ReallyGottaSki

Eric, like you alluded to, reinforced silicon material are what many of us have done , earlier in this thread, with very good results. Most images have been lost yes, in your case now with the tips,, with less total material to flex, after the main cut even with the running surface, i suggest slitting the cut edge so each segment can flex individually and conform to the water flow off the bottom as its angle changes. btw what mufflers are in the boat at the moment?

I could a bit Dan, Its quite the engine. five years ago it was a 38 yo tired 351 about to drop a valve. I didn't have the means to overbore and pistons for a fresh seal, but compression was still good. I gave the lower fresh bearings, seals, timing chain, oil pump. Camshaft clevite 214/224 112 lsa modest .480 lift. upper is twisted wedge 170 as -cast runners , with machined combustion chambers at 58cc. with the stock pistons CR is now 9.3 lifters from lunati, scorpion std 1.6 rockers, and i measured for the right pushrods Intake is Edel performer, due to height couldn't go bigger. but i port matched to the heads. Front cover is now aluminum, so running a johnson crank pump (can i say that?) vs the sherwood. found some ss commander manifolds from the eighties. all told 141# off the engine lets just say it gives 'spirited' performance its weight to HP exceeds a new prostar with the 6.2, by a whole integer digest these times and distances, and extrapolate what time and distance to 36 may be. it does all this on 87 gas, and uses less of it than all the boats we ski. And the colors came out a bit, steampunk Boat will do 49.5 with three aboard. its done 52.5, but i think it was getting air on one side. it could use bigger carburation so it likely has more in it. I would build similar in a moment. some day it will get the right pistons and zero-decked, but till then,

Just backing up visuals to the engine extraction step, because Lately progress has just been just repeatedly confirming measurements before committing to the stringer shaping

@DvarianDan Johnson no blushing problems yet. On the response we used totalboat without issues, on its floor. Then i got system 3 supplies for the supreme. We ended up first using that system 3 on the outboard Sanger barefoot, floor encapsulation, and coosa bulkheads. All from my regional fiberglass supplier. Lately we did the stern of the supreme, using up the remainder of the totalboat. Remainder of the supreme will be system 3 Im happy with it, because its basically odor free compared to the totalboat. I think my face looked flushed last time i finished up the totalboat. System 3 no reaction

@DvarianDan Johnson In my case i suspect it was shere neglect and open elements, and some leaks that were not chased down promptly. In others, the bond between the hull and stringer system lets water through the seam that makes the hds box, then travels through the hollow stringers, wet bilge, eventually more and more infiltrates the foam The stringer system is molded much ike a separate boat, looks like a small pickle fork boat flipped upside down, then bonded to the hull.

Thank you Chris, Indeed. that Image you see is at 29mph.

Appears to be a solid lamination so far, free of voids

Adjusted trailer so the Borrowed laser level can set a consistent floor height based on best fig'rin.this step critical to get the stacked heights correct for the top of stringers to be right after scribing them to the hull so the deck and inner gunnel will all line up again.

Raw stringer has been laminated. Placed into boat because we just had to see them in the boat. Precisely sized spacers will keep them true, parallel and square while they are positioned, scribed and shaped.

Its robust foam, and wet. Its volume increases further as it is pulverized. I suspect it would be hard to extract, and i predict a vent cleaner would firstly have not enough torque given the leverage on it, and would be hard to direct. high volume pressure washer seems the way to go.

Thank you Matt, It became a wonderfully driving and skiing boat, as good as i could hope. Last year it saw the pp upgraded, and a 12V pump for the heater, for strong and continuous heat when the engine is off or idling. It turned into a very quiet boat, no extra noise up through the floor best i can tell. Normal-voice dialog is all thats needed underway at ski speeds. Quietness has been pursued with a pair of downturn 'snufflers', engine box insulation, and lastly foam floor squares wrapped around the mufflers, because the original rubber strips always move about, then one ends up with the muffler direct on the hull. I'm confident that all with my other noise -abatements, i would now notice an issue with water noise from the hull/floor if it was there. So I am not missing the foam. Wake, yes. i think the boat performs like they did when fresh new. the platform rose from licking the water when i bought it, to 2" above the water now. Wake is very good, I'll close with some working pictures at 29mph and 34 mph. Holeshot is respectable, nothing freaklike my modified supreme. but still my ski pals still ask for a progressive, partial throttle start else give any more they object. the 515 prop remains just right

Next batch

IMG_5962.heic

Pylon bracket was heavy steel, and pylon was seized into its lower cup. We had this aluminum bracket and ss lower cup fabbed locally First bonding of 8 footers in the stringer lamination

Just occurred to me 🙄i could just append to repopulate the pictures to make this thread useful for others..

