1993 Indmar winterization trouble

[Andrew jackson]

Trying to winterize Indmar 351 for the first time. Drained block and manifolds, disconnected raw water hose and fed it into a bucket of antifreeze but it appears no antifreeze is being sucked in??? Tried taking out thermostat and same issue, what could be going on? I understand I can pour antifreeze in through the thermostat housing but why is the bucket method not working? 
 

[Ski_Dad]

Just pour it in the hose you are trying to suck it out of the bucket with.  That is what I do.  

[DW]

Pump probably needs a throttle burp to prime it.  Just as easy to fill from top.

[Mastercrafter]

You may need a new impeller or have an air leak somewhere on the suction side of your raw water pump.  It should pull antifreeze through no problem. Maybe a throttle blip as DW mentioned but shouldn’t take much. If it’s not working well in a bucket, it’s not working well in the lake. 
 

One thing to remember is that unless your engine is warm and thermostat is open, your antifreeze just goes straight out the exhaust and doesn’t really fill the block. Taking the thermostat out before sucking it up, or pouring it right into the block is the better way in my opinion. 

[BigRed]

Up here in northern Wisconsin, our show ski team winterizes the two inboards by just letting the water drain-no antifreeze back in. Been doing it over 20 years this way and no issues so far in the spring. We just keep all of the brass plugs out of the boat from the water pump and manifolds, leave the knock sensors out of the block and keep the seaweed strainer off .  Also important to disconnect the hose from the heater core if your boat is so equipped. I personally forgot that one in a rush to winterize one year and learned the hard way the next spring. 

[Rednucleus]

I also add the step of hitting all the drain holes with a shop vac to assure no bockages and well drained. For heater core, I have a T fitting low on one hose for drainage and shop vac access.  I would also put a little oil/grease on any threads left open to limit corrosion.

[DvarianDan Johnson]

A big +1 for @Mastercrafter comments- as your engine MUST be warmed and tstat OPEN before you pull in antifreeze. Can’t just haul to your driveway and have it suck antifreeze as it may well have cooled enough to close the tstat. 

[LOTW]

Be sure to stick a nail or something in each hole to be sure they aren't plugged and water is still in the block or manifolds. I've noticed a lot more rusty pieces of metal from inside plugging the holes and not allowing all of the water out last few years.

[thager]

Had a 93 Hydrodyne with Indmar. No suction required. Warm engine. Drain all water. Reinsert all drain plugs. Disconnect raw water hose from water filter on engine side. Insert large funnel (about 1 ") into hose and fill with anti-freeze to hose top. Have 4-5 gallons anti-freeze ready to go (Cap off, seals removed) and start engine. Immediately pour 4-5 gallons go anti-freeze into engine. Turn off engine immediately. Reconnect hose. Check that all other hose clamp points and drain points drip anti-freeze. 

[LeonL]

I like to keep antifreeze in the block to prevent rust.  It also prolongs the life of the impeller as its also lubed for start up in the spring.

[BraceMaker]

Which hose did you pull off?

Sort of sounds like you're trying to put antifreeze in the out hose.

Here's a way I typically set up to use a garden hose and a bucket to run the boat or if I need to do water once its up to temp I drain the water out and fill the bucket with antifreeze I run it like this so if I shut the engine off the hose water overflows not into the boat keeping my carpet dry, also keeps there from being a lot going on in the boat an dI can look in the bucket to make sure we're all good.

 

 

[TomH]

On 9/15/2024 at 10:48 AM, DvarianDan Johnson said:

A big +1 for @Mastercrafter comments- as your engine MUST be warmed and tstat OPEN before you pull in antifreeze. Can’t just haul to your driveway and have it suck antifreeze as it may well have cooled enough to close the tstat. 

OP mentioned he drained the block/manifolds, so the block will just fill through the circulation pump regardless of the position of the thermostat.  If it's not pulling the anti-freeze from the bucket, you either have a failing/failed impeller, air leak, or need a blip to prime it.  This all assumes you're on the correct hose.  Personally, I find it quicker/easier to just pour in from the thermostat housing.

[Mastercrafter]

7 hours ago, TomH said:

OP mentioned he drained the block/manifolds, so the block will just fill through the circulation pump regardless of the position of the thermostat.  If it's not pulling the anti-freeze from the bucket, you either have a failing/failed impeller, air leak, or need a blip to prime it.  This all assumes you're on the correct hose.  Personally, I find it quicker/easier to just pour in from the thermostat housing.

Good point. I forgot the thermostat regulates the water out of the block, not into it. 

[B_S]

I'd start with a new impeller.

[BraceMaker]

12 hours ago, Mastercrafter said:

Good point. I forgot the thermostat regulates the water out of the block, not into it. 

 

This is why when people ask how many gallons to winterize they are hoping by slurping up 3 4 5 gallons of pink antifreeze through the intake that the job is done.  But with a closed thermostat a good deal of that RV antifreeze gets pushed out the exhaust.

I just ditch the drain petcocks in favor of hex head pipe plugs and have swapped out hose clamps to T bolt hose clamps everywhere that needs to be removed for winterizing