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OscawanaSkier

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Everything posted by OscawanaSkier

  1. I bought the Wakeye Resolute vibration dampener a couple years ago, but never took the time to customize it (too much of a PITA). But finally sat down this spring and set it up - and boy was it worth it! Our ski videos using the front-facing camera on the iPhone X have never been better. I’ve stopped using the Wakeye app cause it doesn’t support the telephoto (2x optical) lens, opting to just let the default camera app run for a whole set. SO much more resolution and clarity. Wakeye isn’t selling them anymore, but maybe one can be picked up online or from a fellow BOS member?? This is a photo (1x lens) of my ski buddy Craig from this morning.
  2. Malibu dealer told me when they dropped off the boat to always turn off battery switch when you cover the boat. I mostly follow that rule and haven’t had any battery issues.
  3. “Now, keep everything there. If you loose it, STOP trying to make it work the old way and reset the body above” Interesting. I’m working hard on correcting my stance too. Should the goal be to HOLD the stacked (structured) position the WHOLE WAY through the course, or do you all cross the wakes (stacked), stand taller (without “stack”), glide, make the turn, find your stack again, cross the wakes, repeat?
  4. If you’ve been following the Spraymakers podcast, you’ve heard Trent and Rossi talk about moving your CoM in the desired direction of travel (like many coaches). I’ve been drilling my pullout, and as a LFF, I’ve been following Trent’s advice about “falling” towards 11oclock if you’re standing on a clock dial. While I can easily fall to my side, and maybe slightly forward, 11oclock seems impossible to get to (or just too damn scary). Any advice on how to achieve this ideal initiation of the pullout?
  5. As the OP, I wish I could report that I made the right call getting the ceramic coating in 2018. Total waste as far as I could tell. It was done by the dealer (IGL Coatings was the brand). Based on my research back then, I think it was one of the best (although quite new) commercially applied coatings. I just think the product hadn’t reached the level of protection for boating, that it had for cars. I don’t know what improvements have been made since then.
  6. @Interjon - yeah I remember your other post about your success with the 12mini. I posted this question to see if others were having same success. Seems like the obvious difference is the mount. Does the Ski Dock have some vibration reduction ability? Anyone else have great success with Ski Dock over Wakeye mount? I’m due for an iPhone upgrade, that’s why I’m trying to figure this out. My ski buddies all have iPhones and simply air drop vids when we wrap up skiing (that’s why I want to stick with iPhone). But, a new $150 mount is way cheaper than a new iPhone!
  7. How much better is the iPhone 12 rear (not selfie) camera at recording skiing videos? I’ve been using my iPhone X selfie camera with the Wakeye app for a couple years. The OIS (optical image stabilization) on the X’s rear camera doesn’t play well with the high-frequency vibrations in a ski boat. The selfie camera is ok, but would be better to utilize the phone’s “telephoto” (~52mm equivalent) lens to get a tighter image. There are tricks like vibration dampeners and magnets, but I’d like to avoid those if possible. So...anyone using the iPhone 12 rear camera successfully without terrible video shake? If yes, exactly which 12 model are you using (mini, 12, pro, or pro max)?
  8. So if you use a spray waterproofing solution like 303 Fabric Guard you might see some instructions or videos about laying the cover out on your driveway. The instruction that's left out is to make sure you put some plastic or a tarp between your cover and the pavement. Sprayed my cover two days ago, all looked great, came back two hours later to find hundreds of brown stains. Turns out, even though i'd blown the driveway clear and recently sprayed it down, there were still little bits of tar-like residue that - once exposed to the 303 - seeped up through the back of the cover, soaking right through. So far I've tried dish soap, paint thinner, acetone, and WD40 to get it out. WD40 is the only one that does anything to it (but it's still there). I'm also going to try power washing today, but I don't have a lot of hope. I also don't trust that the tar won't transfer to my vinyl, so (at my wife's insistence) I ordered a new cover yesterday (a month out). In the meantime I'll use a cheap cover from Walmart. So as you get ready for the season, be very careful with what you put your cover down on! And one added tip...any overspray WILL most likely stain the surface beyond (like pavement or stone). It does go away after a month or two, but another good reason to have an oversized piece of plastic underneath.
