gator867

Thanks @paul. I did review that thread. It seems on the 2021 trailer (and maybe newer ones) they've added a 3rd set of bunks just about where that roller sits in a forward and downward facing v-config. This would make putting that roller in the location shown not possible (or totally ineffective). Interestingly enough though, I was speaking with someone the other day who is way more knowledgeable in this than I am about a boat and I asked him about this trailer issue. He claimed that in his opinion the issue came more from taking the boat OFF the trailer rather than putting it on. He said that if you attempted to take the boat off without having the trailer deep enough before unhooking the bow strap that when you powered the boat off it put a lot of pressure on the bow and the trailer bunks and ripped the carpet and therefore began eating into the fiberglass on the hull. He said he has owned several 200's and SN's with boatmate trailers and that as long as he was careful taking the boats off he never had an issue with tearing the bunk carpet thereby preventing the gouging of the fiberglass. Take this for what it's worth. Just relaying what he said. I have no way to verify this. At least not yet.

Thanks @dan1166 this is what my friend with the 2021 SN 200 has begun to do after repairing his chines. He says it seems to be working. I was curious if they've fixed the issue in the newer trailers. If they have maintained the same bunk design with 3 pairs of bunks there really isn't any place to put a keel roller where it would ever contact the hull. Seems to me with this floating method that having the crash pads would make executing it much easier than having the bow roller.

@jjackkrashthanks but I am looking at a 2023 SN 200. I have a friend that has a 2021 SN 200 and a boat mate trailer and the issue is still occurring on his boat.

Wanted to bump this back up to the top to see if anyone knew if there was a final fix for this. I'm looking at new boats and Boatmate appears to be the trailer of choice for Nautique dealers in my area.

For the pullout I put myself behind the boat just left of the trough and look for the right pre-gate and one-ball. As those two start to cross I will make my move to pull out. I like this because I find it works for me at all my line lengths (-28 to -35 at 34mph) since it’s about my relationship to the course and not the boat’s. As the line shortens I am still moving out at the same point relative to the course. For turn in I look at left gate and 1-ball. I wait until they are 8-10’ separated in my field of vision. This also puts me starting my turn in at the same place relative to the course regardless of line length. Of course it does assume I have consistent height on the boat from my pullout. I may make adjustments if I don’t get high enough. I’ve been told that this turn in point may have to change at shorter line lengths than -38 but unfortunately I haven’t experienced this for myself yet.

@ghutch I am on a Goode Revo CC and simply used the regular jb weld. When my insert came out the hole wasn’t stripped out so I just bought a new brass insert from Home Depot in the same size. I just put a bed of jb weld in the existing hole and on the sides and screwed the new insert into the hole and let it setup over night.