Baller david_quail Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 Including 55s. About 10 to 20 feet of water. Any recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller addkerr Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 @david_quail what's the lake setup. Big lake? Shore access, or have you banks close by to the course? You say permanent but does it need the option to be moved or sunk at some point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LOTW Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 Our Acufloat stays in all year. We sink it in the fall and pull it up in the spring, stays up for about 5 months. Very little maintenance really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Stefan Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 http://www.ez-slalom.com/heavy_duty_cable_courses.html I have an EZ-slalom portable course but they also have this heavy duty option on the link above. Very good company service wise in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller david_quail Posted May 18, 2020 Author Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 @addkerr big lake but I have shore access for most of it. Needs to be sunk every September. I’ve used ez slalom before and really liked them but don’t think they’re available :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 I like the Wally set up for modular repairs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 @david_quail If you have someone who can SCUBA, use one of these to anchor one end. Then use some weights on the other end. I went one step further. Once I had the course right where I wanted it, and anchored at one end with the auger, I put a second auger in the lake bottom about 20 feet in from the weights on the other end, and right below the anchor line. I then pulled the anchor line down and into the auger eyelet. This guarantees you don't change the centerline of your course whenever you have to tug on it for tension, like if the lake drops. We also use underinflated Wally buoys for the 6 turn balls with 4 lb weights attached to the end of the pipe below them. This keeps the buoys with the 'equator' just below the water surface. The buoys are then soft and more safe if you hit one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller markn Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 Have had floating courses in our lakes for 20 years. After the accu-sink course, we used Insta-slalom and now have relied on Accu-float. One of the main advantages of Accu-float is you can replace each cable section should one fail or be cut. For achors, we found if the lake bed is sand, the augers are fine, if muck, not great. Even though I dive, I actually used very heavy weight with a drag anchor attached. Once it settled in, it has not moved...even through hurricanes! Have a psuedo-pully set up at one end for tightening or losening the course (for repairs) if needed. Course sits in 12-18 feet of depth. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Andre Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 Another vote for E-Z-Slalom! Ed is great to deal with and can customize any course! https://www.ez-slalom.com/heavy_duty_cable_courses.html I used the SS mainline for our permanent floating course13 years ago.We had to recrimp it after 7 years cause our water was eating away alu( SS ?) crimps.We switch to cupper with great succes! My ski finish in 16.95 but my ass is out of tolerance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Jetsetr Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 Permits??? Or private water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Orlando76 Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 I’ll agree augers aren’t the greatest in muck. Our lake is sand on top but must be muck underneath. I found paralleling two augers perpendicular to main line about 2’ apart, join with chain then used a come-along to pull main line tight, bunch of weight on other end. I usually find a construction site where the plumbers cut the slab for drains. Unlimited supply of ~18”x18”x6” concrete slabs. 4 or so of those anchored together is great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skierjp Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 Accufloat all the way. One key is the length of anchor line. I'm in 15' of water and my anchor line is 200' on each end. Mike Suyderhound made my anchors out of the same cable the course is made of. I use screw anchors like in the post above. I also have a worm gear winch on one side to tighten the course. My course is so tight you can barely pull the cable to the surface at mid course. The lake can fluctuate 6 or 7 feet with no need to tighten. This is due to the long anchor lines. This also gives you a reference point on the bottom of the lake to install 55 meter bouys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted May 18, 2020 Baller Share Posted May 18, 2020 We have used Accufloat for 35 years with a big boat anchor at one end about 200' of stainless cable at that end and then at other end we have more stainless cable that feeds through another screw in eye about 200 feet away from course and turns toward shore at about 45 degrees and we have another screw in anchor about 5 feet offshore and goes up to a trailer winch mounted on what would look like the front of a trailer and that is set in concrete in the ground. We just winch up when water drops. We release tension when we sink for winter. Super easy to keep the course tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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