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sharkbait

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Everything posted by sharkbait

  1. Everthing. 2000 Ski Nautique GT40 Just got done replacing rear main oil seal and damper plate. Had the "rocks in a can" noise only between 700-900 rpm when in gear. Replaced oils, filters and impeller. Polished, waxed, deep cleaned carpet and vinyl. With a heated garage and my old job experience of turning wrench's years ago I actually enjoy it and it gets me through the winter. Parts by Skidim always.
  2. Some of you that are very interested in grass carp might want to visit our water districts website and read up on our history of our use with these fish. (DLWID.org) Check out our research page. Our 680 acre lake became heavily infested with weeds in the 70's and 80"s. We got approval to to use grass carp to save our lake which was almost unusable for the public. 10,000 steril carp were planted in 1986 and 17,000 more in 1987 and a final drop of 5,000 in 1993. The lake became weed free as of 94/95. It took 7-8 years to get rid the mass of weeds. The lake today is still weed free. We are in the process of appealling for more grass carp. We have very few left today. We are working on rules changes in order to comply with Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife present regulations that got changed from after our initial plantings thru the influence of the warm water fishing groups.
  3. Just curious if anyone hear has replaced the hull hugger muffler in their super quiet 97-01 ski nautique boat with a fiberglass y style fitting such as the Centek #1200415. If so how did it affect the sound levels at idle and most important skiing speeds? Did you get a little bit of the V8 rumble without it being to too loud or obnoxious. Thanks
  4. We have been using a accusink course for about 16 years straight. Its working better than ever since we finally found a very small fishing hook hole a few years ago. With your system under water 24/7 the pressure underwater will push water into your air system even on the smallest of leaks. Few months later you can not raise your course or worse the lakes underwater pressure cannot deflate the bladders and push the water in the line and not let some or all of your course down. Big pain in the rear. I do have most of the original directions. If you send me a fax # I will fax them to you. We use a harbor frieght 110v compressor onshore. Best advice I can give you if you get this up and running is to install a low pressure regulator and 30lb gauge. Never push more than 10-12lbs pressure to raise the course. All our problems with leaks would happen when we got in a hurry and crank up the pressure. Tubing would blow off bladders or bladders would pop. Sub weight with ballast should equal 40lbs dry when filling them up on shore (thanks for fellow BOS for that info.) Still have lots of extra tubing and parts if interested. Good Luck
  5. thager- thanks for the info. We use a regulator after the air compressor to keep the psi at 10-11 lbs max. We wait the extra few minutes for the course to rise instead of jumping the pressure up to get the course up faster. I spent to many hours years ago bleeding water out of the air lines and subs after blowing a line off and not catching it that day. Thanks again
  6. Does anyone know what the correct amount of weight of sand or pea gravel was used in the original setup of a accusink submarine or have the original directions on a accusink system. I remember filling the sand into plastic bags inside the submarines on a scale to a certain amount of weight 17 years ago but can not remember the correct weight of the subs and sand. Mine need some fine tuning as some of my buoys ( correct size ) sit too high ( loss of sand ) I believe. Thanks
  7. JC I have a 2000 Ski Nautique that I installed a 4 vent heater system in a few years ago and was up against the same problem. I installed a center of the dash vent at the bottom of the windshield below the black dash pad by holesawing from underneath the dash. For windshield protection I cut a piece of 3/4 plywood taped up with rags and placed it in between the windshield and the fiberglass panel. Then I drilled from below a small pilot hole in the fiberglass to make sure I was centered on top. (2nd time perfect) Then from below with my shop vac running I used the correct hole saw to cut out the hole for the adjustable vent. (make sure your pilot drill bit in the hole saw is only sticking out a half inch or so) Hope this helps RW PS This site is awesome!
  8. Iam interested in your smart timers. Please contact me at 541-992-5131
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