2014 CC 200 engine upgrade project

[RichardDoane]

We checked the engine box fit yesterday, and it still fits, but we’ll have to adjust it a little to the right because of where the ecm locates on the new 6.0

[RichardDoane]

Clearance for the front belt cover would adversely affect it, so in this application it can’t be used. The original power train didn’t have one anyway, so not a big deal. As always, care must be exercised when running the engine with the box or lid not in place. Rotating belts/pulleys are dangerous things. 

[Mastercrafter]

Thanks @RichardDoane — makes sense and I appreciate the pics and info. 

[MDB1056]

Personally I prefer to not have a cover over the belt and pulleys . A standard step each day before running is a visual inspection under the box, which should include your belt(s) . Can’t see anything with that plastic cover on . Owner should be fine with it I’d expect. 

[skiinxs]

The plastic covers break at the mounts a lot, but the purpose is not safety around the belts.  They were put on to prevent water ingestion into the front air intake.

[jimski]

@RichardDoane@RichardDoanewhen we need a re power we will defiantly be bringing it down to you 

[KRoundy]

No belt cover and on my 2016 with the H5 engine. Thanks for showing the details on the shower hookups!

[RichardDoane]

as an old school boat engine guy, I hooked up the heater hoses the old fashion way, hot from an exhaust manifold fitting, and returned it into the raw water intake.  with the 6.0 engine all i would have had to do is take off the u-shaped hose at the left front lower, and use those fittings for to/from the heater core.  

[RichardDoane]

[RichardDoane]

Just remove this u-shape hose

[RichardDoane]

 

 

[RichardDoane]

@Horton- that's a cool feature about adding videos, no need to post to youtube in advance !

Edited March 16, 2023 by RichardDoane

[MDB1056]

@RichardDoaneGreat so see it running! Need a test run video on the water next 

[AdamCord]

@RichardDoane you’re doing a great job with the Hilltop club boat! I also can’t thank you enough for scheduling the engine swap for when I’m at out of the country at Ski Paradise 😎

 

Can’t wait to ski it when I get home

 

 

[RichardDoane]

It’s a good Monday morning. 

[RichardDoane]

[RichardDoane]

Test drive at the lake this week, @AdamCord needs to ski. Tim at ZO said the software version is correct. 

[RichardDoane]

Just need to make the final wiring harness bundle/connector, and put the engine box back in. 

[RichardDoane]

 

 

[RichardDoane]

 

@Gloersen  when we upgraded the boat a couple years ago to RevS, we did do a re-flash with the e-com file, but this new 6.0 power plant assembly includes a new ecm that comes ready to go from PCM

[Jody_Seal]

probably a dumb question, you did make sure and tell them that your utilizing the console display mount set up when you asked for a file? side mount i think they call it.. like said probably a dumb question,

accelerometers care how they are oriented.

 

Just wandered through the shop after a few days away and one of those new 6.0's wrapped in a nest of plastic just manifested it's self on my shop floor....... Back to work.

[AdamCord]

Success 😃😃

[RichardDoane]

@Gloersen  thanks for the info. ZO sent me the new .mot file for upgrading. That boat will be ready for an initial oil change next week, and we should have the new prop by then.   I’m looking forward to skiing behind it, after all the working on it.   nice pic from Adam Cord. 

[jpwhit]

So the final answer appears to be that a different ZO calibration is required ?

[RichardDoane]

yes, refer to the chart that @Gloersen posted above, 6.0 calibration is a different file than the original 5.7, we'll see what @AdamCord thinks about the change net week

[RichardDoane]

It’s had a week of break in use, this afternoon is first oil change, ZO update, and Acme 668 install. 

[RichardDoane]

Out with the old, on with the new. 422 before, 668 now. 

[ColeGiacopuzzi]

Curious to see what you guys think with this boat being a 6.0L. the 668 felt like a freight train pulling you down the lake with the 5.7L. 422 was the way to go.  @RichardDoane @AdamCord

Edited March 30, 2023 by ColeGiacopuzzi

[RichardDoane]

Seemed like there was a lot of water in the bilge. Now I know why. Those were a new hose kit from Heatercraft. I guess they just don’t make things like they used to. 

[RichardDoane]

Hose clamps are not glamorous. But work better than the cheap tin collars. 

[RichardDoane]

@ColeGiacopuzzi  I’m sure we’ll get the full report from Adam Cord. 

[Kelvin]

@RichardDoanea good prop shop can re-cup the 422 from 0.105 to 0.150 and make it into a 668 as a backup.  I've had it done  a few times.  Works great.

[RichardDoane]

Timmy at ZO has been super helpful with all my needs over the past couple weeks, great technical support and customer service. 

[S1Pitts]

16 hours ago, RichardDoane said:

Seemed like there was a lot of water in the bilge. Now I know why. Those were a new hose kit from Heatercraft. I guess they just don’t make things like they used to. 

@RichardDoaneI changed out the hoses c/w mixer last fall with new ones and they did exactly the same thing! All 3 leaked! I put back on the original 1997 hoses and leaks are gone. 

Next time I venture down to Spokane I am swinging in to return them personally.

[DW]

@RichardDoane - you must not have specified where you wanted the water outlet. 😅

[KRoundy]

Finally getting my own HeaterCraft shower in my boat. For those who have tapped into that u-shaped hose for the hot water feed on the PCM engines - I already have a heater line installed there. The hose goes up under my dash to the heater core and comes back. Should I just tap into that same line? Which side? I have no idea if the outlet or the return is forward.

[S1Pitts]

@KRoundy Mine as well as most I have seen use the block drain port on the side of the block to get the hot water. I used the appropriate brass male pipe thread nipple with the hose barb end matching the blue hose size. In my case the passenger side of the engine but I have seen them on either side.

[KRoundy]

@S1Pitts Oh, hey, that’s a pretty good idea. So to be super clear, you taped right into the block and just removed the PCM blue drain hose? Got a photo of the setup by any chance? I know some older boats didn’t have the blue drain hoses and you just had brass plugs you removed every winter, so perhaps that is your setup? 

Also, update to my comment above, I found an image in the PCM owners manual that shows the outlet is aft and the return is forward (closest to the belts at the front of the engine).

 

[S1Pitts]

@KRoundy Yes that is correct. I did not have the drain hoses just pulled the brass drain plug and replaced with a nipple. Upside is I just have to disconnect the red hose from the shower temp valve box and lower it under the oil pan to drain that side of the block.