Mick04

I’m 6’3”, 230(ish). 69.5 Vapor for 34/32off or better; 69 Senate 34/28off and slower/longer. I have both and tried many others. Not too many options out there for bigger guys, but these two are good options.

I completed this upgrade 2 or 3 years ago with my 2014 TXi. It was well worth it. I think I just put some painters tape over the gel coat where I was going to drill, then used a small hole saw. I put it right next to where the old round puck was on the driver side, so it covers the old hole. I left the passenger side puck in place (unplugged at the head unit) instead of trying to plug or patch the hole. I think removing the head unit is pretty straight forward, if you get under the dash, you will see. Like I said, it was at least a couple years ago. I don’t remember any gotcha’s, so it must have been pretty easy, even for someone with novice skills like me. Definitely improves the pull.

I haven’t been since pre-COVID, but it was great the last time I went. Nice set up. Nautique 200. Mike is a great guy and sets a very comfortable atmosphere.

@503Kento , If you find a 1998-2000 MC that you are interested in, post the link here. I’m sure the forum members will come up plenty of better options near that price point for your consideration.

Dano, It was a 1:1 tranny. RPM went up about 150 @34mph. With the 4 blade it was typically right about 3400, with the newer CNC 3 blade it was 3530-3550 for me to get good times with PP v6.3 (225lbs, 28-35 off). Eric said the 3 blade was a lower pitch, but actually more surface area (the blades were huge) and a different cup shape compared to the 4 blade.

Years ago I had a 93 Mastercraft, (carbed 285hp, Perfect Pass). I was running an OJ 4 blade, can’t remember model #. Pull was smooth, but seemed kind of “soft”. Eric at OJ helped me choose a newer design CNC 3 blade that increased RPM a bit, but gave a much firmer pull. Lost a few mph off the top end, (went from 47 to 44 tops) but it was worth it for the feel at 34mph. Great customer service from Eric. That being said, my ski partner has had nothing but ACME on his last 3 Ski Nautiques and has no complaints about them either.

6balls, that is exactly what I tried this year. Running antifreeze through engine with heater running on hi. When I pulled the heater hoses to check, it was clear water, nothing made it to the core. The rest of engine had antifreeze (block, J pipes, risers). I’m guessing my engine running at idle doesn’t provide enough water pressure to push all the way up to heater core. Explains why heater blows cold after a couple minutes, sitting at end of course swapping skiers.

They probably still have water in them. Take the 5 minutes to disconnect both ends and blow through one end to clear it. If there was no water in it, you will know for the future. Better than wondering all winter if you stored you boat correctly.

Cheap, Amazon (Eco-Worthy) 25W 12v Solar charger with charge controller. $59. Wal-Mart 12v Battery lasted 4 years on it. Just started slowing down this year.

Your boat looks fairly centered in that pic, going by drain plug and center of trailer. Is it possible to adjust bunks outward an inch or two each? When perfectly centered, my TXi has about 1.5 inches of space between the edge of the chine and the bunk.

+1 for TRX type handles, resistance bands, body weight exercises. Add kettle bells and medicine balls later.

I’ve used this in the past, Capt John’s. It is mildly acidic, but not nearly as harsh as On-Off, yet still worked as effectively and didn’t seem to harm trailer. https://boatbrite.com/products/boat-brite-algae-and-waterline-stain-remover

Not sure if this is the right size, but you get the idea. Look for stainless if available: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-4-Count-8-Standard-SAE-Internal-Tooth-Lock-Washer/3012392

Unless you trailer your boat a TON, I would just rebuild with new version of what was on there. If you start changing things, a couple hour job could easily turn into a couple of weekends. E-Trailer.com probably has exact replacement parts. https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Hubs_and_Drums.aspx

Wow, I generally don’t let people ride in the front of my TXi.

Be as consistent as possible with how far outside the wake you start. A small variation there changes the alignment of the buoys a lot.

Sorry if I miss spoke. I meant RPM mode on the Malibu cruise, not ZO. That would give you an idea if you had a consistent RPM signal.

If it works in RPM mode or not may help diagnose the RPM drop out theory.

Does it work in RPM mode for 32mph and slower?

I’ve been on the original black “stiff” boot for about 5 seasons. What is the opinion of those who moved from this to any of their other boots? White cuff, Super Shell 2.0,4.0,5.0? I’m ok, replacing it with exactly what I’ve been using, but always open to other suggestions. I’m familiar with the technical differences, I’m more interested in how those translate to feel and performance. Thanks.

@Sethro nice looking boat. That trailer confuses me (I’m somewhat a simpleton), can you give details?

Horton, Which Vapor? Pro, Lithium, Graphite, (Did they make an alloy Vapor?). Seems like 32mph course skier is in the sweet spot for the Graphite Vapor. At least according to Radar’s marketing. If it was a 28mph skier on a Pro Build, disregard what I just said.

^What the previous 3 posters said^. How about take your current favorite ski. When you are at the Boarding School, if things are coming together, demo a Senate for a set. They are a Radar dealer. Have them set it up.

No. Actually makes them a little thinner. Order an Intuition Aqua liner XL.