DanE

When you say slam it to the right and it should be flush with the right side of the rudder do you mean the back edge of the tab moves to the left?

Yes, very.

The main reason you have to lower release tension is the Vapor boot creates a much longer lever to where the front hinges in a release due to its long flat (and stiff sole). Reflex boot hinges from under the ball of your foot.

When shopping for Mitutoyos make sure you visit their website to check if the store you buy from is a verified retalier. Lots of clever made China copies out there that may or may not work well in damp condittions. The coolant proof digimatic reads well even with moist on ski and hands, I use the regular and have not had any issues. Cheap digital is useless if water is involved.

@skialex Advanced long and shallow, round tail. Tweak DFT and front boot to your liking as they can make or brake the setup.

Servo speed is more than enough with PP. If you go crazy with background settings in Zbox it's easy to get an old GT-40 to be more responsiive than a DI 6.2 .So why is it not the same?Try patent infringement.

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@Cent Does it continue to leak below the minimum or does it stay that way? It's pretty normal with a low level when you got a heater, don't think you can expect the level to stay at the top mark as the expansion volume becomes insufficient when a heater is installed. @Jody_Seal ?

@vtmecheng One possibility is the hose between fuel control cell and rail is failing internally. Inner rubber tube bunching up and acts like a check valve.

If you don't want to go down the rabbit hole and upgrade software to the latest Stargazer and add Zbox just switch to PerfectPass Classic and call it good. You should have the software already, very common problem you describe with Stargazer. Classic skis really good, Stargazer is just strange and was never approved for tournament use.

For all of you Zbox tweakers I thought I might share something I discovered while using Zbox ( club boat has Zero Off now, 2017 was the last year I used Zbox). Had every aspect of the hardware in order (power supply, return spring, pucks etc). Just for the heck of it I set all the background settings to 0 and drove the boat through the course without a skier. I totally expected a constant speed through the pass but that was far from the case. Can't recall the details now but rpms (and of course speed) was slowly shifting up and down, somewhat in line with the notorious fast entrance and a slow buoy #2 followed by a boat that runs fast from buoy 2 to 4. So there is some inherent programming that is the cause of this behaviour. Can't remember which version but it was the latest in 2017.

@Wish I know you have a fairly short setup in your lake. Be prepared to tweak settings a great deal before you're satisfied. It's doable, just not plug and play.

@slmskrs You got the grasp of most of it except the BALL 3 setting. Ball 3 represents buoy #4. The most important time to watch is to buoy #2 (BALL 1). If you have a slow time at 2 the pass will not feel good. Once you got good times to buouy #2 it's easy to tweak BALL 3 and B4 to EXIT. Keep in mind that trends highly affects the times, for example you have a slow time to buoy #1 (entrance speed) and a good time to #2- that means you are going above set speed when passing #2 and heading for a hot time to #3. If you correct the hot time to 3 with a lower BALL 3 setting you will have a boat that gasses you hard out of #1 and boggs down after #2, need to make corrections from before and at the entrance of the course. Pretty much like skiing? Based on what you already know you will figure it out.

The real danger with gasoline and sparks starts when temperatures goes well below freezing. Thats when the fumes are in such a compressed state that there is room for oxygen in the container. At some level in the can there will be an ideal mixture for ignition. At hot summer temps there is only fumes in the cans, no oxygen no ignition.

@MDB1056 @155 You could go with a 66" GTR no problem, would probably be the " correct " size even.