James

Dawn dishwashing liquid has proven to be overwhelming the best detergent to remove oil... hands down.

If you are sure your sx are due to stenosis then I would recommend titrating the gaba up to 1800 mg/day assuming you tolerate it. Above 1800mg really does not improve efficacy. Stay on the gaba as long as your sx improve and you at no time have muscle weakness. Muscle weakness is a red flag. As you know stenosis is a structural impingement that will not spontaneously resolve unlike a disc which will in 90% of cases. Also anytime a patient has sx of stenosis you always need to consider God forbid a mass

I am a 61 year old MD and very healthy and physically active I am currently dealing with an acute L5-S1 herniation that became symptomatic about 4 weeks ago. I have moderately severe right side radiculopathy involving the L5 nerve root. I have little personal experience with tilt tables but if you in fact have spinal stenosis I know of no studies that show that traction will sufficiently decompress the spinal cord or cauda equina due to spinal stenosis. Usually opening up the stenotic area through surgery is the treatment. If you have compression of the nerve root in the foramen ( overwhelmingly most commonly caused by herniation of the nucleus pulposus at L4-L5 or L5-S1) then traction and lumbar flexion will help open up the foremen to give some relief of nerve root. Be certain your symptoms are caused by stenosis first and not a disc that snuck up on you. A 2 week Prednisone taper helped minimally. Gabapentin has been of great help. I am going to stick with 6-12 weeks or conservative treatment to avoid a procedure. I hope this helps and wish you the best of luck doctor.

The box “fuse box” you are describing is most likely the Relay/Fuse block. Yes, you have to remove it to get to the distributor cap. If you are interested in pictures of what you are looking at go to PlanetNautique.com and click on “manuals/brochures”. Scroll down to 2007 PCM parts manual. Page 38 of the manual shows the “fuse box”.

Glad to help. Please post what you find and your final outcome so others can learn from your experience.

There are only 2 things on your ‘08 PCM the will activate the “check engine” light. One is the “oil pressure SWITCH” (NOT the oil pressure SENDER) and the other is the “water temperature SWITCH” (NOT the water temperature SENDER). Faulty SENDERS will effect the gauge reading but will not activate the “check engine” light. The SWITCHES are usually found near and “T’d” off the senders. Are the gauges giving you normal oil pressure and water temperature readings? If so it is most likely your engine is operating at normal oil pleasure and water temperature. If you want to be sure you could independently verify the oil pressure and water temperature by purchasing testers from any auto parts stores. Is your boat going into “Limp Mode” (will not operate above ~2700 rpm) when the “Check engine” light comes on? If so you could disconnect the wire from both the oil pressure and water temperature SWITCHES and your “Limp Mode” will be deactivated and you will be able to use the boat until the switches are replaced. Note: you only want to do that if you are sure you do in fact have normal oil pressure and water temperature. The switches can be purchased from NautiqueParts.com. There is a lot of information concerning this topic on both PlanetNautique.com and CorrectCraftfan.com.