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Hoist / lift bunk setup for 2014+ Prostar


skimtb
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What is everyone doing? Typically you match the trailer, but not so easy with a two bunk lift...

 

The lip on the bottom of the hull has me a bit nervous to mount to much pressure on it.

 

Going outside of the lip seems too wide and not as stable?

 

I’m debating adding 2x6 to top of bunks with big gap for the lip on bottom of hull. Overkill?

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@skimtb I pull my boat up until just before the bunk touches that convex contour in the bottom of the boat. The first time I did it I thought the boat was too far back on the bunks but 2 years later it has not been an issue.

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@MichaelWiebe Thanks - that is a good data point. Likely what I’ll do first, just a bit nervous to have them so wide i guess, especially in the front.

@Zman The prostar has a weird bottom, hard to see in pics.

@Horton My lift is a freestanding type and I’m not sure about having the boat that far “back” on it vs sharing load front to back. The bunks are 12’ long, so it would be way back.... how long are your bunks?

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With a free standing cantilever I too worry that that far back may be an issue. I also don't think i can get my bunks high enough in the front to keep the center v clear of the front rail of the cradle, that would also rob me of quite a bit of needed space in the fall during lower water levels. I've got ideas but there's sure to be some fiddling over the next couple weeks.
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I'm traveling for two weeks currently. I'll measure it when I get back. The width is matched to the outer flat runs. It's a little narrower in the front. The height is the same for both front and rear.

The boat is lower to the cradle now, so there is no "fail safe" for the fins or propeller not hitting the cradle. Not hitting relies on proper operation, by ensuring the cradle is low enough for entry and exit. And the correct boat position when lifting.

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I’ve not put boat on yet, but after a lot of measuring, I’m going @MichaelWiebe style and have the bunks set at 60” in back and 54” in front. The front is 2-3” higher than the rear (will depend on your bunk supports)

The 60” rear matches the rear outer trailer bunks.

I think There is another solution to double up the bunks at 34”, and have a “gap” on the top bunk approx 28” long for the funny lip on the bottom of the hull. This would clearly be more work....

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Might be missing something here but couldn’t you just add a build up of 1/4”- 3/8” to the bunk in front of the rear bump down of the hull, or whatever the correct difference in height needs to be?

That way the hull is supported just like the trailer. Just have to make sure to have a stop or make a mark somewhere to make sure it sits at the right spot front to back on the bunks.

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@Dacon62 Yes, that is what I meant by doubling up the bunks, but I think you need more than 1/4”, easy answer seems to be just adding a 2nd 2x6 on top. Maybe 1x6 deck board would work too, would have to re measure.
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You guys have me worried I must be doing something wrong. I have a Sunstream cantilever lift and use the bunks at factory settings and try to get it level as possible. Seems to work fine. I have bow guide so it is basically in the same place on the lift every time.
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@rayn Seems most people are doing as you say. I’m just really really picky....

The new trailer has 3-4 sets of bunks (depending how you look at it) to accommodate to hull shape, so finding a setting for 1 set of bunks to “match” the trailer is not easy.

Due to the fact many are not worrying about it and having no issues, it could be waste of effort / time.

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@3mustskiteer I haven't measured it but it's the standard width that comes with the Basta lift.

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My set up is actually different from all common approaches. The front of my bunks are wider at the front and narrow at the transom. Much of this was based on the trailer setup and by just looking at touch points on the hull that are flat. It has a funky bottom hull. I also want my bunk as close to the keel as possible
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I would think that bunk locations on a lift are much less important than a trailer given there is no dynamic forces involved with a lift. From a structural aspect, so long as there was no interference with hull features, I would advise the bunks to align with the boat stringers.
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I’ll also point out that from garage floor measurements, the rear (at 60”) appears to need to be 13” or so above the crossmember / cradle (top of bunk to top of cradle) to not contact the skegs.

Front (at 54”) needs to be approx 15-16” higher than crossmember.

I didn’t look at prop, rudder, strut as I don’t plant to pull the boat on that far.

Still have not moved mine to 63”, but will and then take a few pics. Need rain and wind to stop. Terrible spring.

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I ski with a MC engineer and he said the traditional bunk placement is fine. The water channels are reinforced. I've had the bunks in the same place for years and the new hull has not shown any effect after 2 years on the lift.
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@skimtb Thank you for pointing me to this thread. It's VERY helpful. For others here. I was having the exact same issue as described in this thread. I moved my bunks to 54” and 60” and it worked great. All is well now. Thanks again.
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