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What do I adjust to get rid of this movement?


bhs
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  • Baller

Can't tell if your toe loop is bent forward or not.  The boot doesn't really change.  I would get a new toe loop and release to be safe.

With the potential of a devastating injury you can't think of the monetary cost.  Just do it.  I change things out every 2-3 years even if there is nothing wrong.  Just to be safe. 

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  • Baller_

As I watch, it appears to be the wrong toe loop for the shell.  Looks like you can lift up and down on the toe of the boot and it appears the boot does not slide in enough to eliminate free play.   Verify distance between toe & heel binding parts is correct.

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  • Administrators

On the bottom of the plate / at the back / there are 4 screws go into the blocks that hold the release. Are there many sets of holes very close together in the plate so you could move the release forward 1 set of holes? The old plates all had that. The new ones do not.

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  • Baller

keep the plate and the toe bar and change both the boot and the release and the play will go completely.

1 minute ago, skialex said:

keep the plate and the toe bar and change both the boot and the release and the play will go completely.

I meant buy a new release and a new boot. Both your plate and toe bar are of the latest era with no extra holes and no way to use the wrong holes by mistake… (didn’t sound that right… 😂)

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  • Haha 1
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  • Baller

Move the toe loop back or the rear piece forward as long as you have adjustment holes.  When looking at the adjustment holes, move the piece (loop or rear apparatus) that helps center the binding on the plate.    Once changed, check the tension to release on land.  

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  • Elite Skier

Be VERY careful. Moving the toe loop back to the wrong place and still managing to clip it in is going to have the clip at the wrong angle and end in pain. From what I’ve found there can be multiple reasons, if there is a slight indent worn into the boot where the toe bar sits then replace the boot. If there is no wear then move the clip forwards on the block. There are two holes in the block that attach the clip to the plate (where the bars hinge on the plate). Moving this will be the small adjustment you need to tighten things up. If things are still loose then you need a new clip and boot (probably). Again be careful, and all of this is at your own risk…

one final thing that isn’t very common is you’ve worn an indent in the plate and again, this allowing for things to slacken off. This happened to me on a trick plate after a few years but is going to take a lot of skiing.

good luck

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  • Baller
23 hours ago, C5Quest said:

Take the loop off and remove the spacer.  Done.

 

It does look like there are spacers between the toe loop and the posts. If so, those should be removed. Assuming the spacers are not there and that everything is in the correct locations, I agree to start by moving the release to the forward holes in the mounting blocks. If that doesn’t do it, you need to figure out if it’s because the boot, release, plate, or combination are worn.

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  • Baller

Spacers are for the newer super shell.  Remove the spacers for the older classic boot.  this is the first thing you need to do.  then worry about moving everything around.   Remove the toe loop.  unscrew the "feet".  remove the spacers, screw the "feet" back on.  Remount and adjust tension from there.  But the larger toe loop is your first problem.  

 

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  • Baller

It looks like @DW is correct but hard to tell on that camera angle, you may have the wrong horseshoe by the look of it. The higher/loopier one suits a super shell, the lower/flatter/squarer one to suits the classic. The spacer works perfectly fine in mine per attached pic, no movement whatsoever with same shell.

IMG_0347.jpeg

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  • Baller
17 hours ago, OldboyII said:

Or new plate with loop & release  that matches this boot.

G10 Plate and loop don’t wear out that easily. The carbon plate might do but this is a G10 one. The assembly doesn’t look new, so I can imagine that when new,  there was no play or not that significant one in order to notice it. I suggested to change the boot because when it gets scuffed it develops some play, also suggested to change the release, because by moving the arms to the front hole of the bases it doesn’t look enough to eliminate play. The stainless steel arms sometimes get a little straightened and that Leeds to some more play in conjunction with a scuffed boot.

so you can go ahead and buy a complete system or just a new boot and a new release.

There is only one 4-10 G10 plate so you can not go wrong whatever boot you are using, classic or super shell.

size 12 plate is also the same for all shells but it has extra holes for the release mounting, so you have to be more careful when assembling it.

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  • Baller

First or all, be very careful as @RobHazelwood said, and whatever you adjust, do it being sure you are placing everything where it should be for your boot size, as per the design/instructions.

After zooming the video, I believe you have the release in the forward hole in the rear block (see again @RobHazelwood’s comment). If so, seeing the amount of play you have, it might be a combination of moving the horseshoe one hole back, and the release to the block back adjustment hole, due to the toeloop being in the wrong position for the boot size. Look at the installation instructions to make sure what is in bold is really the case. Some newer plates have the boot size marked in the bottom, in front ot each hole. 
 

FWIW, I was a Reflex dealer for a number of years. 

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  • Elite Skier
4 hours ago, C5Quest said:

Remove.The.Spacers.   It’s should give you the toe down tension needed when you latch the mechanism.  Adjust from there

Only issue I have found with this is yes it fixed the problem temporarily but then it just compresses the boot at the toe where you’ve added the pressure and you’re loose again. The spacers were needed for the classic boots for a few years before they increased the size of the horseshoe so it’s not a 1 size fits all.

something else I tried ( I was every picky about no movement for tricks) was taping the sides of the horseshoe, I found this moves the boot back slightly (adding more tension into the clip) without wearing away at the toe of the boot and be a SLIGHTLY more long term fix untill you get a new clip. So essentially does the same thing as taking away the spacer (move the boot back) without the extra pressure on the toe of the boot

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  • Baller

I worked on my Reflex boot quite a bit to get the fit and feel I wanted and won't likely change it until I wear it out.  However, the discussion in this thread is a pretty good advertisement for the HO system.  Ski partner got one this year and loves it.  It looks superior in a number of ways not the least of which is the connection at the toe of the boot.  

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  • Baller

@RobHazelwood I wasn’t aware of the classic shell ever needing the spacers.  In that case don’t listen to me 🤷🏼‍♂️. I was going off my own issues I’ve had in the past.  
on another note ….when are we going to get more of your instructional YouTube videos?  They were money and right on.

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  • Baller

The spacers have been present for a number of years, far before the classic shell was “classic”, to adjust for boot size. 

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