GaryWilkinson

@dchristman Looks like you drive your car with waterski gloves on all year round! Love the dedication! ?

@cragginshred he certainly does. How he gets from that angle and pull to such a great, easy glide is amazing. @rawly good catch on the elbows. I often see images before apex and reach during the glide where skiers stand tall, but that inside elbow is tight in preparation of the reach to be able to turn more completely. ?? @AdamCord thanks for the advice. Agree I’ve got to make a more complete turn with my whole body to have my stack more “complete” and stacked position EARLIER past apex. I believe having more speed coming into the turn is something I have to get used to. Without that speed it’s necessary to “muscle” it around and thus why I’m not getting all around. @adamhcaldwell thanks for the coaching. I must admit I’m confused on the advice to keep my hand close “in front of my chest” during reach. Wouldn’t that limit my reach and inhibit any “snap momentum” coming back to 2 handed connection in order to more completely turn and connect? And a question for all again: The more I look at it the more I see 2 kinds of slalom. Behind the boat slalom Beside the boat slalom. One cannot reach to the side and open the chest, stand up and glide high at 28 off. Thinking mechanically, it’s just not possible, the reach is toward the boat. Whereas, at 35 off the reach is to the side, the glide is high and more free of the boat and the stance is taller and more “open” at apex. So is it better to try 35, 38 off (in the course and free) at a reduced speed in order to get the physical (mechanical) properties of C&S ? I’m gonna try it this weekend and report back ? but I’m VERY interested in your opinions. Thanks guys.

It almost feels like there’s 2 styles or levels of ability. Those who get stacked, generate good speed and momentum with a moderate amount of pull that stops generally at mid line then glides high on the boat around the pylon, and,.... those that don’t. In the “those that don’t” category I’m at the front of the line. So my question to @AdamCord @adamhcaldwell @Horton and all other disciples of Connection & Swing is, what in your opinion, is the best way to learn this skill because I believe it’s the key to making shorter lines better, (yes easier) and with less toll on the body. Continue in the course at 34 doing a few balls at 35 while ending up later and later down course, while never getting high enough or fast enough to get wide, high and early to backside the ball? Or Slow the boat down, even to 30 mph and practice there. Swing as wide as we can free skiing and hook up in proper stacked position with the ski as far away from our head, cut with good angle to centreline and glide wide again, rinse, repeat. (I’m paraphrasing here for brevity) Then gradually speed up as comfort level and ability increases. Pls keep in mind, this is Canada and our season is 1/2 over and I’m on my 12 set only. ? As per cords recommendation, attached are 2 videos In the course I’m attempting to go high, straighten my legs more and swing higher. (poor results as you can see) In the Freeskiing video I’m somewhat more successful at the above listed objectives, but clearly I need to: -start higher at zero ball -stand higher at all points -get my hips higher, shoulders lower and handle more connected at COM So what say you guys? Slow down in free, go to 35 even 38 off to mechanically use the swing getting higher etc Or keep the speed at 34 and try and connect better to swing higher. Obviously the shorter the line, the easier it is to get higher on the boat and take advantage of the pendulum effect. If there’s a 3rd way feel free to describe.

At 61 yrs old I was out early today with my ski buddies and great friends Pierre and Diane and the goal was to video my skiing in 2 different rope lengths and speeds to decide how I could learn connection and swing better to get past 35 off. After seeing the video, well, let’s just say I was bummed that not only did the passes look the same, (they were supposed to be very different going from28 to 35 off) but they looked the same as and maybe a bit worse than 2-3 years ago. I had not advanced a bit. So I have given up on my lifelong goal of running 1 ball at -38 off and will now be less frustrated and I guess more at ease at doing mid 35’s. I’m sure having only done 10 sets so far this year and not having been in the gym like previous years doesn’t help, but at 61? I guess that’s pretty good. Although 38 would be great.

@AdamCord @Horton Adam C, Horton and any other of our experts,... Brutally honest here, it is very difficult to go from a -32 off skier to a -35 or even -38 (gasp) skier. Trying desperately to do the connection and swing. One can get away with edging past the rudder line, even through the second wake and make all 6 at 32 off. But forget -35. Trying all the good parts of a great connection and swing around the pylon and following the handle path while gliding as high as possible but not succeeding (yet) Part of it is I’m sure, not getting enough speed and momentum outbound to trust a body-inside, ski-outside turn. Here’s the question: Should I continue to bash away at 34 mph / 32 + 35 off getting only a few miserable buoys ? OR,... Shorten the line and slow the boat? To say 32, even 31 mph to get used to swinging high on the boat to get used to that line length??? What say you guys? ...Inquiring minds need to know!,...

Kreg was younger than me when I was competing at the national level and was one of the superstars of Canadian and international competitions. His kind demeanour, and youthful spirit was great to see at the Nats every year. Like most Canadian skiers he was a 3-eventer with tricks being his strength. He passed that skill and passion on to his younger brother Jarett and look how far he went! I spent a lot of time with the boys father as I was at that time closer to Dons age than the boys. I miss Don, and miss Kreg. May their family heal and remember the best times.

Wait,... What? @Than_Bogan you want to shorten 10.25 to 10m? And make the course wider? Did you have a hard fall lately and go boom boom? ? What I take from this post is that speed and getting high on the boat is paramount and my current challenge at getting consistent at 35 off. The span and technique differences between 41 and 43 are akin to me worrying about which new Pratt and Whitney engine I should put in my Global Express. But I truly take your point Adam.

This one is my vote

@Orlando76 after hearing from a few experts and kind people like yourselves, I dove in deep and bought a new carb. It seems the 10+ years or so of running less than premium gas that contains ethanol corroded the castings, ports and hard parts of the carb beyond anything a rebuild could fix. I ordered it Monday, got it Tuesday! From SkiDim (fantastic people and service) mechanic put it on yesterday and called to say it’s ready. ?? Thanks again for your help. So it’s premium gas from now on, you guys hear the same? (Avoid ethanol for our boats?)

