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oldmanskier

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oldmanskier last won the day on January 25 2023

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Personal Information

  • Preferred boat
    2014 Carbon Pro
  • Home Ski Site
    No Wake Lake
  • Real Name
    Tom Smothers
  • Ski
    66" Goode WR LFF
  • State
    TN
  • Tournament PB
    4 @ 35 34mph
  • USAWS Member # or other IWWF Federation #
    Yes

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  1. Jody, Thanks so much for the quick reply. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  2. Jody, if cracking issue does occur do you know the cost of replacement manifolds for 2014 PCM 5.7 Catanium™ CES EX343 engines? Thanks for the quick reply. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  3. Jody Seal, I asked in this post if my 2014 Carbon Pro Engine 2014 PCM 5.7 Catanium™ CES EX343 engine has the potential for cracking issue, and you responded it did. My boat currently has 485 hours but no cracking issues at this time. Do you know all model years of PCM Cat engines that could have this defect? The reason I ask is I am selling my boat and my ski club has approached me about buying my boat as the club boat. I wanted to be upfront about any possible issues known for 2014 PCM 5.7 Catanium™ CES EX343 engines and also know what all model years PCM 5.7 Catanium™ CES EX343 engines might have this cracking issue. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. Tom Smothers (Oldmanskier)
  4. I have completed installing my new steering cable. I lake tested today, and it is really good. I did not realize just how stiff my old cable had gotten. Two fingers steering now. It took me three half days to complete. I have detailed below the process I used. I used the method of pulling new cable from front of boat to rudder end of boat. Because I had no help, am shaped like a Rubics cube and not very flexible, I think this is the only way I could do it by myself. See details below. Thanks for everyone's postings on this subject. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier) These instructions are for a 2014 Centurion Carbon Pro with 5.7 PCM Excalibur engine. This method snakes the new steering cable under the floor from bow end of boat to rudder end of boat. 1: Remove Engine cover. 2: Remove rear backrest cushion. 3: Remove rear floor panel to access rudder. 5: Remove observer bench seat. 6: Remove driver side plastic foot rest. 7: Remove driver side front kick panel. This allows you to see up under bow of boat. 8: Remove driver side-side kick panel. It is the panel left of driver left foot. Consists of a small panel facing towards engine (remove first) and the driver side-side kick panel (remove second). This was the hardest one to get to screws that held panel in place but by removing this side panel it allows easier access to hole in floor panel at front of boat to snake new cable thru to bilge area. May need to pull plastic vent hoses out of floor panel to get better view of area. These pull out easily and can be pushed back in somewhat easily. 9: Remove floor panel pylon goes thru. You may just have to swivel it to one side. This allows you to get to steering cable easier when snaking thru. 10: Remove old steering cable (rectangular metal box attached at steering wheel) from where it is attached to steering wheel. 11: Cut old cable from rectangular metal box that was attached to steering wheel. I used a bolt cutter to do this. 12: Attach old cable cut end to new steering cable end that attaches to rutter. I used Gorilla tape to attach cables to each other. Make sure the old and new cable will not come apart while snaking thru to back of boat. I also taped the cut end of the cable tight against the new cable with electrical tape due to cable ends were sharp where I cut the old cable. I also taped the big nut on new cable you use to attach to sleeve at rudder end tight against old cable. This allows it to not hang or dig into any hoses while snaking thru to back of boat. 13: Pull old cable from the rudder end of the boat till the attached ends of the cable is going thru hole in floor panel at front of boat. 14: Push attached end (where old cable attached to new cable) thru the hole in the floor panel to bilge area under the floor panel. This was the hardest part of installation due to hole thru floor has hoses running thru and made a tight squeeze. I was able to compress the hoses with my fingers and push the attached ends thru to the bilge. Once the long steel shaft and big nut of the new cable (this attaches to rudder) was thru floor, the cable was easily snaked thru by pulling old cable which is attached to new cable to the rudder end of boat. I was lucky in my case that the old cable was not zip tied to anything in the bilge area. Old cable was just lying in the floor of bilge area. New Cable is now snaked all the way from front to the rudder end of boat. 15: Attach new cable rectangular metal box to steering wheel gear. 16: Push new cable at rudder end thru sleeve and tighten big nut on new cable to sleeve. 17: Attach new cable to rudder. 18: Reinstall all panels you removed. 19: Lake test the new steering cable. 20: If all checks out you may need to recenter the steering wheel. I did.
