rok

OK

Here's a photo of my new rear T-Factor rear binding, yet to be installed on my ski. Is there a reason for the plate to be arched (intentional springiness??) or is it a case of warped assembly? Thanks in advance for your comments.

Would be great to have some more feedback re the new D3 Leverage binding, especially compared to the T-Factor, as I'm in the market for a new pair (I run dbl boots) to replace my fast deteriorating old HO Approaches, which I really like in terms of fit. It seems to me that D3 markets the T-Factors as their highest-end comp bindings, based on pricing. The simplicity, apparent light weight and clean design of the Leverage appeal to me. However, coming from the Approaches, I guess I can use a reasonably stiff construction (both lateral & fore/aft), so would the T-Factors be the better choice? Are they rated as inherently stiffer than the Leverages? Not clear to me in their blurb... Another question is regarding ease of entry: do the Leverages require more effort to slip into, not having the T-Factor's laces? Thanks for all comments.

RIP, Andy.

Ski 'til your palms are raw! (Then tape 'em up and ski some more!)

Make sure you exhale when cutting in from pullout and take it from there...

Who uses mid-loops? I've found it helpful to ski at 33.5 in order to make the transition from 32 to 35. Haven't broken into 38 yet (love my optimism!), but expect that skiing at 36.5 will also help this step be less difficult... Or am I losing time? Pros & cons?

Rocky ropes/Sunshine Water Sports by Laura Pasqua in Miami - great quality, accuracy and she'll custom build you a rope with mid-loops (33.5 off & 36.5 in my case) which IMO are a great stepping stone (been meaning to start a topic on this subject).

Biela, now 11.

Yeah, @Horton - did you use the carbon fin that came with the ski or a regular aluminum one?

Admit it Horton ......... best ski you've ridden, isn't it?....

@KM - do you still want to sell your ski? What year is it? Agreed, carbon fin too soft - ski turned too much no matter what settings. Got mine smoothed out with an HO aluminum fin. I've never skied on anything that felt as good as a Warp, although hard to point out one single superlative factor. To use recent ad copy it's got "power (speed) under control"...

That's an intriguing subject. All my previous skis had a sanded finish on the bottom, but my current (since 2010) Warp9 has a glossy, smooth finish, and it is by far the fastest ski I've been on. What are the implications of a completely smooth bottom vs a sanded finish, and now a textured finish? I've heard the theory behind dimple surfaces reducing drag (golf ball), and all I can say is, my ski is about the fastest thing I've ever ridden (I love it), despite the completely smooth, polished finish. I think the speed is probably more a result of the ski's design than specifically its finish. I'm not about to sand down the bottom of my ski just to test the difference, but I'm guessing it wouldn't change anything. Anyone have any views on this?

Wow, nothing left for me to list! You guys covered all my "weird" habits and then some! PDP, untwisting my rope, pulling down my shorts' legs, and blinking a lot kinda does it for me...

Ski must be an EP Pro Stock...

Make sure you know exactly what the injury was (in my case, the rotator cuff and a practically ruptured Supraspinal tendon). Then get good PT. I couldn't ski for 3 mos., then resumed slowly at a line length where I was sure I wouldn't do another cartwheel with my arm in the water, which was the original cause of the rupture (My shoulder was already somewhat compromised as a result of a smashed collarbone some years ago...). I still do a lot of specific stretching for the shoulder, but pretty happy with it now, so if you treat it right you should be good. My therapist actually approved of the mechanics of skiing on my shoulder ( as long as I didn't fall on it again).

Ski with Chet Raley, of course. Stay anywhere at nearby Delray beach.

Jet skis are so much worse!!......

I had a partial tear of the MCL coming off the chairlift in a tangle with my wife (at Telluride too!) exactly one year ago. Don't even remember it now - 0 pain left. LOTS of ice. But yeah, to be repetitive, you start to feel the other side of 50: what happens is, it gives you all that time, in retrospect, to have gotten hurt lots of times!... Right now I'm enjoying a painless, injury-less period, after having come off two wrecked rotator cuffs, uncounted broken ribs, two smashed collarbones, four herniated discs, etc., all over the course of the last 20 years. I kind of measure the passage of time by these periods!

Warp

You could never zip them up without seriously compressing down dbl hi-wraps... :):)

@Ed Obermeier hit the mark - skiboat engines need torque down low, which brings to mind the old hot rod axiom, "there's no replacement for displacement"... You can turbocharge an engine, but it will typically make power at higher rpms only. Supercharging (pulley or gear-driven forced induction) will help a smaller displacement engine make big power in the low-rpm range, but with added expense and complication, I don't see it as a viable substitute for a big-cube V8. Wankels and two-strokes are characteristically high-rpm power, lower torque engines as well. You can re-engineer them to bring on the power lower in the range, but it's against the nature of their design - I guess that's why we still see 99% of our slalom boats driven by big V8s. Refining the current V8 engines' management systems, as well as better combustion chamber design are the short-term future for better economy & power (where we need it, i.e., in the low rpm range), IMO. Turbodiesel power seems like a possible alternative too, if the cost of diesel oil becomes significantly cheaper (and cleaning up their emissions too). Another aspect is the weight. Sure, lighter is better, but up to a point: slalom boats benefit from the inertia to keep the pull constant. Great post!

Hi @skihart, It's not mahogany - it's "peroba", a very hard native Brazilian wood. The boat itself is cedar & marine grade plywood. Thanks again for all your comments guys!

Appreciate your comments, guys! Here's the everyday pull: Brazilian-built MasterBoat, based on Mastercraft design from mid-90's I believe. Boat is beautifully built, incredible level of finish. Indmar 310hp & Stargazer do a nice job on the course. By the way, it's summer here and I've just come back from a set at the lake...sorry guys!!!!!

Basically a lurker, but enjoy the site immensely. OK, let's see if this is gonna work.... 17' wood ski boat built here in Brazil by an old Austrian craftsman, Max Schacherl, who successfully adapted a shallow-V bertram bottom and direct drive (instead of v-drive) to California skiboat plans, making for a fantastic ride, good tracking on the course and a light & nice looking boat. Mine was one of the last ones he built, commissioned by my dad for me about 35 years ago. Engine is a Ford 351 Cleveland 4V (out of a '70 Mustang Mach 1), basically stock, but we installed a dry sump to get it as low as possible into the bottom of the boat for a shallow shaft angle. Boat does an easy 50+ mph, virtually no wake. Eery skiing the course with it! No speed control so it's a good drill to drive and use a stopwatch at the same time... It's not what I use for everyday skiing on the course anymore (I've got a modern tug with PPSG) but I love taking the old girl out for free skiing and barefooting. Looking forward to eventually teaching my kids (aged 2 & 4) to ski, behind it!