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tjones999

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  • Preferred boat
    MasterCraft
  • Real Name
    Terry Jones

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  1. Had an issue with a 2014 Nautique shifter. Boat would go into reverse, would not go into forward. This is a digital fly by wire shift and throttle. It was at an event so you do whatever you have to do to resume... Opened it up and found there are three microswitches for neutral interlock, forward and reverse, actuated by a plastic cam attached to the shift lever. They are all mounted on a printed circuit board and are a waterproof type and where they mount on the PCB they are fully glued to seal. (Looks like a pretty clean design!). There was some glue on the actuator lever for the forward microswitch that I think was causing the issue. Removed that and it would shift. But... Even before we took things apart, I noticed that the control makes a sort of buzzing noise when in gear. It almost sounds like a relay buzzing... like a mechanical buzz not a beeper. Can't really see where this is coming from as things are sort or potted with glue. Anyone had this before? Side note... the cover you take off to expose the micro switches has a blob with wires in it attached to the cover... THAT controls throttle... and fun fact, starting the engine with that off is full throttle... just saying... It appears to be a magnetic sensor that senses two magnets on the throttle control to determine throttle position.
  2. Been there, done that, Shoe Goo, cable ties, inner tube, whatever it takes to get on the water. Yeah it worked... but I have to suspect that the release characteristics change when you cobb up a repair like that... making it easier or harder to come out of the binding in a spectacular crash... and both easier and harder to release can be just as bad in my opinion... I like to believe that Radar has done some thinking about that when they make the stretch rubber part a certain thickness and a certain material with specific stretch characteristics and I know my repairs are seriously lacking science and the testing of my repairs is pretty much "hit it"... And don't think I am not going to see what I can do with my 3D printer and a spool of TPU and an industrial strength sewing machine somewhere down the line as well... "hit it"
  3. Old thread but if you have read this far you are interested. I have the same issue. I started on RS1 bindings. Those were my first Radar bindings and I loved them... But eventually the rubber around the back cracked and gave up. Went to Vapor bindings. Love the fit and feel but here I am suffering the same fate as my RS1's in way shorter time. And not just one pair, a couple of sets of the green Vapors. Same fate. I have to admit, having these fail when I still have bindings like HO Approach and HO 97's (thats showing my age, some of you were not born then...) that are still going strong had me seriously considering switching. I am used to bindings lasting a LONG time. I am OK with replaceable pars wearing out. Liners fail, buy new ones. But the shell I expect to last... I was shopping for Syndicate hardshells but I decided to talk to Radar first. I contacted Radar using their web form. Heard nothing back. Pretty disappointed. SO I used the form again a couple of weeks later and was pretty blunt, what good is having a "contact us" form if nobody gets back to you after you contact them. Well that lit a fire under someone's butt. I instantly got an email from the person that reads the form apologizing and from Brooks, who has made comments in this thread, wanting to talk to me about the issue. Brooks and I talked on the phone and they are aware there is an issue. Next model year they will use a different material. He explained the current material is TPU and its enemy is long term exposure to water. I admit, I figured sun was going to be the worst enemy so I would typically ski, then bag the ski to protect it from the sun. Great, absolutely the wrong thing to do. Dry it then bag it would have been better. I do 3D printing and TPU is one of the materials you can use for flexible printing and yup, moisture is the enemy. You have to keep it in dry storage when not in actual use 3D printing. The new material is a silicone material according to Brooks. I am optimistic this will be a good solution and I won't have to switch brands after all. They will be available end of August 2019 and Brooks made a reasonable replacement cost offer, not free, but considering mine are a few years old, reasonable. I will try to remember to follow up when I have them, when I have skied on them, and when they fail so we have an idea of how the new material holds up over time... And for reference purposes, my typical season is 30 sets in spring in Florida, 30 sets in fall in Florida and probably 60 sets in the summer at home in Canada... best guess.... Never really counted. And I prefer to leave my liners in all the time. (also great for keeping the TPU wet...) Tried pulling the liners out on exit but find the inner plastic flaps end up folding over and biting into my foot. So in the end, Radar customer support appears to have come through and product development appears to have realized the issue.
  4. I just want to know the angle people use on the CG Denali wing. I get the impression most are using 4-6 degrees but I woulkd love it if people just replied to this with their preferred angle or range they use.
  5. I now have sets of CG Denali wider gauges as well as the regular and I have low angle regular now as well. As @BuoyChaser mentioned you can just use a shim to use your regular gauges with the CG wing instead of the special CG set, but the first person that asked me about the CG fin set tried that and just found it easier to have the wider set and not mess around with a shim. Thus the creation of the wider set. But the wider set costs more to make and mail (they don't fit in a COM10 letter sized envelope like the regular set, they weigh more than 30g, they use more material, and a set of 6 takes at least 3 hours on a 3D printer to make) so I am charging $10 for a set of 6. Regular ones can work with regular alone or with CG Denali fins with a shim. Wider CG Denali ones work only with CG Denali fins. Your choice. (regular set of 6 takes 2 hours to print BTW... so I am not getting rich on any of these) @BraceMaker has a good suggestion but again, adding shims of any form does complicate things and when trying to set angles within 1/2 degree, any time you add complexity you reduce repeat-ability and accuracy so I think I will take a pass on the angled shim approach. So for each type I have 3 sets... 3 different sets of regular width at $5 per set Low Angle: 4.0,4.5,5.0,5.5,6.0,6.5 Standard Angle: 7.0,7.5,8.0,8.5,9.0,9.5 High angle: 10.0,10.5,11.0,11.5,12.0,12.5 3 different sets of wide CG Denali Wide at $10 per set Low Angle: 4.0,4.5,5.0,5.5,6.0,6.5 Standard Angle: 7.0,7.5,8.0,8.5,9.0,9.5 High angle: 10.0,10.5,11.0,11.5,12.0,12.5 All listed on SIA in the miscelaneous section and all also available on Thingiverse for free if anyone wants to print their own. I have also changed the regular set just now to have the bottom cut out like the CG Denali set (again at the request of the first person to ask about wider ones for the Denali fin) so that they sit flat on a curved ski base to get more repeatable results.
  6. Well @DangerBoy that post of yours generated a bunch of interest. Thx, I think. See if my 3D printer can keep up. Working on the CG Denali set (wider, 4.0-12.0 degrees, it will be 3 sets of 6 since my printer is only big enough to print 6 at a time when they are that big). The other consideration is postage. The current set can be mailed as a letter. The wider CG Denali set being wider no longer fits a COM10 envelope nor is it within the weight range for a normal letter. So when I start selling the CG Denali set they will cost more to make and ship. I suspect it will be like $15US a set including postage so not huge. I will be posting them on Ski-It-Again.com with purchase info and also on thingiverse for those that want to make their own or have access to a 3D printer somewhere.
  7. BraceMaker scores for observance. He is only the second person to point out the wing was on backwards and I have had the post on SIA for a long time. When I was doing the post I grabbed a ski for a pic and it had no wing. I found one, stuck it on and took the pic. Never gave it a thought. Just curious why the lower angles? Are you using the CG fin as some others that asked for the lower angle are using?
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