roda

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Our situation is a different than a club site in that we all live on the same lake and all own ski boats already so boat ownership by everyone involved is well understood. You can't ski by yourself so we are often just offering to use another boat because we used the other guys last time. What I didn't included in my original post is that we are considering going together to buy a wake/surf boat (not selling any of the ski boats). Afternoons on our semi-private lake get busy with jet-skis & other users so good time to have group fun surfing etc. It's more of a group activity so the keeping track of hours thing becomes interesting especially when kids bring friends etc. From the above comments it sounds like just a good set of ground rules and notebook to track use as best as possible would work as we are all friends already. Still use an LLC for insurance and ownership documentation etc. Not sure where to park the fuel truck. Thanks

A group of us are contemplating purchasing a boat together. We all live on the same lake so that makes logistics fairly easy. Looking for advice on contracts or by-laws that have worked well for others. Assuming we will setup an LLC. Thanks in advance and if there are old posts on the topic I would appreciate the link (tried searching but came up with nothing).

There are plenty of courses on public access lakes in central FL if you are willing to tow your boat down here for a couple weeks. Lakes are empty on weekdays in the winter.

I have Radar Vapor bindings and the front foot has rotated to the right to the full extent of the slots on the plate. RFF so pinky toe moving right and heal moving left. 3/4 inch of travel @ toe. Have not skied regularly over the past few years so just left it there as it didn’t feel uncomfortable. Have been skiing quite a bit more this year and getting back to consistency in course running 22off pass @ 32. After 3 sets this week I decided to center the binding and offside (1 ball) turn is a mess. Ski stopping in turn etc. Question: leave it centered or take it back to right ? Or take it back right and slowly move it back to center as I adjust my form? Pro’s/Con’s of either method please. Thanks

Does anyone have a MasterCraft 197 trailer in the Orlando area that I can measure bunk and axle dimensions? I am shopping for a trailer and have quotes from Boatmate, Phoenix, and Platinum custom aluminum trailers in Ocala. The Platinum is over $1k cheaper than the other two but I would like to bring them accurate measurements from a factory trailer to get the axle placement close for the build. Or if anyone has a used 197 trailer for sale I would be interested. Any other experiences or comments welcome. Thanks

Forget the moving camera mounts, a very high resolution camera with 120fps and software on-board to auto zoom and track the skier with a fixed lens is what I want. No moving parts.

+1 for Progressive also. Neighbors 197 slung a prop blade after hitting a turtle in the course and Progressive gave him more than it cost him to repair the hull damage. When renewal time came up for my 197 I switched from Ski-Safe and saved over $100/yr.

@ShaneH: I didn't write them down but they were all spot on or only a couple thousands off of these: 2.51 / 6.84 / 0.755. Started with front binding at 28 5/8 and then moved it forward one hole (didn't remeasure) after 1st set.

After 6 years on an D3 RCx and not making much progress (slow learner) I am trying a new ski to see if it will help add some consistency to my runs. I am 5'7" @ 155lbs and when I was trying skis back in '08 was on the bubble between 65" & 66" skis. I opted for the 65" but never have been very consistent. I run 22 @ 34 somewhat consistently but feel like the ski has a small sweet spot. I picked up a 66" '13 Radar Vice-C thinking the longer ski might help w/ some stability. First few passes I can hardly turn on my off side. Ski is set up per stock #'s from what I could find from Rossi/Rini posting. After 1st set I moved the bindings forward a hole (Strada dual plate) and it turns faster but not really stable. I know I need a more rides but looking for any advice to speed up the process when running a longer ski when you are on the bubble size wise. I have not skied it with the wing as I haven't been using one on the D3. Thanks in advance for any advice. -Rod A. PS: where can you find fin/binding settings for the Vice? The Radar site gets an 'A' for artistic content but can't seem to find the info for the skis.

The US Navy has a 3000' x 51' indoor pool for rent. Even has a tow cable system in place. Call your congressman and suggest an economic stimulus project to widen it. http://blogs.defensenews.com/intercepts/2013/07/keepin-it-cool-with-the-international-submarine-races/ http://www.navsea.navy.mil/nswc/carderock/pub/tours.aspx

Wonder if this would work better than a tracker? soloshot.com/2012-soloshot

I live on an 80 acre lake in central FL that has had the water level dropping over the past year due to the lack of rain. What is the best guess on how much water (and pump HP) it would take to maintain 80 acres at a fixed level if you had zero rain and were losing water from just evaporation? We understand that we also would lose some back to ground seepage but are just looking for rough orders of magnitude to start with. Thanks

boarditup: Acme suggested: 843-13.00X12.00VL3B SPLINE .080 cup three blade nibral prop. This is a '05 197 non-slot w/ MCX.

