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SN200 Boatmate Trailer Fix


paul
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Thought I'd detail the fix that we did to our trailer so that others have an easier time than we did.Boat: 2014 SN200, trailer 2016 Boatmate single axle

Background:When we purchased the boat it was evident that the front strakes were rubbing on the trailer. Searching around, including on this forum, there was a fix from Boatmate that included shimming the bunks and installing a roller infront of the fins. When we contacted our dealer who inturn contacted Boatmate, although they had installed this fix on other customers, they would not do anything for us and we couldn't even buy the parts from them to install it ourselves.See the other threads for more info:https://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/10455/trouble-getting-sn-200-on-trailerhttps://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/26254/ski-200-and-boatmate-trailers/p1https://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/21306/boat-mate-trailer-problems-ski-nautique-200-obhttps://ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/23113/boatmate-trailers

Solution:With the help of @PatM , we designed the fix ourselves. Here's what we did:

Shim the bunks:

  • we installed 3/4" UHMW shims (3"X3") between the bunks and their supports for each bunk supports except the very front supports. A total of 12 shims are required
  • Our bunks were lagged in so we had to buy new 3/8" X 2.5" SS lag bolts. I was worried about the extra 1/4" of length into the bunk so we ground off 1/4" from the tip of the lag bolt. A total of 24 new lag bolts are required as there are 2 per shim
  • we match drilled the UHMW with a 3/8" dia drill and then drilled the holes to 1/2" off the trailer

Roller:

  • Attaching a roller to the trailer cross member wouldn't work for us as the fins come past the second cross member so we needed to make an adjustable frame for the roller as per the pictures in some of the other threads
  • to measure, we loaded the boat onto the trailer all the way up with the shims installed. We measured the distance from the front cross member to the fins which was 39" I believe. For height we ran a string line on the top of the 1st and 2nd cross member. The distance from the string to the keel at the location of the roller was 5.25"
  • We then reverse engineered the roller bracket from the pictures. I've included the fabrication drawings in the attachment. All you need to do is check the measurements and if they are close you can use this design which has all the parts
  • the only deviation from the drawing is that we didn't end up using a 5/8" SS bolt to attach the roller. We purchased a roller shaft from Tie Down. Is zinc plated steel so hopefully it lasts. We got it long (15") and we will just cut it to size.
  • To install, this weldment just needs to be welded on centerline, flush with the top of the cross members
  • Our plan is to weld the tube onto the cross members with the boat off the trailer. We will then set the roller as low as it can go. The boat will then be loaded and the roller brought up to the bottom of the keel and nuts tightened. Then, the next time the boat is taken off the trailer, the roller will be raised 1/4" and the nuts tightened well.

Note: Pictures courtesy of others as we have yet to weld this onto the trailer

trailer roller8.JPG

trailer roller7.JPG

trailer roller3.JPG

trailer roller2.JPG

Thanks again to @PatM and let me know if you have any questions.

Edited by paul
reinserted pictures
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@paul About a month ago I had contacted Boatmate about getting a trailer built for my 1992 Ski Centurion BareFoot Warrior outboard. The reply was "I don't think we can help you". I was floored by the response. It would be a easy build single axle, no rear cage for the prop, shaft,or rudder. So now the search continues.

Ernie Schlager

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@paul I'm glad the fix worked for you. You really put it together professionally so others can get a clear idea of how to fix these trailers. After fixing mine it really has been a great trailer with some nice features.

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@VONMAN just Google aluminum boat trailer and your zip code. Find a local shop that sells one of the many I beam or C channel trailer brands that have universal bunks. Then drop your boat in the water and take your eagle trailer to the shop and start measuring using the axle centerline as a reference point. Then go back the eagle into the woods on your property put it on blocks and cover the tires and tarp it well so if you get low ballers on your boat when you sell the boat you go well it's 15 with the Aluminum trailer or it's 10 on the factory one.

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I've been searching for a new boat trailer for my 92 Barefoot Warrior outboard for 4 months and getting nowhere. Seems nobody had any data for my 92 or even when they were offered the boat for sizing they wouldn't touch it. Well things got worse. The last week in December I found a crack in my hull. Upon further discovery I found the trailer that was made/bought for the boat wasn't designed for the hull. The bunks were never under the stringers and when I lived in Michigan I didn't trailer it much because I lived on a lake. Here in Florida I trailer back and forth to the lake all the time. The center support on the old trailer was right over the axle like a jack hammer to the hull.

Good news, went to J-3 Fiberglass in Ocala on January 3rd, worked out a price and a Date of repair about 10 days out. Left there to find someone to build a trailer for me. Same morning, 2 hours latter and my 3rd trailer shop latter. I pull in at Redline Custom Trailers in Ocala and ask if they can build me a trailer. "Yes no problem" they say. I explain where the bunks have to be with 2 outer bunks at the rear. We agree on a price but they had a boat show the weekend coming up and will start on it next week. I leave the boat and old trailer with them. On January 10th I get a call from Redline, "the trailer is done come a pick it up".  Morning of the 11th I pick up my broke boat on the new beautiful trailer. What a difference in the ride, tracks straight and seems to float with a torsion axle. Oh and it looks good to. The following Monday I drop off the rig a J-3 to  get the hull repaired and that Friday I pick up my boat, ready for another 30 years. (I should live that long, Ha!)

Moral of the story: How sure are you that you trailer is supporting your boat. If it's a boat manufacture that builds in-house trailers it should be good to go. But unless you swim under or can lift the hull to inspect it you my never know. If you have a boat with a off brand trailer, check to make sure your bunks are supporting the hull under the stringers if you trailer your boat a lot.

 

IMG_2378.jpg

IMG_2379.jpg

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Ernie Schlager

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Unless you are launching on a very slight angle launch, the roller does not work.  On a steep ramp, the boat is at water lever whereas the trailer is on the bottom of the launch.  how can the roller possibly work, to keep the chines off of the bunks.

I know this from experience; I have the roller, and it does not work.

Dan

 

 

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A few more pictures of different trailers with 200’s:

new 200 with Phoenix trailer

New 200 with Phoenix trailer
 

53C0F20B-3396-40A6-A0F4-CA1B9CEACA4E.jpeg

2022 200 Boatmate trailer

B0C7B336-68C0-40AE-B0C3-8932CCBAC7F3.jpeg

 

2012? Ramlin 200 trailer

F4180858-F8CB-4177-8C40-C62B5ACD286D.jpeg

 

and not super applicable but just for reference a 2022 Ski Nautique Boatmate Trailer:

9B4667FC-BBFD-4E68-96A0-77001A73374B.jpeg

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Just an update on how this works and to reply to @dan1166, the roller works very well but we have a shallow launch. You can feel when the boat gets on the roller and there is a lot less friction. So very worthwhile for our application but I agree, in a steep launch, it wouldn’t work nearly as well.

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