  9. Ice out 3 weeks ago, it snowed tonight, boat goes in Saturday. Trying to convince the Mrs. to drive on Sunday! Might get to 60deg (water in low 50’s). Can’t wait!
  10. One more thing...since the runners fall to the rear of this lift when in the “down” position, the lift will likely be unbalanced when you first float it. Just support the front till you get to deeper water and then use the remote to drop the legs and re-balance. One person in the water (or an extra float/inner tube at the front) would do. Raise the legs again when you get to your destination. Good luck!
  11. That lift is likely about 600-700 lbs. Similar to @davidn idea, raise lift, borrow (2) 2x4x12” (minimum) dock floats and put UNDER the main runners, ratchet strap in place (with control box on top of one of the floats, also strapped). Then hit down on remote (which will float lift feet) and then go SLOW! Reverse at the other end. You could strap to boat, but I’d want feet as high as possible, especially at destination site.
  12. Learned to ski behind my friend’s Malibu that was just like that one. Haven’t seen a wake that small behind any boat since!
  13. Update: the size 12 seems to have been the right size. Following @UWSkier recommendation above putting two cut socks over toes when forming worked perfectly, even with the insoles in. Now boot feels really comfortable, and will likely get even more comfortable after break in. I used the microwave-heated rice method found on Intuition’s site. Heat rice till it’s quite hot (you can only touch it for a few seconds). Make sure to remove insole before putting rice in liner, and also make sure liner tongue sits correctly while forming. It will feel too tight while your foot is in the liner during the forming, but perfect once you remove the two sock tips. Thanks everyone for your advice!
  14. Just got the size 13/14 boot. Felt great a first, but then realized the liner was quite loose in the shell as I pulled up my heel, even when cranked down (usually good, but I’m mounting to an MOB, so want this tighter). Tried the 12 again, without the insole, much less sloppy. Swapped to non-stretch laces - even better. Based on the comments above, I’m going to take the next step with the size 12 and heat-form the liner to make even a little more room for my toes. It should be noted, the difference between the 12 and the 13/14 is significant. The 13/14 is about 3/4” longer. If this was only a jump of one shoe size, the larger size would likely be right. I’m just at an awkward point in the boot sizing.
  15. @oldjeep - good point! I’m 6’-4” and I normally look over the top of the windshield more than looking through it.
  16. My TXi came from the dealer with the wide-angle mirror installed on the center flip-open window. I’ve seen some boats with the mirror dead-center over the steering wheel. Which do you like better and why?
  17. Thanks everyone! I ordered the size 13/14 last night so I can try both side-by-side. Will report back findings and final decision.
  18. @uwskier - no rear boot, just an RTP. Once back on the water I’ll do some experimenting with the BOA and the lace tightness. Without the insoles, my toes are just hitting the front of the liner/boot. That becomes uncomfortable with the insole in. It’s also pretty tough to get them on. I’m starting to think going up a size, plus insoles, plus careful lining forming will give me the most leeway. I just remember my first pair of snow boots that were just a hair too short/tight. I think I’d rather error the other way. Open to opposing thoughts.
  19. I wear a size 12 shoe and I’m test fitting a size 12 Vapor Carbitex (2021). I’ll be mounting on an MOB plate and replacing the stretchy cords (so will wear the boot tight). I have not heat formed the Intuition liner yet. The 12 fits snug without the insole, but too tight with. I could go up a size, but that’s for a 13/14 foot (might be a bit sloppy). I could run without the insoles, but seems like they’re there for a reason. And of course this issue could be moot once liners are heat formed (especially if using the Intuition toe cap). Any advice? Will the liner shrink enough to make up for the difference of an insole?
  20. It appears the 12 and 12mini have the same camera (wide and ultra wide lens). The 12 pro adds a telephoto lens (52mm equivalent) and the 12 pro max adds slightly tighter telephoto and bigger lens, plus newer sensor stabilization). @interjon - you’re using the Wakeye app?
  21. @Interjon - are you using a 12, 12 pro, or 12 pro max? Looks like each has a slightly different camera.
