jp

Thanks everyone

I have been searching the site using the search function for the D3 ARC-S settings that were discussed for a 67" (not the stock settings), then someone converted those settings to a 66", but I cannot find them. Can someone either post them, or direct me to the right thread? Thanks in advance.

I have a 66’ D3 Fusion in excellent condition. PM me if you are interested

Good insight (as usual). Looking at giving one a try. Not sure about size. 5'7", 160#, 28-32 off (working on 35), 32-34mph. Currently on 66" D3. Thoughts?

I recently purchased the HRT. Was using a D3 T-factor with Wiley rear. Double boot user since 8th grade, and I am 44 now. Was looking to try something with a the ability to move/lift heel a bit, especially with my limited back-ankle flexibility (2 breaks, unrelated to skiing) and hopefully allowing me to be more balanced over the ski, as I can be notorious for settling in on the back of my ski as I move through the course. Still have the front D3. A few points... 1. Was a much easier of a transition than expected, as it took only a few sets to get used to. 2. I ended up having to remove the HRT from the actual plate and move it up a set of holes to get closer to the back binding, so the binding pad actually presses against the front boot now, but there is still a gap between the front boot and my toes. I am a size 9.5 shoe. 3. I cannot comment on the kicking in, as I still get up with both feet in. 4. I like the configuration, as I feel I am able to get a better stance (taller) at the start of the pass, and also I seem to transition to a better stance with better weight distribution during the pass (but I have to remember to do this). 5. I am keeping this set up, or said another way, I really like it. 6. One thing to note, I have not crashed yet using this set up, so I cannot comment on the release.

Thanks. I appreciate the options. That Soda Lake really seems like a quick and painless option.

Looks like I may be relocating to Colorado with the family at the 'request' of my company. Hoping to have some ski club options, or even 'pay-for-pull' options available. Anyone know of any ski sites in CO? I would probably be living in the Douglas County area. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks

Looking for some feedback, as I have always found it helpful here. For the past 9 years I have have had the flexibility with my job to ski on a private site with a course 2x/week on weekdays May - Sept (ski club where I pay membership fee, then sets. Driver provided). That has now changed due to my job change, and looks to be this way for the foreseeable future. I have accepted that a majority, if not all, of my skiing will take place on a public lake, early morning open water sessions on weekends and occasional family vacations (no course). I am 42 years old, wife/3kids, good physical shape, and I ski at 34mph into/through 32 off regularly. I use a 66" D3 Fusion. With this change, I am thinking about changing skis to be more in line with my new focus. 32 - 34mph, open water, hopefully calm water, with occasional boat rollers. Instead of making 6 turns and stopping, making 30 turns. Thoughts on possible change of ski options?

Anyone?

Was hoping someone could steer me in the right direction. I need to replace my wife's T-Factor cords (lower and upper). I could just order from D3, but she wants red or lime green. Any suggestions? Also, anyone know the approximate diameter/stretch? Thanks

If WSM focused on what miniaquabat is suggesting, they would be out of business, which would not be a good thing IMO. When most people start reading WSM, they probably have never been exposed to a slalom course. But without WSM, my guess is a lot of people on this site would not have taken the next steps toward slalom course skiing. I was given a subscription to WSM when I was 10 years old, skiing on public lakes for the next 20 years. I finally flipped to the classifieds, called a Florida ski school, booked the trip, learned the course, bought a MC skier 19. The mag has value.

Save your money - you are on a ski that can get you into short line. Get coaching, then get some more coaching. In my opinion, having been in a very similar position, you may pick up a ball or two with the feel of a new ski. Or, you can get good coaching and ski better at the line/buoy count you are at, and then advance rapidly.

I am no Nate Smith - not even on my best day and his worst day. But I'm on my 2nd D3 (Nomad RC, Fusion) and absolutely would recommend their skis to anyone. Well made product, VERY good service, easy to ski.

