jdk99

@Bracemaker....totally agree on the SA. I just found it interesting that the width and SA were so similar between the two and was curious if the 68 Vapor and 67 Senate aren't very similar in how they ski, particularly given the widths. Ideally I'd ski both, but unless I demo both new versions, that's not likely to happen.

@jhughes, @MJE...interesting you found a substantial difference in the two. Particularly given the nearly identical dimensions. Maybe a slightly different construction for the senate vs vapor? Or maybe it's in the recommended fin settings/binding positions? Despite the nearly identical dimensions, the settings recommendations are slightly different on the Radar website.

@aupatking....your comment might cost me some money!! Thanks for your input.

Thanks guys. If the construction is the same and the dimensions between the 68 vapor and 67 Senate are the same, seems like they would ski very similar. That opens up more options on buying used as there are far more vapors out there than senates. @jhughes...no I love the 15. But I am right on the size cutoff so dropping to 32MPH I think a jump to a 68" Vapor (or 67" Senate) would be best, unless you all think otherwise. Also my son decided to explode in growth this year so I am going to bump him from his old 65" A2 to my old 67" 15 Vapor....Good excuse for me to get a new ski!

I'm currently on a 67" 2015 inch vapor looking to upgrade (22, aspiring 28 off). I love the ski but am looking to slow from 34mph to 32mph due to age and unhappy joints. From what I can see looking at the specs, the 68" Vapor and 67" Senate have nearly identical surface area and width. So....1) Are the guts of the two skis essentially the same such that they would ski very similar? and 2) which of the 2016-2020 Vapor/Senate years would you suggest ? (I don't like to mess with the fin much so easiest to set-up and go would be my preference) Thanks for your help.

@Gloersen...very nice preliminary work. How very 'engineer' of you! Looking forward to your assimilation of the raw data into useful and accurate curves for each setting particularly as they relate to position in the course. The question is whether the precision of your telemetry will allow for that in any meaningful way.

Do you have the touch screen or gauges? If touch screen, are you getting a stage 1 or 2 overheat message? If so, agree with @bigtex2011...start with impeller

Liquid Edge in Farmer City, IL. Doug's a great guy.

@MISkier...’shoulders forward’, as in shoulders leading (toward front of ski) OR forward toward the boat? Assuming the former.

Thoughts?

Solved!! Thanks for all the help guys.

Similar situation. Broken ankle after partial release from Strada's. Switched to OB4/MOB four years ago. Took some time to adjust and routine maintenance is imperative but now I love them. I've had multiple falls and in every case both boots released. No issues with ankles since. One sidenote: it seems the upper body impacts are harsher during a fall as compared with other bindings. Almost seems like when I release there is more of an angular momentum into the water because of the sudden release after a buildup of potential energy. If that makes sense.

Thanks a ton all.

@jjackrash and @Zman: So I checked the strainer and sure enough there are air bubbles and the gasket isn't seated correctly. Great call!! So, forgive my ignorance here, but can i just wait for the engine to cool then twist the clear cover off and reseat the gasket OR do i have to drain something before I remove the cover? Clearly not a gearhead!!! Thank you.

Good input. Thank you.

limp mode sucks

Thanks @mbabiash. 2013. Good thought. If it's just a threshold issue, shouldn't be something that puts me at risk for catastrophic failure in the short term. Odd that it only happens with heater on.

I am getting the following warning but ONLY when I have my heater on. If I Ieave the heater off, no warning ever. Engine temps fine, no funny smells, coolant level ok, running like a charm otherwise. Any thoughts? Am I ok just running it with the heater off until my next service and have them look at it then or should I take it in now? Thanks much.

Thanks all. PTM it is.

Replacing our SN200 mirror. Thinking of something wider than factory mirror. Suggestions much appreciated.

In this longliner's humble opinion, @Than's proposed alternative isnt that far fetched particularly for novice skiers wanting to advance. The issue was kind of covered in THIS THREAD several years ago and has been foundational in my advancement. A l5 offer who continues to pull long almost certainly will remain a 15 offer. Anyone who is half an athlete and has spent any time on a ski can eventually muscle their way thru 15 off. However, continuing that method disallows progress. Muscling thru by pulling long puts you in a horrible position at the ball, puts you out of position for the lean, which disallows enough speed to transition at the right time...and so the pattern continues stuck eternally at 15 off getting all six buoys with the wrong form. For many, taking a step back and missing some buoys to create the right form might not be a bad idea! Most of you who post on this site are so good that this 15 off transition struggle is one that you've forgotten because you crossed it when you were like six years old!!! :) But for us mere mortals who lurk, this is a really big deal. I personally, for both myself and my kids, have found that the timing of the transition might be one of the most important elements for advancement because of the downstream ramifications of doing it wrongly.

@wish...great reading list! I'm still blown away by both!!!

Ok...so I had to post this after skiing this am. HUGE lightbulb moment upon trying @matthewbrown's advice above and I hope the advancing long liners on this site will take the time to read thru and implement that advice. @Horton's oft repeated advice to 'stand tall' was absolutely huge in correcting my 'dragon ass' poor stack. Importantly however, what I think I've learned thru @mattbrown's advice is that as the line shortens, it is quite possible that 'standing tall' can be overdone to the point of stiff legs that can become detrimental. Bear with my hypothesizing here: I think (and could be wrong), that this stiff/static position forces the skier onto the back of the ski when coming off the second wake resulting in an abrupt edge change AND too high a roll angle too early. Being back on the ski allows/forces a steeper roll angle earlier that then forces a narrow path. (bindings too far back only excerbates this! Moved my bindings forward..Thanks @skijay) With 'looser', driving, dynamic legs/knees, the transition became almost automatic and I found it much easier to get up on the front of the ski earlier which I believe prevents a premature high roll angle and allows the ski to carry outbound. Don't get me wrong, I have a long way to go but I'm thinking something big just clicked here!! many sincere thanks @matthewbrown and all who posted advice.

@matthewbrown ...might be the most profound advice I've read! Gonna have to work thru it a bit in my head and on the ski but makes sense. Also fits w what I see in great skiers....static upper body, dynamic lower body. Now, to get my body to do it. Sincerely grateful for your time.

thanks @gmut. I hear what your saying and will definitely work on it. I guess maybe I should rephrase my question posted to @matthewbrown above. handles to hips, hips forward, ski back to handle....those are actually things ive been working on and understand, even if I don't do them well. my confusion is this: when I look at my still shots at the first white water, I had thought i was reasonably well positioned on the ski, albeit with more work needed and not as intense as I should be. Are you guys saying that I am in fact way off on my stack at that point OR are we talking about something different, namely a hip move in initiating/driving either a) the turn or b) the edge change/cast?