2004 ProStar damper plate replacement

[swbca]

We have two dealers in Minnesota that work on Master Crafts.  Neither of them will try to fit my boat into their schedule to replace the damper plate.  Midwest, the big Master Craft dealer no longer performs more than simple service tasks such as Winterization on any boat over 10 years old.  They say they have 200 boats to get ready for spring.

So I am back to doing it myself.  The last time I did this was on my 1975 Ski Nautique (decades ago) and it was simple, performing the task while the boat was tied to my dock.  It didn't require any overhead lifting equipment.

I think I only have one question.

Is it necessary to disconnect rubber exhaust piping to perform this task ?   If so, does the rubber pipe need to be replaced.

[Mastercrafter]

You'll likely need to disconnect it. It needs to move quite a bit and you'll probably just pull a hose off somewhere else if you try to leave it. 

Old exhaust tubing is tough but work some WD-40 into the joint with a screwdriver and eventually it should wiggle off. 

If it were me, I'd saw-zall the tube in half,  tilt engine, then pry the tubing off and replace with new 🙃

[Lars]

If your biggest concern on replacing the damper is the exhaust hose, I saw you're more than ready. wd 40 is the way to go, did that when I had to get the manifolds off. 

[bananaron]

@swbca I know many dealers are starting to do that.Did you contact Nisswa marine they are the other MC dealer.

[buechsr]

Agreed on just cutting and replacing the tubing.  Maybe the lower part as well to mufflers.  1) they're stiff as hell as they age and 2) can be broken down from heat internally such as the case with an overheated engine causing obstruction.  Not saying yours has overheated of course, just that with time and prolonged heat, it's the perfect time to just do it.

[swbca]

@Mastercrafter

I just visited the boat where its stored.

1.  The rear floor section is 6" behind the shaft coupling on the transmission.  And the rubber pipe connections to the mufflers are accessibly with the floor in place.  Is there any reason to remove the rear floor section?  Its one piece with the doghouse making it difficult for skinny old guys to get it out of the boat. 

2.  Is there any reason to separate the transmission from the bell housing ?  I think I left the bell housing and the transmission together the last time I did this.

3.  Are the 24" rubber exhaust pipe sections ordered by the foot, or are they Master Craft parts

I am comfortable with the engine alignment process.  On my 86 Master Craft with Power Slot, I replaced the strut with a 1" deeper strut Master craft used in '87 because of prop wash hull vibration with with shorter '86 strut.  That made the hull very quiet until my son dinged my first perfect prop.

Edited March 21, 2023 by swbca

[swbca]

@bananaronI didn't know about Nisswa.  The Correct Craft dealer in Cross Lake said he could squeeze it in if I brought the boat in this week.  They are 3 hours away and I couldn't do it this week because our car with a trailer hitch is gone this week.  Labor is about $2000 where ever I go, so Ill save that for gas.

[bananaron]

@swbca Ck with Malibu store in Excelsior they might do it and their shop is west of the dealer......

[Andre]

Any indboard dealer can do the job. I would even say a good and handy car mechanic could do it.I did mine on my 94 and it was easy.

I removed transmission and lifted a bit the back of the engine i think...after you're only a couples of bolts away from damper plate.

It's more a 6 pack job then a 2k job for sure!

[BraceMaker]

I've never had to pull the exhaust tubes.  I like to remove the prop so it doesn't get wanged into the rudder.  Then decouple the shaft at the trans, disconnect the trans cooler, shift cable, neutral switch wiring.  Then I remove the trans mounts from the stringers and unbolt the trans from the bellhousing.  

Then I go in and remove the bellhousing separately together they're just too heavy and unwieldy separately either part is manageable with out a crane and solo.

[Lars]

The doghouse unbolts from the floor with 4 nylock nuts, its a little tricky getting back into place solo, but separating them makes it a little easier to move them out of the boat. 

 

[chrislandy]

It's really easy, I did it a few years ago in about 2hrs but had one extra pair of hands. , disconnected the propshaft, removed the exhaust hoses for ease of access and disconnected any cables etc, then just undid the bellhousing to engine bolts and separated the two. Swapped in a new R&D Marine damper plate and bolted everything back up again.

[DW]

I'm too 'economically conservative' to just cut the exhaust tubes although after I wrangle and cuss getting them loose, that's the time I find blisters in them LOL.  WD40 and having them above freezing (you are in MN and I presume it will be July 4 before you climb to 32 F) will make them easier to remove.  My replacement gauge is any blisters / cracks on the inner surface.