  22. I’ve been using iPhone X selfie camera with Wakeye App and mount with good results. We just set it up, set speed in the app, and ski. My buddies and I can ski 10 sets and not think about the camera till we’re done. I’ll have to try my wife’s iPhone 12 when the ice thaws. @Horton - does the Hero have a tighter lens than the original GoPros, and can you set it to start/stop recording based on speed?
  23. Just re-read all of the GUT chapters, including @AdamCord's Gate step-by-step summary and video. While Gut 101-104 establishes for us a critical overall objective (“Move the handle as high on the boat as possible, as fast as possible”), and provides an invaluable foundation on why/how to get there - all rooted in physics - it hasn't yet translated this theory into a description that a new skier can use as a starting point towards this ideal. Except for GUT Gate - THAT'S what I'm trying to get to, but for each part of the course. Now I assume the Adams haven't added more chapters like the GUT Gate because - well - they have a lot on their plates right now (c85 anyone??). Now, I was originally thinking of getting this type of description from multiple skiers - and we all take from those descriptions what seems to make sense to each of us. This approach might still be valid and helpful. But I can also see a different approach, where we together work to translate the GUT theory into a step-by-step guide for the entire course. Essentially a crowd-sourced guide that's similar to GUT Gate. Would that be as good as if the Adams had infinite time on their hands to sit and write this all out for us, maybe not. But as we all know, they have given us a LOT of their time and wisdom on a daily basis through their insightful posts here on BoS. The problem is all that wisdom is spread out over hundreds of posts. I bet the community could do a lot of the heavy-lifting of pulling this guide together, and then the Adams could help us tweak where needed. Is this a crazy idea? Maybe. But I have to say, if I had a step-by-step guide like the Gut Gate when I started skiing the course, I'd be a LOT further along today.
  24. @Wish - Generally I agree with you on nomenclature. Different words or ways of describing something will “click” with different people. A good coach knows that and can say the same thing three different ways until the skier gets it. I just think there are a few terms that are used often that are difficult for new skiers to grasp. Regarding GUT - I first read through it all about two years ago after stopping in at Trophy to ski a few sets and sitting down with Adam to chat. Blown away by his understanding of the physics. It’s a required resource for all skiers. But it’s a lot! And we (or at least I) need to boil all that theory down to simple goals to accomplish at each and every point in the course. And back to the point about nomenclature, I bet that if the two Adams did this exercise separately, they would describe it in different ways. Maybe the way @AdamCord describes it “clicks” with me?? That’s one of the benefits I see in doing this. @MichaelWiebe - thanks for posting the GUT link. As said, any newbie skier should start there. I’m going to reread all of it today with this frame. Looking forward to it!
  25. Over in the “Towline Tension” thread @ski6jones added this really insightful post: I had a coach ask me a question about what I wanted to be doing at some point in the course. I fumbled and bumbled my words and couldn't formulate a cogent answer. His comment to me was you should be able to tell me what you're trying to accomplish at every point in the course. Until he said that it never even occurred to me to try. So I went and tried to write it all down. Was that ever enlightening! I had pieces and parts but nothing continuous. I even found some contradictory ideas. He went on about how that comment was super helpful in furthering his understanding of his skiing. In thinking about this idea, I thought about all the skiing posts, tutorials, and podcasts I've listened to. They're almost always some great skier writing/talking about what they think or do at one specific part of the course. What we usually miss though is the larger context - what did they think/do in the previous part of the course, and what happens to them at the next part of the course. As we all know, they're all connected. Additionally, differences in nomenclature or just unintuitive descriptions (like "leading shoulder") can easily confuse an inexperienced skier. But if you're able to follow a skier's description from beginning to end, I think they'd be more likely to grasp what's being described. So the question is, do you guys agree? Would it be helpful for less experienced skiers (perhaps even for more experienced skiers too?) if we had a number of start-to-finish written descriptions of what an accomplished skier thinks/does at each and every point in the course? And if you do think this is a good idea - would you take the time and think through what you do at every step, and write it all out to share with everyone? If there's interest in this idea…then we can work on defining the different parts of the course (for consistency), and maybe even some common nomenclature to make it easy to follow.
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