Administrators Horton Posted October 14, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 14, 2019 easy button? Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 14, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 14, 2019 I just gave myself a dislike for a stupid idea Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted October 14, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 14, 2019 Does your "dislike" show up with no indication of the cowards I.D? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 14, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 14, 2019 @thager Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller h2onhk Posted October 14, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 14, 2019 I'm a little confused. The whole course sits in 3-4' of water and the rebar has been driven the into bottom like a stake to hold each of the buoys?? Or is it just the turn balls? How far is the rebar sticking up out of the bottom, 6", 12"?? the skier is potentially less than 3' away from impalement? Trying to think of ideas but I first have to fully understand the current situation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottleeds Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 My first slalom memories were at your parents lake in about 1988. Sad to see the lake change hands. Regarding the slalom course, seems like the easiest solution is shorten the rebar with a hack saw. Then use rebar clamps to tie your sub buoy line on. You can also use rebar caps to cover the cut ends. It will take some time, but it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ MISkier Posted October 14, 2019 Baller_ Share Posted October 14, 2019 @Horton, those are both "Disagree", not "Dislike". And, I think some of us cannot see the avatars when it is Dislike or Disagree. I know I can't. I see only the counts for those ratings, not who actually generated them. The worst slalom equipment I own is between my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted October 14, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 14, 2019 I don't see the owners of the disagrees or dislikes any more. Assumed the Admin wanted to keep identities hidden so as not to get into cyber bullying or some such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 14, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 14, 2019 The deal with the dislikes is off topic but I don't really know why we see him sometimes and we don't others. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 14, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 14, 2019 @scottleeds I'm not sure what the diameter is but it is pretty thick so the idea of cutting it is very unappealing. I really don't know what I'm going to do. The lake will not be changing hands. My mom doesn't have any intention of leaving the property anytime soon. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DavidN Posted October 14, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 14, 2019 A couple rebar clamps and a bolt cutter. Easy, quick and cheap. Put clamp on, attach rope/cable for the buoys and cut the rebar above clamp. Something like this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 @DavidN I think that's a pretty smart idea but the rebar is close to half inch thick - definitely not the skinny quarter inch stuff. I don't know if bolt cutters would do it. I'll be out there this weekend for my dad's memorial and I will take a second look at the thickness but I think he installed the super beefy stuff 50 years ago. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 @Horton Wear a rubber suit and use a sawzal with a diamond blade. Take video! >:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 @DavidN holy crap I just did a search and realized there si such a thing as a hydraulic rebar cutter. that may be exactly the solution. Of course that means I will the operating a hydraulic jack cutter in zero visibility water but how hard can that be? Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skimtb Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 Can you just bend the rebar over so it points down? May need to make a tool to do that if nothing exists. Then clamp to the vertical part where it comes out from lake bed - that is presumably in the right spot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DavidN Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 @Horton - just a matter of using the right tool. I’d choose that one over using a sawzall under water all day long. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 I was in visioning the old school bolt cutters I used when I was a kid to remove padlocks. there's no freaking way I am strong enough to do it that way but I find some 3/4-in hydraulic cutters for like a hundred bucks. That's freaking genius Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmyjamesbrown Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 >:) Cutter sounds like the way to go, there are tools specifically for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Cnewbert Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 1/2” rebar? Just bend it 90° flat against the bottom. Slide a 6’ length of maybe 3/4” ID pipe over it. With that much leverage it should bend like butter quick, easy and very cheap. It would be a fraction the effort of cutting it no matter what you use. And you could still use the still firmly anchored but no longer sticking straight up rebar as buoy anchor points right at the point of the bend for the new course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 @Horton and @Gloersen $69 at Northern Tool for hydralic rebar cutter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller jimski Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 Any thing left standing fairly straight after 50 years should be fairly soft and or rusty. Uses a 3/4 or 1 inch inside diameter pipe slide it over top of the rebar and bend it back and forth a couple times and it should snap off at the ground level. Then just pound the stub in the mud. Worth a try this weekend I my self would find some one handy with a welder and make a puller that sits on the bottom with a long pipe and pull it all out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller jimski Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 How far away from the shore line are the anchors Put a strap on the rebar and move your tractor into place and use a come along to pull them out or just use the tractor bucket and a strap to pull it out Lots of good ideas here show us the video I wouldn’t want it left in either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Cnewbert Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 @jimski, I suggested something similar a couple of posts before yours. Except I suggested just bending them flat against the bottom where they pose no harm nor any chance of impaling a skier, but still might make good anchor points for a new set of buoys. Of course if they are so rusted they break when bending flat, then it might be best just to break them all off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 @jimski the cycle time of swimming in and out and climbing up and down off a tractor makes that a horrible process. Anything repetitious you do in the water you basically need a work barge where you can have all the stuff you need to complete the task ball by ball, because it is a huge effort to move to each ball x the whole course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skimtb Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 I’m still curious what “cold” water means to @Horton. Here, you walk or play hockey on cold water in the off season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 So this weekend I'm going to go out there with a stake puller and a hydraulic rebar cutter. There is one or two stakes that are completely unnecessary and are super scary. Those come out Friday. Those come out before a boat goes in the water.The long term decision is to remove any rebar that is not 100% necessary. For anchors that that are actually part of the course I'm then going to evaluate if cutting them off a few inches off the bottom, install safety caps and then rebar clamps suggested by @DavidN It has occurred to me that after I cut off a piece of rebar close to the bottom now I have a newly sharpened spike as opposed to a 50-year-old blunt spike. it is also occurred to me that in the process of bending or cutting the old rebar it may break leaving me with rusty sharpened spikes. considering there is literally zero visibility in the water I am giving some serious consideration to safety. