JackQ

@ Horton, You forgot one other attribute that needs to be worked out before an electric ski boat will be practical, Weight! The motor will be much lighter than a V8 lump, but a 1,000- 1,750 pound battery pack will have a significant impact to wake quality.

The underlining cause was the wind yesterday, that resulted in the women’s category series #3 being postponed/cancelled yesterday and being pushed/ rerun delaying everything subsequent to women’s slalom.

I use the recreation mode so I can practice a few tenths faster than actuals. I don’t feel any difference between the two.

You need to fix the play in your steering system 1st, the tab is only to adjust the load. The wheel should not have +1” play before the rudder moves. It can be the cable, the steering head, and if you have a tilt wheel the joints in the mechanism , and the “steering clamp” ball joint that secures the steering cable to the stringer in the bilge. All too often when folks replace the cable, they neglect the steering block which can have significant slop after a few years. I replaced all of the above, and my 2009 steers like new, with no play

@Horton, I agree to a point. When I was younger and my best pass that I could run was 35 and ran 22s, 28s and lots of 32, I would ski 10 sometimes 12 passes in a set. Maybe it was being 25 years younger, maybe easier passes or a bit of both. Although you are giving it all when let say 32 is your best pass, it still does not have the load and more extremes that 38, 39 and beyond has.

I think there are a number of factors that come into play the most significant 1. Line lengths you practice at. 2. Age 3. Physical Condition. 4. Number of passes For me at 69 years old, in what I consider good physical condition, I typically need a day of rest between skiing day, usually one sometimes two sets. Shorter line pass take a greater toll, if I ran 28s and 32s, I could ski every day. 32, 35, 38, 39, 39, 39, 38 or 32, 35, 38, 38, 39, 39, 39, 38 are typical sets. I am pretty much gassed when I am done, and more often than not do not run a 2nd set.

@disland I bought the bungee from Amazon, the two sizes are 1/8” and 5/32. There are multiple vendors and lengths available, just read the listing carefully as some will say 1/8” but will in fine print say 3mm. Close but not the same.

As @lpskier recommended just try with and without a wing. The wing does more than just helping to slow the ski, it also help pull the tail around. What works for one skier and ski, will not be the best for others. Do what ever make you ski better and/or consistently, use it. Heck, I accidentally put one side of my wing upside down and did not know it. I ran my personal best and a National record before another skier noticed it. It may be mental, I kept it that way even though when experimenting back and forth did not seem to make a significant difference Additionally if you have less than 6 degree, you may be hurting yourself, possibly literally. In extreme situations where the tip is digging in and lifting the tail, a low angle wing can tend to lift the tail further with unfortunate results. Don’t ask me why I know this.

I have changed both my overlays this year, one with a tear the other with delimitation. The more recent version do not seem to hold up as well as the older version. I understand D3 is testing an improved version. I typically replace the laces every 2 months of so. I bought 10 feet of both sizes for around $15-$20 or so. They lose their elasticity relatively quickly if you pull them tight, which I do.

I do not that this is a USAWS requirement. The “currency” requirement is likely either a safesport and/or Insurance carrier dictate.

Not providing an update of the “Update on Network disruption” is telling in itself. Especially since the issue is highly unlikely related to a network issue.

I don't understand as a former Chief Information Officer how a backup (daughter or granddaughter) is not available to establish/restore the DB or a separate failover cluster and/or snapshots available. I hope they are learning to prevent future failure/ vulnerabilities.

I always use a large flat file ( 1-1.5 inches fine toothed), it takes off the rough edges, some of the matching marks and all the pain/powder coat. You may be surprised at some to the imperfections that are on some of the surfaces. I have done dozens this way without issues.

I skied in saltwater for years. Anti seize help in fresh and salt but is not a panacea. I drilled out the holes/treads and installed stainless steel “timesert”. Never had issue after, before even with anti seize if I didnt take out the screws every three week they would break off. You can drill out the broken screws and put in time serts or helicoils (not as good) It can be done without a drill press but not easily.

My wife and I will both be skiing. Plan on staying for 3 days and doing some judging.