@Orlando76 would you recommend converting to electronic? I believe the kits keep the housing, sort of for the distributor, but the top end is electronic, no cap, rotor, condenser etc. What do you think? Back to my PDF and your posts to work on the carb this Saturday. First thing is to remove the barrels, see what type it is, see if the floats are “gas-logged” and try and adjust them. I shall take pix and report what I find.

@MDB1056 ya believe it or not, it’s points ignition. Distributor cap, rotor, condenser etc. It’s all there. I’m going to have another go at it this weekend. Found this on the web also. This with your collective advice above Will get me going hopefully. GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR ADJUSTING BRASS AND NITROPHYL FLOATS Two methods of float adjustment are provided for with Holley performance carburetors depending on the style of float bowl and needle and seat assembly employed. They are the inter- nal (dry) setting and the external (wet) setting. The internal float adjustment is accomplished with the fuel bowl off the carburetor. With “internally adjustable” needle and seats, the fuel bowl is inverted and the float tang, or tab, is adjusted to the point where the float surface is parallel to the fuel bowl surface, just underneath. An initial dry setting can also be accomplished with “externally adjustable” needle and seats. To achieve this, invert the fuel bowl and turn the adjusting nut until the float surface lies parallel to the fuel bowl casting surface underneath. Another, more accurate adjustment can be made with the side hung style float if measuring gauges, such as drill bits, are available. Here, with the fuel bowl inverted, the primary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 7/64" gap between the “toe” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “toe” is the part of the float fur- thest from where the arm is attached. The secondary float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 13/64" gap between the “heel” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl surface underneath. The float “heel” is the part of the float closest to the point where the arm is attached. A “wet” level float adjustment can be performed on either the side or center hung floats, if the fuel bowls have provision for the externally adjustable needle and seats. This adjustment is made as follows. Start the vehicle up and move it out of the garage and into an open area where plenty of fresh ventila- tion is available. Allow the idle to stabilize. Turn the engine off and remove the sight plug from the primary fuel bowl to inspect the fuel level. If it’s been determined that adjustment is required use a large screw driver to crack loose the lock screw. With a 5/8" open-end wrench turn the adjusting nut clockwise to lower the float level. Conversely, turn the adjusting nut counter-clockwise to raise the float level. Tighten the lock screw. Restart the vehicle and let the engine idle stabilize. Shut the engine off. Remove the sight plug to reinspect the fuel level. The fuel level should sta- bilize at just below the level of the fuel bowl sight plug hole. ADJUSTING DURACON (PLASTIC) FLOATS The Duracon float rides higher on the fuel than either the brass or nitrophyl float and, therefore, a higher setting is in order. A Duracon float, set at the same level as either a brass or nitrophyl float, would make the carburetor run leaner, everything else being equal. This is because there would be less fuel available in the fuel bowl. The Duracon float setting must be higher to compensate for this condition. Dry Setting for Duracon Center Hung Float: The primary side setting is .3125" (5/16"), measured with the fuel bowl inverted, at the middle of the float. The second- ary side setting is .3750" (3/8"), measured with the fuel bowl inverted, at the middle of the float (back side). Dry Setting for Duracon Side Hung Float: The primary side setting is .2188" (7/32"), measured with the fuel bowl inverted, at the toe of the float. The secondary side setting is .3125" (5/16"), measured with the fuel bowl inverted, at the toe of the float. Wet Setting for Duracon Float: Refer to “Wet Float Setting”, discussed previously.

@Jetsetr @Orlando76 Thanks so much for the help guys. Truly great of you to take the time. Few points: mechanic is a marine engine mechanic, that’s where it is now but he won’t get to it for probably 10 days. I trust him, knows his stuff. BUT I may go there this weekend and at least take some pics for myself and this thread. I wasn’t there when my cousin did the carb kit. He knows engines pretty well but yes, could have made an error of course. Ignition is stock, plugs, points etc. Tried a few years back to use upgraded wires ((Accell?) and ran poorly, went back to stock wires. When the idle and general performance gradually deteriorated last season I admit I didn’t think of ignition components. Probably should have swapped out wires, point, condenser first instead of this world of hurt I find myself in. And yes, our season is very short, 2 1/2 - 3 months, most of it in wetsuits. Ya Dave, you have to be really careful on the fuel line nuts. A perfect fitting wrench is the only way to go. In fact I’m going to check that it wasn’t cross threaded! (gasp) The minimum will be to go to the boat in my mechanics years and take some pics with the bowls off. Hopefully I won’t need new gaskets to do just that. What do you think about switching the bowls to external adjustment capability? Thanks again for the help and tic, tic, tic. I can hear the season moving along goddammit.

@Jetsetr @Orlando76 agree, no external adjustments. The gas is FLOWING from the primary side. Nothing (yet) from the secondaries. Any documents / videos you could point me to would be great. Haven’t found anything yet. Is it as simple as taking off the 4 bolts that hold each side on? Gotta be careful of those transfer tubes that crossover to the other side. Any info is really appreciated. Thanks fellas.

My 95 Nautique was running rough-ish at the end of last year and decided to do a carb kit. Got it all done and started it up to what sounded like a Topfuel dragster on the staging line it was that rough. Couldn’t hold and idle less than 1500 rpm and it was loud and tons of grey smoke and burnt oil coming out. I figured it was the fogging oil (hopefully) shut it down and talked to mechanic who said did you set the float levels? Can’t find those screws on my model of carb. Any ideas?

Who’s the driver? That hull doesn’t move an inch.