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ RichardDoane Posted October 15, 2019 Baller_ Share Posted October 15, 2019 Just don’t forget the rules Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 You can buy dedicated reo bar benders that would bend past 90 degrees. If they bend and don’t snap you could possibly bend it like a hairpin and attach the sub bouy to that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyoung Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller 76SS Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 A tetanus shot should probably be the first thing on your list. @Horton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Mateo_Vargas Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 A true restoration would require pulling out that metric slalom course and replacing it with an imperial one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 @Mateo_Vargas imperial course is still there. I'm not sure which anchors are which but there's definitely two sets side by side. The boat guides will never be perfectly straight because some of the balls are imperial and some are metric. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Jetsetr Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 Not going to matter if you get impaled on blunt or pointy rebar it has the same unpleasant results...and it’s not pretty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 @Jetsetr yep. That's why I'm fixing it and probably not going to let hardly anybody ski there even when it is fixed Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller JaredSmith Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 Let me get this right @Horton, are we talking about the first ever man-made ski lake built in the world? Nothing is worth doing unless done right, especially this lake! Take everything off of the bottom of the lake then do as suggested by @Bruce_Butterfield and use 18" x 18” square 4” thick concrete blocks with stainless steel eyebolts and pvc holes on opposite corners to pin to the bottom with rebar. Yes this is some work and expense but I'm sure you could get it all done for free if you just ask then let those that do the work ski for free for a negotiated period of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 15, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 15, 2019 @JaredSmith you are welcome do come do this work - I will not. I plan to use Horton Lake just a few times per year. Fixing it right is simply not worth it for me. It is too shallow to ski on seriously besides I live on a lake that is 8 feet deep, has a RC course and is where my boat lives. Even the minimum amount of work I am going to do may really be a boondoggle. In the next few years we will likely put the lake on the market and I will recommend to any prospective buyer that they drain and re-dig. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller JaredSmith Posted October 15, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 15, 2019 Not for me since I don't live close to the area but I'm sure there are people who do. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Dirt Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 Horton talking about doing work has been amusing. Like @MS talking about not drinking beer, @skidawg talking about turning in his guns or @thager talking about not making funny smarta** comments anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 16, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 16, 2019 like @dirt not pissing off co-workers, supervisors, lake owners, judges, drivers or random citizens Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller rico Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 16, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 16, 2019 @rico point taken Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Onside135 Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 The most expensive slalom course is a ski! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Stevie Boy Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 If you think it is too shallow and do not intend to ski on it much , probably not at all, why not just pull the rebar to make it safe and sell it to somebody who will redig and make the lake really useable, instead of slowly being taken over by nature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller mmskiboat Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 @Horton I'm sure you have thought of this but when I have worked under water I wear gloves to reduces risk of cuts. Also after years of white water kayaking water cuts from rocks would get nasty fast it not cleaned well. Here are some amazon ones: Gloves 1 Gloves 2 I also would protect your feet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Mick04 Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 @Horton, are you planning to attach a temp buoy to the each rebar before you work on cutting it? Attach as close to bottom as possible, cut right above it. I can imagine “losing” the stub of a sharp freshly cut hunk of rusty rebar, then having to feel around for it in 0 visibility. Yikes, even with Kevlar gloves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller LeonL Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 After reading all the ideas it sounds like bending over flush with the bottom and connect your buoy is best. The suggestion to put a marker buoy down first is good, in case it breaks off. @Horton in your first post you mentioned "cliff" of 9" at shoreline? That would simple to grade out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller KRoundy Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 Is the rebar a grid that is laid across the bottom of the lake or it is just individual pieces of rebar driven into the bottom? If the later, I think your original idea of a puller is good idea. Attach, wiggle back and forth quite a bit and pull. I'm guessing it will come out with a reasonable amount of effort - depending upon how long they are and how they were pounded into place. We are all going to want a lot of video of what happens. Plus - prayers for you and your family at the memorial. Hope that everyone enjoys celebrating a life well-lived. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted October 16, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted October 16, 2019 @LeonL if while bending the rebar flat it onto the lake it breaks off I then have razor sharp spikes sticking up off the bottom. Goode ★ HO Syndicate ★ KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes ★ Baller Video Coaching System Become a Supporting Member or make a One-time Donation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller klindy Posted October 16, 2019 Baller Share Posted October 16, 2019 @Horton if it's breaks off so easy bending it over, you're unlikely to be able to pull it straight up too. If it does break off, I'd recommend having someone with a welder make up a device using a 3-4" 3/4" pipe nipple with a cap on one end. Then weld a piece of round bar or pipe to the top of the pipe cap. The bar/pipe should be long enough to extend out of the water. If the rebar shears off, slide the open end of the pipe nipple over the remaining stub and drive it deeper into the mud. At least it will be out of the way. The relatively short pipe nipple will allow you to get it on top of the rebar and keep it from sliding off. It should be able to get deep enough into the bottom without being too difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gold Member wski1831 Posted October 16, 2019 Gold Member Share Posted October 16, 2019 cut the rebar(bolt cutters should do it) Sleeve over it with a pipe. The pipe protects from rebar and if u have threaded end you can add a piece so you don't have to pound it underwater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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