Baller Fam-man Posted September 4 Baller Share Posted September 4 The back floor panel on our 98 Ski Nautique is starting to get soft after years of people stepping into the boat at the same spot. I'm specifically referring to the removal floor section behind the engine cover. I am looking to replace it this off season and was wondering what others have used that is light weight and durable. Would probably cover it with a material like sea deck for foot comfort and faster drying compared to the current carpet. Thanks in advance for suggestions and experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DvarianDan Johnson Posted September 4 Baller Share Posted September 4 Why not just simply add a layer of fiberglass to the existing panel? Strip the carpet off, get some good quality biaxial weave cloth, epoxy resin, simple. No need to create a new panel. Cover with your choice of material. Will last you another 15-20 years . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller JAS Posted September 6 Baller Share Posted September 6 Agree, exactly what we did to our 99. Has worked out well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Fam-man Posted September 6 Author Baller Share Posted September 6 Thanks @DvarianDan Johnson and @JAS. To clarify, did you add a single layer or multiple layers? My first thought was that a single layer would not be stiff enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller brody Posted September 6 Baller Share Posted September 6 I have replaced that panel on 3 different malibus at this point. All have aluminum composite flooring. I ended up using 3/4" plywood. I stained it and then placed a layer of fiberglass overtop to waterproof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ DW Posted September 7 Baller_ Share Posted September 7 (edited) My approach was one of weight reduction, so I made a panel using a foam core and wrapping in carbon fiber. I added a rib on the underside to add stiffness. Cut the weight in half. I did same with platform, finished item is just under 10 lbs w/ brackets. You can do similar and use marine plywood as the core. https://www.boatoutfitters.com/coosa-composites-board?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADyfhhcizCV88wUyuYODzN4ekhFKG&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8--2BhCHARIsAF_w1gxt-jXE1YtRQjmzI0b3cnNHckH6KXAdwKeIXwKCRq2thkWN8OPgLwsaAmSXEALw_wcB Edited September 7 by DW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DvarianDan Johnson Posted September 7 Baller Share Posted September 7 @Fam-man- strip the original panel and sand it to rough up the surface. Apply 2 coats of epoxy resin to all sides, then 1-2 layers of cloth again with good epoxy resin . I used 2 layers of cloth on all my flooring and panels but mine are wood. Doing just the panel is a simple project. Should give you good service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller foxriverat Posted September 7 Baller Share Posted September 7 Do a search for aircraft grade aluminum honeycomb panels. Depending on how big a piece you need they are not that expensive. My buddy did his Malibu floor panel with this. If I remember he used 2 thin ones sandwiched together to get the thickness he needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LeonL Posted September 10 Baller Share Posted September 10 Quickest, easiest, least expensive.... just get you a piece of treated plywood in the proper thickness and put some carpet on it. Twenty years later, repeat. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted September 10 Baller Share Posted September 10 Mine has a plate of starboard (MC) and it is HEAVY. A few years back I took a sheet of pegboard and screwed it to the back and then drilled pilot holes through that on a grid and nascar drilled them from behind. Still heavy. If I do it again I'm either going to fiber wrap some luan or do plywood raw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller sunperch Posted September 11 Baller Share Posted September 11 https://coosacomposites.com/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=organic This is what we used to replace the same area 10-12 yrs ago. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skibrain Posted September 11 Baller Share Posted September 11 @brody Did the same for my buddy’s RLXi over the past winter. • Remove honeycomb panel • Remove carpet from panel and clean for color-matched re-use. Toughest part of project. • Match thickness of panel (I glued and clamped a couple sheets of ply together. • Prime and paint. • Reattach carpet with adhesive on top. Wrap edges and staple on bottom. Sealed frayed carpet edges with clear silicone. Done. Stronger than new. Had materials on hand. Weighs maybe 5-7lb more but that’s a non-factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ DW Posted September 12 Baller_ Share Posted September 12 Food for thought - that section of the boat more than likely gets the most water dumped on it from platform ingress at the end of your set. If you plan on using marine plywood I suggest sealing it, treat it as a core material and cover with epoxy resin and cloth mat (carbon or fiberglass). I do not subscribe to the just a few pounds has no effect, it does. You wouldn’t feel the wake is better with low fuel (transom tank) if weight was irrelevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skibrain Posted September 12 Baller Share Posted September 12 @DW agree we run 1/4 tank gas or less, and always remove rear seat for that very reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ReallyGottaSki Posted September 12 Baller Share Posted September 12 Shown here is std 3/4 cdx ply, epoxy & glassed, sanded. 1/4" polypropylene strips to level with floor. one can sand the polypro to get it exactly even. Zero perceivable flex. i would not call it heavy in this form, that said i don't think treated is needed, if you prepare similarly and keep the boat somewhat dry. SS t-nuts to fasten the engine cover, so not to rely on wood screws. Didn't know then that i had access to all the 1/2 and 3/4 coosa 11 minutes from my gf house. i don't regret using ply then, but would have used coosa, if i had known it was so accessible there.. The interiors of these boats is heavy, with all that polypro backing. wakes were substantially more awesomer on the minimalist-interior test runs. we're tempted to get another clapped out example and build a 'barefoot special' or club boat, with just eva on the gunnels, no trunk, just a low coosa step to shelter the gas tank, or go to a bow tank. The low and narrow stepover to the platform would be awesome . but, lots of other projects between then and now. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DvarianDan Johnson Posted September 12 Baller Share Posted September 12 @ReallyGottaSki - very nice. Yes simple - epoxy, glass etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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