Just bought a 2008 Malibu LXI. Very good condition, but the interior needs a little clean up. Any recommendations on what to use for a first-time, thourough cleaning? Also, what do most people use on the boat when wiping the exterior down? I have seen vinegar/water in a spray bottle, but any other tips? Thanks

In 2000 I went with my parents to an in-water boat show to make sure they did not buy anything with a BIGGER wake than the 21' Celebrity cuddy cabin boat we were skiing behind. I was also 5 months away from getting married and still did not purchase a place to live. While listening to the salesman try to sell them a 23' Crowline, I saw a 1998 MC Skier 19 in the shop, still dusty. I interrupted the salesman and asked him about it. To quiet me down so he could continue his sale, he said that boat was about $16k with 40 hours on it. I wrote him a check for a deposit, my parents bought some other behemoth, and I let my fiance know we were the proud owner of a real ski boat. She was speechless. Still have the boat and the wife.

Looking for some feedback on 2002 MC 197. Family has outgrown MC skier 19. Looking at used 2002 197 w under 300 hrs. Will keep and use boat on public lake. Boat will be used for early AM slalom sets by me, sometimes in the public slalom course. Then young kids skiing, tubing, and I would guess at some point introducing the kids to wake boarding. Not willing to move to v drive, but need to make jump to open bow, wider boat. How does this boat perform in regards to wake, semi rough water, etc. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks - Jim

Sorry to hear about your incident. I was in Cancun with work and contacted Scott for quick set. The guy worked hard to find some good water and set up a ski for me to use. Not the best conditions, but I was just looking to get out on the water and get away from my co-workers. It served its purpose.

Anyone have expereince with the new HO Attack bindings? More specific, how do they stack up up D3 T-Factor?

Thanks for the feedback - very helpful, and sometimes amusing. One more question. As mentioned, I ski mostly on a private site, but only at my scheduled times, so sometimes the conditions are not pristine - rollers off shore if we had a lot of rain, wind chop if the wind comes out ofthe West, etc. Is there a benefit to going with the deeper riding X-7 to get the most of my limited time on the water which often has less than ideal conditions? I get to ski about 2x/week, 2 sets each time out.

Thanks for feedback so far. Any thoughts on the X-7 by itself, or compared to the Fusion?

I am looking for opinions on D3 X7 vs. D3 Fusion. I am planning to purchase 1 of these 2 skis, used. I currently ski a 66" D3 Nomad RC. Ski at 34mph running 22-28' off consistenly, 32'off much of the time, never past 3 at 35' off. Not skiing tournaments currently, just 2x/wk on a private site in Illinois. Any thoughts on either of these skies, or both? Also, my decision may be partially influenced by the fact I can get the X7 about $200 cheaper than the Fusion. Either way, any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

Looking for a the older, underneath mount KD fin box and fin. Have a CR7 that I want to ski on, but cannot find the fin box and the fin was trashed years ago. Thanks.

Currently skiing a 2007 66' D3 Nomad RC and running into 32' off consistently. Not skiing tournaments. I have an opportunity to purchase a slightly used 66' D3 z7, but not sure I want to spend the money. Any thoughts on what I would be gaining moving to the Z7? Is there a significant difference? Anyone that has input based on experience with this sort of transistion would be appreciated. Thanks.

Well, thanks for all of the advise. I ended up calling Darren at Wiley's. He assured me the binding would be 'easy' to put back together after I made the necessary adjustment he recommended. I ended up removing the screws (6 of them) from the back 1/2 of the binding to access the heel pad. From there I lifted the heel pad and glued down a piece of hard foam I cut, like the base of a flip-flop sandal. Then it was time to assemble the binding, including new holes for the overlays. The binding if fine now and I accomplished what I needed to, however I have learned a valuable lesson: Never start taking apart a Wiley's binding at 10pm knowing you have to ski at 7am the next morning.

I recently made the switch from double Approach boots to a Reflex with Wiley rear. When I was using the Approach boots I placed a hard foam wedge under the foot bed and above the plate of the rear boot - a heel lift. I have limited flexibility in my right (rear) ankle and this helped me get in a more balanced stance. I also rotated the boot out slightly.  Now that you have a little background, I have a few questions...  How do you add a heel lift to the Wiley boot without taking the entire bottom off? If I remove all the screws it seems the entire binding will need to be rebuilt and it looks 'challenging'. Can I velcro the lift in? Adhesive?  What advice do Reflex users have for initial distance from tail set up - same, back slightly, etc.? I already rotated the Wiley binding to match the previous set up and it seems to work well.  Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks  JimÂ