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Recommendations for Remanufactured Engine


georgert
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I need to replace the engine in my boat. I was looking to order a 5.7L 350ci remanufactured engine from Michigan Motorz. There is an option to order roller cam/roller lifters for an additional $300. Not knowing that much about engines, does anyone have a recommendation as to whether or not that would be a worthwhile upgrade? As I live in the mountains the ski season is essentially late May to mid-September and I'm getting three, sometimes four mornings a week behind the boat.
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@georgert - Can you add some additional info? Year of boat will help a lot to determine what spec small block you want. Roller lifters are standard marine for several decades so unless pre 90 boat it will have roller lifters. Another key is if the boat is 96 or newer it will have Vortec cylinder heads which increase Hp from 280 to 310 (slight variations depending on which marinizer did the engine. The newer heads also have a different bolt pattern for the intake manifold and different exhaust port shapes. Intake manifold will be specific for which carb/FI and some marinizers did their own.
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@DW Man, you're asking questions way over my pay grade. I'm going to have to check the engine block for the casting numbers because I have no idea how old the engine is. All I know is Michigan Motorz asks whether or not you want that upgrade in the purchase. Also, the shop that will do the install is telling me to get a long block. Currently the two engines shown in the size I need, one is pre '96, the other post '96. That roller link option shows in both cases, so it appears as if it's up to the buyer to decide what they want to do.

 

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@georgert - What year is the boat under the assumption the engine was the original one although your comment implies it may not be. In reality, the block will bolt up no matter what year so if it were mine, I would go with a post '96 version if you can. That may depend on whether you have carb or FI in terms of how easy parts swapover will be. I would certainly go roller lifters as depending on the configuration, the solids may require periodic adjustment.

 

Edit: just went to MM website and I realized a key question is what engine rotation do you need, in other words is it a reverse rotation Nautique? If not, the price difference really suggests the post '96 configuration as only $50 more, that's pretty cheap hp. If it is reverse rotation, prices vary a bit more.

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@georgert all you need to know is that the cam pushes on a lifter that pushes on a rod that pushes on the rocker arm which pushes on the valve stem.

 

A roller version has a bearing that rolls on the cam lobe versus a plain flat lifter where oil film on the cam lobe lubricates the motion.

 

Roller can be more aggressive Cam lobes while plain need to have oil with high zddp content which protects the cam and lifter. Only zddp has been getting pulled from oils in the catalytic world so you have to shop for good oil.

 

Roller is sort of a no brainer (except my 5.3 in my truck has wiped a cam lobe go figure)

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Generally speaking, a roller cam motor produces a bit more power as the lifter "rolls" along the camshaft. A non roller cam motor has a hard surface contact area between the lifter and camshaft. As noted, a non roller cam engine requires oils with higher zddp content.

 

 

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There are 4 types of lifters:

Solid lifter: need to be adjusted periodically-not used in any current marine engines.

Standard lifter: hydraulic operation needs no adjustment

Flat Tappet lifter: basically the same as a hydraulic lifter

Roller Lifter: a roller follows the cam shaft lobe, a more radical cam profile can be followed, and a SLIGHT increase in Horsepower due to less resistance/friction. Some need to be adjusted, some don’t. Depends on application.

 

All cams except a roller needs zinc in the oil for longevity. A bottle of Lucas Zinc Additive is about $12.

 

Pre 96/post 96 has to do with the intake manifold bolt pattern. They are NOT interchangeable.

 

Hope this helps a bit...

 

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I really appreciate everyone who has offered information/advice. It's been very helpful. I'm just getting back into water skiing after many years away from the sport. I competed back when dinosaurs ruled the earth, but trying to make a comeback. However, first I have to deal with all the boat mechanical issues that just keep coming.
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Cool boat...the old stuff, while old and without the whiz bang goodies are just COOL.....all the brands had their differences in appearances/personalities...

 

Personally I would probably not drop the extra coin for the roller cam. In a marine application like yours really no advantage. The zinc additive isn’t an issue. If you lived closer to WI I would do the swap for you. I’m getting pretty good at this boat engine swapping thing. They’re easy to work on. (usually work on turbine engines, but have a lot of experience with supercharged alcohol and nitromethane engines).

 

My new engine for my Malibu is from Michigan Motorz, awesome to deal with no BS. PM me if anything I can help you with....

 

How do you KNOW you have to replace then engine??

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