welcome @mikerev800

@DvarianDan Johnson thank you, i can appreciate your enthusiasm! @Dano Yes, Coosa for stringers, laminated 3/4 bluewater 26. I will do 2 ply everywhere with a third ply for 6' long from behind trans to ahead of the pylon No, coosa does not accept lags or hold screws well like wood does. i don't have a complete solution for the vertical lags yet, but will now also utilize the holes that transverse the stringers for through-bolt fasteners, these mount fasteners were often omitted I considered an aluminum cradle for a time but have not dismissed it entirely yet here is my drawings and cut plan for the stringer coosa. one note is it suggests one can fab stringers for a 19' ss/mc/centurian or similar from a single sheet of 3/4. An sn could need wider cuts than a single sheet can provide my third ply necessitates getting into a second sheet of 3/4 Transom, plywood removed and ground down Bottom section, first traced onto paper with a sharpie, cut the 1/2 coosa with jig saw and routered a 3/8 radius bevel here wetted with 2:1 , then thickened epoxy sandwiched and clamped with throughbolts and fender washers, wood blocks Upper section of 1/2" bonded similarly, then filleted the next day. the 1/2 bluewater 26 conforms to the transom arc well with a little clamp pressure. next day, 1708 cut and bonded. For a good layup the 1708 is so dense it first needs the substrate wetted, then its chopstrand side wetted, then of course its topside wetted. polyester would sink though the fibers fast but epoxy not so and would result in a dry layup. the transom firmed right up solid after this The doubling at strategic locations did not need precision cuts, and the rudder reinforcement was duplicated. similarly bonded with thickened epoxy, filleted, and glassed in one evening.

Deck came off last spring, but then the hull sat outside for rest of the year. Here it was brought inside and the floors were zipped off. An oscillating tool is the best low-dust, fast solution for demo, just chase the blade with the shop vac as one goes. Stringers removed similarly All fittings removed, Grindy grind grind

Thank you both, @eleeski I don't see using zo on this, but will get pp w/zbox. The engine is enhanced, snappy responsive with strong midrange , the boat is light, i hear this is a combination that works well together with that system. here is the link to that RCB build. I had just started rebuilding the images after the site migration, but then suddenly the thread was no longer editable, i regret not acting quicker.

Welp, my next boat project has commenced, and seems time to begin a photolog/discussion. I can only hope a photolog remains for posterity, However it appears my 351 build in ccfan lost its images, as well as my RCB build here lost its images, but alas! Lets play boats! My 82 Supreme went offline two summers ago, just as my RCB project boat came online; its pylon was getting creaky and its old bones were just too soft. Why bother one asks? because this boat consistently provided the best ski experience i've ever had. And not just for me but for the family and others. I embrace the challenge of improvement, making a mind-melting, unique old ski boat, making people wonder why such a thing is not available in 2024, I contend the 26-30 mph skiers got shortchanged in the incremental pursuit for record shortline performance. Then we ask where are all the new competitive skiers? 3000#+ boats cannot perform well in this realm, no matter the cost. Weight, with new draggy hulls create more propwash volume, that hump becomes the new 'wake' no matter how wide they make the boat. aim it make it no heavier than before, add some spray rails, no wood. Coosa/1708/epoxy layups. Play with carbon engine cover and platform just cuz. Beware this is going to take a while, going to look worse before it looks better. we will learn new skills along the way. Will be much slower than the prior projects, i welcome your patience , interest and dialogs

Looks to me like a fundamental is missing there. Appears he is not yet aware of the level of isometric tension one has to engage to first get into form, and the isometric tension to maintain that form during a session. i observe someone just kinda surfing on their ski, hanging loose, flexing and complying. the tension to hold form, cannot lag behind the power one intends to increase, else things go sideways fast. i would firstly advise rolling things way back and revisiting how to stand on the ski and hold that form all around the lake from start to finish each session so it becomes the new default state. Then holding that form on pullout drills, followed by increasing the power applied to the rope, any humility applied to rethink these fundamentals, will be rewarded tenfold with a season of accomplishments and personal bests.

Looks like trial 1 didn't work so well

One consideration in the future that i don't see a good solution to is, no matter how complete, functional and aesthetic a refurb or restoration is , and these later models age, if the boat has a glass cockpit with a system that is nla or 10 thousand+ to replace, very few buyers will take on that liability without a deep warrantee for something so fragile and too quickly unsupported by factory The result could be discounting the boat and quickly finding the refurb business model unviable.

Interesting. Absolutely viable if one is doing it for oneself, one can make a smashing boat for very low coin. I'm building a second now, and a third is staged. The quandary is, farming out any services is absolutely budget-busting, no margin left. IF one can sew, so much better. but even pre-made skins and bulk foam is 5k and rising. more for open bow. the hours to just break upholstery down and reinstall is immense. its easy to put in 400-700 hours to make something impressive, soup to nuts, new boat equivalent. i recently built one, without repower, for 18 all in, thats boat,trailer,cover, platform, speed control, de-foamed, floor leveled and reinforced, cables, helm, hoses. Every component scrutinized, replaced or refurbed. Then, say it was somehow worth 40 to someone after that, thats 'paying me' 30 bucks and hour or so in this 700 manhr case, 😐. pre tax.. 55k could make a smashing boat! Unfortunately If one spent 55k to make such a boat we all desire, and one could sell for 60k, thats 10 bucks an hour for 500 hours of work or so. Boat 2 will be extensively modified to have mind-melting performance (for what is), and, will do some things better than 100k+ new boats, including skiing. challenging myself. I concur careful weight control is a major factor and solves multiple parameters. However all that said, i'm also not chasing ZO solutions for myself either.