Assembly online for $205 period looks like it is plug-and-play can anyone comment? I have lost faith in the two mechanics I have been using.

Replied thank you!!

I found an HO TX for $300 sans bindings. That sounds like a deal. I do need boots though, I dont want to pull them off my other ski.

Lake, open ski. There is a course up there we hit but only for fun