  5. shoeskiman, If I understand correctly, you attached the fish tape to the old cable at rudder end and pulled old cable and fish tape thru to bow of boat. You then attached new cable to fish tape at bow end and using fish tape you pulled new cable back thru to rudder end of boat. Do I have the correct understanding of your process? Never thought of using a fish tape. Good idea. Thanks for any clarification you can give on your steering cable install. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  6. LeonL, Thanks for the information. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  7. Somewhere there is a thread about Jody Seal cutting the cable loose from the front of the boat, attaching new cable to old cable and pulls it out thru to the back of boat. I have been looking for that information but unable to find. If anyone knows the post Jody's cable method is detailed, please let me know. After much thought Jody's method appears to me the easier way to get the new cable threaded thru. Taking driver's seat out is a must for me to get under front of boat. Being my boat is at the lake under carport I may attempt the cable install next week when cooler weather and lower humidity is forecast. Chattanooga is very hot and humid this week. Shoeskiman good luck with your install. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  8. Stokes vest is the only comp vest I have ever had that floated me without having to tread water. Had other comp vests but had to add extra floatation to them to keep mouth and nose above water. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  9. Stokes vest is the only comp vest I have ever had that actually floated me properly. All others I had to tread water slightly to keep water from getting in my nose. I will say I am very thick muscled and have never been able to float very well. I had Eagles in the past but had to have them custom made with extra floatation to keep my nose and mouth above water. I am a Stokes fan all the way. It floats me and is very comfortable. Tom Smothers (Oldmanskier)
  10. Just an FYI. I had to take my driver's seat out to look under dash a steering cable part number. 69-year-old man not very flexible trying to look under front of boat. The original steering cable part number for my 2014 Centurian Carbon Pro is Teleflex Part# SSC15420. The last two digits 20 indicated the length. I have one ordered from SKIDIM. Not a cheap purchase, $315 including shipping. Now to figure out exactly how to install it. WKSKI1831 detailed the tip "I think someone on this site maybe Jody seal had a good suggestion they said to cut the old cable by the helm and pull it out the back." sounds interesting. WKSKI1831 did you attach the new cable to the old cable so when you pull the old cable out it will pull the new cable thru to the back? Thanks for all the information. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  11. My Boat: 2014 Centurian Carbon Pro 5.7 PCM Excalibur engine. Steering cable has got very stiff, and it does not turn to the left as far as it did. Appears I need a new steering cable for my boat. Anyone replaced a steering cable on a 2014 Carbon Pro before? If so where did you purchase your cable or do you any tips on doing the replacement? I am thinking one place to buy a new cable is SKIDIM. Any information will be apprecieated. Thanks Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  12. My wife and I went to the Lake 38 PRO-AM this past weekend. What a great ski site. You can view skiing from any part of course you want to from either side of the lake. We sat under the tent at 7th Buoy building and got to talk to lots of people during the two days we were there. Had to leave before Sunday's finals. Karen and Keith are great hosts and make everyone feel welcome. The skiing was incredible for both men and women's divisions. Thanks again to Karen and Keith for a great weekend. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  13. Looks like I am going to get to be a spectator at Lake 38 this weekend. So looking forward to it. A few questions. What time is the tournament starting Friday? Has a running order been created for the Pro and AM skiers? Will running order be available on site for spectators? Will there be food vendors at the site, or do I need to bring my own? Any information will be appreciated. I hope to meet some other ballofspray people there. Thanks to Keith and all the Lake 38 gang for doing this tournament. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  14. Thanks for all the information. Hope I do not have anything stop me from attending like happened to me last year. Looking forward to Lake 38 Pro AM. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
  15. I am hoping to be able to attend and watch all the great skiing that will happen at the 2023 Lake 38 Pro AM. Anyone have information on motels close to Lake 38. I want to get my reservations set up. Thanks of any info. Tom Smothers (oldmanskier)
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