JackQ

@ Horton, You forgot one other attribute that needs to be worked out before an electric ski boat will be practical, Weight! The motor will be much lighter than a V8 lump, but a 1,000- 1,750 pound battery pack will have a significant impact to wake quality.

The underlining cause was the wind yesterday, that resulted in the women’s category series #3 being postponed/cancelled yesterday and being pushed/ rerun delaying everything subsequent to women’s slalom.

I use the recreation mode so I can practice a few tenths faster than actuals. I don’t feel any difference between the two.

You need to fix the play in your steering system 1st, the tab is only to adjust the load. The wheel should not have +1” play before the rudder moves. It can be the cable, the steering head, and if you have a tilt wheel the joints in the mechanism , and the “steering clamp” ball joint that secures the steering cable to the stringer in the bilge. All too often when folks replace the cable, they neglect the steering block which can have significant slop after a few years. I replaced all of the above, and my 2009 steers like new, with no play

@Horton, I agree to a point. When I was younger and my best pass that I could run was 35 and ran 22s, 28s and lots of 32, I would ski 10 sometimes 12 passes in a set. Maybe it was being 25 years younger, maybe easier passes or a bit of both. Although you are giving it all when let say 32 is your best pass, it still does not have the load and more extremes that 38, 39 and beyond has.

I think there are a number of factors that come into play the most significant 1. Line lengths you practice at. 2. Age 3. Physical Condition. 4. Number of passes For me at 69 years old, in what I consider good physical condition, I typically need a day of rest between skiing day, usually one sometimes two sets. Shorter line pass take a greater toll, if I ran 28s and 32s, I could ski every day. 32, 35, 38, 39, 39, 39, 38 or 32, 35, 38, 38, 39, 39, 39, 38 are typical sets. I am pretty much gassed when I am done, and more often than not do not run a 2nd set.

@disland I bought the bungee from Amazon, the two sizes are 1/8” and 5/32. There are multiple vendors and lengths available, just read the listing carefully as some will say 1/8” but will in fine print say 3mm. Close but not the same.

As @lpskier recommended just try with and without a wing. The wing does more than just helping to slow the ski, it also help pull the tail around. What works for one skier and ski, will not be the best for others. Do what ever make you ski better and/or consistently, use it. Heck, I accidentally put one side of my wing upside down and did not know it. I ran my personal best and a National record before another skier noticed it. It may be mental, I kept it that way even though when experimenting back and forth did not seem to make a significant difference Additionally if you have less than 6 degree, you may be hurting yourself, possibly literally. In extreme situations where the tip is digging in and lifting the tail, a low angle wing can tend to lift the tail further with unfortunate results. Don’t ask me why I know this.

I have changed both my overlays this year, one with a tear the other with delimitation. The more recent version do not seem to hold up as well as the older version. I understand D3 is testing an improved version. I typically replace the laces every 2 months of so. I bought 10 feet of both sizes for around $15-$20 or so. They lose their elasticity relatively quickly if you pull them tight, which I do.

I do not that this is a USAWS requirement. The “currency” requirement is likely either a safesport and/or Insurance carrier dictate.

Not providing an update of the “Update on Network disruption” is telling in itself. Especially since the issue is highly unlikely related to a network issue.

I don't understand as a former Chief Information Officer how a backup (daughter or granddaughter) is not available to establish/restore the DB or a separate failover cluster and/or snapshots available. I hope they are learning to prevent future failure/ vulnerabilities.

I always use a large flat file ( 1-1.5 inches fine toothed), it takes off the rough edges, some of the matching marks and all the pain/powder coat. You may be surprised at some to the imperfections that are on some of the surfaces. I have done dozens this way without issues.

I skied in saltwater for years. Anti seize help in fresh and salt but is not a panacea. I drilled out the holes/treads and installed stainless steel “timesert”. Never had issue after, before even with anti seize if I didnt take out the screws every three week they would break off. You can drill out the broken screws and put in time serts or helicoils (not as good) It can be done without a drill press but not easily.

