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Trailer Bunk Carpet


FSSPCat
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Hey all. What is the least expensive place to get bunk carpet? I just replaced mine a couple of years ago and need to do it again.

 

On a related note, what is the best way to cook squirrel? One lil fella is going to be meeting the business end of the .22.

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@FSSPCat try boatcarpet.com. Not a good idea to use indoor outdoor carpet. It is very abrasive on the hull. And the answer to your second question is smoking after marinated in a soy ginger works great. Just look out for the bebe from the .22. I, sure you know it will crack a tooth. That’s the way we do it here in the south. .
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Sorry to high-jack... but for those that have a boat on a lift, any reason to use carpet over the wood bunks? Unless the water gets low before we turn the pump on again, we don't drive/powerload the boat on/off the bunks.
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The last set of bunks I refreshed I sanded all of the 90 degree corners to ease the edge a bit more and put two layers of carpet on when I recovered them. This seems to reduce the wear and tear on the carpet and my gel coat quite a bit.

 

Regarding squirrel, my redneck in-laws recommend pan-frying with garlic, green onions, mushrooms and a little olive oil.

 

@igkya I would still carpet lift bunks that touch gel. I’ve seen some wear from bare wood but that was on larger boats and probably not using an ideal bunk location/angle. I’m not sure if it’s the wood against the gel that caused scuffing or if it was from sand trapped between the hull and bunk.

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Blisters can definitely occur from boats left in the water for extended periods. Fiberglass is porous. Carpet is just a softer surface against the hull vs raw wood . Indoor outdoor black carpet from Lowes or HD is fine.. installed mine last roughly15 yrs ago. Still great.

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So this winter, I am going to tackle new bunks for my 2006 SN 196. The Ramlin trailer is one where the bunks sit along top of the frame. As such, I assume that there is no way to carpet the bunks before installing, unless I want to pierce the carpet to set the lag bolts. I don't want to do that. The holes in the carpet would just create a weak point for it to later tear.

So, I assume the process is to install the bunk wood, then carpet them after they are in place.

The trailer currently has no carpet. It has a PVC dock trim double D style mounted to the bunks. It seems to work. So, I have searched and Gatorback seems to make a legit solution for bunks.

FWIW, I found the following advice, which would apply regardless of the bunk covering:

"Remove the carpet, remove the countersunk bolts, some if not most will snap, get some new treated 2X4's and new screw bolts. Don't try to screw into the existing trailer holes, drill new ones, add the countersink and then screw the new bolts in. My experience in redoing multiple Ramlin trailers is that they do not put enough screws into the bunks. I double the number when I put them on. Loading the trailer, especially when you power on, puts tremendous lateral force on the bunks as the boat moves forward up the trailer. This is when the bolts break and putting in extras will make the bunks much more secure."

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@ToddL you put the carpet "half"on the bunks with the Ramlins before you install the bunks. That gives you a nice finished look along the outside edge of the bunk because the staples will actually be underneath the bunk on the outside edge. Then you install the bunk and flap the carpet over the top and staple on the inside edge. That's the factory-correct install.

I found perfect quarter inch self tapping stainless hex bolts on McMaster-Carrs website.

I ground the old bolts off flush- impossible to remove otherwise- then treated the frame with POR-15 and then gloss black paint.

I would not add more bolts like the poster you quoted suggested. These frames don't need more holes in them so I'd strongly disagree with that idea.

I've done this on two RamLins so far. If it isn't done every 7-10 years the trailers will rust through and then you will need a new trailer or major welding work.

Note on the 200 trailer the front bunks are 1/2" taller than the rear bunks and the very rear of the bunks ramps up about 5/8". It's a huge job to replace properly.

I used treated 2x3" from Menards which worked perfectly.

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@ToddL Provided the wood is fine here is what I did on my RamLin trailer (2005 SN 196) since the original bolts were so rusted I knew I would never get them out. (BTW, I would gladly pay $50 more for a trailer if they used stainless steel bolts for their bunks). I left the existing carpet on the bunks since it only had a few small tears. I then installed the new carpet over and let it hang down on the sides about 1/4" below the bottom of the bunk and attached the sides using stainless steel staples 2 or 3 inches apart. Its been over 10 years and zero issues. The double carpet layer has allowed the new carpet to hold up better due to the extra padding. My ramp is rather flat however which helps.

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