lakeside7455

I have used copper sulfate for algae treatment and it seems to work well, but still trying to figure out the best treatment for weeds. Wondering what everyone else formula are using with their success. I also add blue dye as most everyone does to slow growth and looks.

Looks nice jjackkrash, but are you leaving it outside like this?

Try wetsuit warehouse, they have high tech suits, and sales all the time. I picked up a Quicksilver, 4:3, it is neoprene, so stretchy, doesn't affect skiing at all, and has a chest and back thermal patch, and glued and blind stich seams, and a flap behind the back zipper, all so less water gets in, and warmer with thermal patches. Best suit I ever owed. I think I paid about $150. Love it.

Try Booyah clean, it is a non acid huller cleaner and works great. Just spray it on, wait a few min and hose it off. It is the best stuff I tried and seems to beat everything. IT is really good at even removing the hard to remove tannin stains.

Radar is about $15 cheaper and work fine.

I'm pretty sure Jonathan Travers uses them all the time even in tournaments. Surprised more don't, once you get used to them, I don't see any major drawback.

Horton, try Booyah clean, works way better than Ultimate Hull Cleaner and many others, it is a non acid hull cleaner. It is really good on getting that tannin color out and hull turns to bright white again. https://www.booyahclean.com/

Another thing to consider, is always make that opening pass, and even if a warm up, it counts and gets you ready for harder ones. 15 off seems to be a little bungee at times if not run right, so if you are comfortable at 22-32, I'd stick to it. It would be nice to blast right out at 34, but I think a warm up is good for us non pro's.

They did have a issue with exhaust manifold leaks in past years, 2014 5.7L I had it, I think they changed the die casting now, but if you get something like that expect $1500 per side labor and material if not covered.

Something easy to do that would add to the broadcast, is post the skiers name, line length, state, and zero off setting. It is all easy to do and would be interesting to see what settings skiers are using. The zero off setting isn't discussed much, basically ignored, but I think would be interesting and worthwhile to add to the post.

The standard fits me very well with a size 9 foot. I love the Radar Vector boots with aluminum plates, super comfy, no soaps required anymore, come out in a hard fall, and still get good course performance out of them. I use them on a Connelly GTR.

Women's Connelly Aspect is a great ski for her. My wife loves it.

Same things happened to my Radar Vectors, they disenengrated behind the boot. Radar covered it under warranty and I got newer Radar Vector Boa, which they changed the material to a Carbitex, and this has done fine and is a super nice feeling boot. I added aluminum plates so good combo. But old Vector couldn't believe they literally fell apart without any use over winter.

Horton, last years World champions LFF, Joel Howley and Manon Costard, maybe not so bad a thing. 3 onside turns, seems more and more new skiers are LFF.

I like my 5.7L, however, now have an exhaust manifold leak, and after checking blogs, I guess is quite common on the 5.7L, so I'd get the 6L if available.

I had a 96 SN CB with EFI and perfect pass and it skied great. I have a 2014 SN OB now with zero off and I skied better on the 96 perfect pass. I'm thinking the zero off is always dead on, so the slow passes that within tolerance 17.05 etc, on perfect pass I was making are now gone, it's always 16.95 now, and zero off seems to hurt skiers over 200 lbs, I'm 205, more than light skiers. I take more of a hit with zero off and it is less forgiving and harder to ever catch up, than I did with Perfect pass. Learning to try to ski slow and easy and controlled, no slam turns to catch up, and let the ski do work, but not easy.

The other part of question I forgot to ask, do you have fish in the lake, if no weeds how do they survive? That is why I was thinking of lower dosage.

Lake is about 5 ft deep and 12 acres. Most brands recommend 1 gal per acre. Some are a bit different. The question is does everyone follow this dosage or less?

How much lake dye does everyone put in for a ski lake? If you read the recommendations I'd have to add a gallon per acre, and I have about 12 acers. However, in past, I only added a few gallons and it seemed fine. Is this enough? It gives it a nice blue color, not sure how much it does to stop weed growth, but a little skeptical on amount recommended.

I called PCM and they agreed to cover the manifold under warranty if the dealer installed it. That seems very fair to me. The next issue is the dealer isn't doing any maintenance work due to Covid 19, so they said it's looking like after Memorial Day to bring it in, then getting part shipped in, then the work, so guess I'm out until mid June, but happy they are covering it under warranty. Now knowing of this issue, I really want the new improved manifold, so will just have to wait it out, but best for long run. Will have to bum ski runs until its back. Now worried about the opposite side, but not leaking now, so will have to keep an eye on it, may have to replace it down the road from the sounds of it.

Jb weld didn’t work either. Leaked after a lap around the lake. Does anyone know what the warrant on exhaust manifold are?

If this jb weld doesn’t work I may try that permaflex ultra copper as last ditch try.

I am trying the jb weld extreme heat. It’s hot from slow trip around lake. I used file, wire brush, and hand grinder on it to get to bare metal. It seems to be just a tiny 1/4 inch micro crack. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and wiped it off good. So let’s see if this JB extreme heat will work. It’s rated to 2400 degrees. One last try before buying replacement manifold and gaskets.

It is a 5.7l catanium.

Did anyone have this same issue? A newer boat, winterized and kept in an insulated garage in the winter, so only 6 yrs old and have a micro crack in the cast manifold, but enough to leak water, it is on the left side and starter is on same side under it, but not exactly right under it. Is there any easy fix, JB Weld, Quick Steel to try, or are they worthless and I should just replace the entire manifold, gaskets, bolts, O2 sensors, etc, expensive and some work involved. My older 96 Nautique never had this issue for 20 years. It is a CES Cantium exhaust manifold. Any advice is appreciated if anyone experienced same thing and any success or outcomes.