My wife and I will both be skiing. Plan on staying for 3 days and doing some judging.

If you are on the heavy side of your current ski’s range, try a bigger ski. I was according to Goode to light for my 67” XTR at 34mph, tried a 68 but was too large to get sufficient tight turns at shorter rope lengths. I went from 8-9 degree of wing to 7. And after experimenting ended up with .005 increased depth. As other have recommended, holding on to the handle (not releasing early) is even more important at 32, so if you are letting go early at 34, you may suffer. The only other change I made consciously made was to get/keep wide for the gate and not add too much load before the 1st wake. As many things are in skiing, it is more mental than real, if you think it harder or you need to pull harder, shorter or longer; you are going to have issues. Just wack yourself in the head with the handle twice and ski.

@Horton, I strongly agree with your comments on drivers that essentially dont drive skiers. In the South Region this is not much of a problem, but when I skied in the Eastern Region, I was about to be pulled in a Tournament (In late July) and the driver said it was only the 2nd time that year that he pulled a skier (Practice or Tournament). I asked how well he would expect me to ski if it was only my 2nd set of the year. He said, not very well at all. I replied why should I expect his driving to be any better. Needless to say, not exactly well received. There are a lot of good/great drivers that have not been given enough opportunity to drive in tournaments for lack of an “reputation” ShurePath will help remove the mediocre and have objective indication of those who are good.

I have it and use it in practice, it has helped my driving and those who pull me. For tournaments it removes: 1. I skied bad the driver sucks 2. So and so had a high score because the driver was weaving. It also has shown that a some what out of tolerance boat path is not necessarily a skier killer, and at longer line lengths is irrelevant. I have run a number of passes with some -30s (sometimes more) at some or many of the buoys, on all but my hardest pass.

Looks solid but I would consider and additional connection laterally. Much of the peak load on the pylon from the side, particularly as the rope gets shorter. Certainly with your solution the pylon is not going to be move for and aft. Brilliant out of the box thinking.

@Broussard I stand corrected. I did not know they used that method, as dielectric constant of ethanol is 10X of gasoline it would make a significant difference. However, Mastercraft may have picked an elegant and complicated (and likely expensive) solution for a simple problem. The “old school” mechanical sending units were prone to fail occasionally ( I have had one fail in 25+ years) but they operate very consistently vice the problematic issue many MC owner have been experiencing.

I have to call BS on” using a consistent grade of fuel with consistent level of ethanol (or lack thereof) will result in a more accurate reading.” The grad of fuel about of ethanol should have no effect on a “fuel level reading” it should be accurate if you put water or motor oil, it does not measure density.

This happened to my 2009. Even with the engine out, it is a tight job. Cleaned and roughed up the fiberglass. I noticed that the Stainless bracket that is “attached” to the hull does not have the same contour as the hulls, so I bought some Totalboat polyester structural repair putty and put where the bracket goes, with wax paper under the bracket. This made a good contact area under the bracket, then put down 4 or so layers of S glass fiberglass (stronger than the E glass used on boats) in about a 12” square area. When fully cured, I placed the bracket, plyon etc in placed. Then I put a few layers of glass over the two sides of the bracket. When cured, I then removed the plyon, and put down about 20 layers in alternate directions of the s glass cloth. Replaced the cutless bearing (do it when easy), reinstalled everything and aligned the engine to shaft. Maybe over engineered the solution, but do not want to do again. 3 years later it is still solid.

I was one of the Judges he ran and was credited with 5@41 both rounds. The upload for the online scores sometimes is quirky.

From my perspective as a Judge when you have video, you need to make a call as if there was no video. Then video review can overrule it. I have been a judge and video review judge on a couple of cash pro events. When tower judge, I would make the call, then suggest a video review if I was not 100% certain. At the Masters, the judges should have made a call, then without video that call correct or not would have to stand.

The slack line gate rule rational was discussed by @Bruce_Butterfieldand by the fact that the geometry (IE distance and angle is different for #6 to gate than other buoys to the next respective boat guide.