On my '05 MC197 I have had some vibration that seems to be getting worse over time. It all started after a turtle strike. I had the prop (stock 4 blade) re-conditioned by OJ. Still had a slight vibration and found that the strut did not seem to be centered. Had MC dealer replace strut and now the shaft lines up but the runout when checked with a dial indicator is between .008 (near trans) and .013 (near shaft seal). My neighbors identical boat is .005 at most. I put his prop (identical) on and almost all of the vibration went away so I am going to buy a new Acme 3 blade. Should I also try to improve the shaft runout? What is within spec? Is it possible to get it to .001 or less? Thanks

My '05 MCX did the same thing. Pulled them and had an aluminum airboat shop install new aluminum plugs in all locations. They cut the plugs from aluminum stock. A neighbors '06 MCX had same issue, I cut an aluminum disk the size of a quarter and used JB weld putty to hold it in place. It has held for almost a year now without issue.

http://gizmodo.com/5830571/new-technology-tricks-water-into-thinking-your-ship-isnt-there

From this years boat parade: http://lh6.ggpht.com/_W3O0OE7u2O8/TQ6cZxsIuSI/AAAAAAAAABE/C53KhleGu5Y/s640/Boat2010.jpg

I used 3M-77 about 4 months ago and have not had a problem with it releasing in the Florida heat. I also placed a few insulation fasteners in the motor box. Basically a nail with a small plate that I epoxied to the fiberglass. You then install the insulation and a clip goes over the nail to give you a mechanical fastener in case the adhesive ever fails. See here: http://www.sheetmetalequip.com/DuroDyne/mechfasteners.htm

Thanks, I found one 15 off pass @ fifteenoff.com. It is interesting how early Seth transitions from pull to pre-turn and that he is in the air when he does it. He is also turning a lot later around the ball than I would have expected. Makes me think that every video is going to be a little different style and not so easy to use as a comparison to our own passes.

Where can I find videos of "perfect" form at 15/22/28 @34 that I can download and compare my own skiing to? I think it might be helpful to watch yourself side by side against better form.

Love it, I will order one. Header suggestion: "Inner Game of Slalom" or "Inner Game of Waterskiing". Would be polite to get permission from Tim Gallwey first.

2005 MC 197 non-slot I thought I had a bent drive shaft because I could see it wobling at the packing seal and if I held a screwdriver tip against it while in gear at idle you could see and feel that it wasn't true. I even checked it without the prop installed and it still wobbled. When I pulled the shaft and rolled it on a granite countertop it appears to be true. I hit a turtle last year and had the prop re-done by OJ. I'm wondering if it also bent the skeg? I was going to re-install the shaft and check the alignment but I have some questions on how to verify it. I understand that you install the shaft and check the coupler to transmission around the coupler in 4 places with a feeler guage. What is the procedure before you measure as when the coupler is tight there is zero clearance? Do you start to tighten the bolts and when you get close to tight but can still get the feeler guage in do the measurement and alignment? After alignment you then pull it tight?  If the skeg is bent is aligning the engine to match it  a problem as long as the shaft is relatively straight throught the hull exit opening?  Also, the washer that holds the o-rings in the shaft seal wore a grove in the shaft. It's as if the engine is lower than it should be and pulling the seal and short hose section down. I'm thinking I should order a new washer but is there a more flexible alternative to the short piece of hose which would alow the seal to float easier?  And lastly, does the engine need the alignment regularly adjusted over time? If so what is causing it to move, motor mounts wearing out? Thanks Rod A.Â

New waterproof Sanyo on the way: Â http://gizmodo.com/5605808/sanyos-new-waterproof-hd-camcorder-more-clarity-under-the-sea

Thanks guys. I'm in the Orlando area so if anyone knows of a shop here please pass it on. Worse case its only a $75 hit if they don't do it right and I end up going new.

I have a bent drive shaft on my '05 MC 197. I think it happened when I took out a large turtle. Had the prop redone but still had some vibration so I checked and at low rpm you can see that it is not straight. Can you have a drive shaft straightened or are you better off buying a new one? Thanks