Jump to content

DBski HOT ROD UPDATE 2


dbski
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Baller

It RUNS!!!!!!! Fired up the engine for the first time today. Once we figured out the clutch neutral switch it popped right off. If I had the gas pedal in it, it would be drivable right now. Getting to this point has been an exercise in frustration nothing my doing. If you're thinking of tackling a kit car just double the time anyone promises you for delivery of parts. I talked to the crate engine company in the fall and they told me 6 weeks to get an engine. I ordered the engine in November and they tell me 6 weeks. After numerous phone calls from me and excuse after excuse 12 weeks later I get the engine! Then they assure me the engine is set up for the Hot Rod and when we go to drop it in the alternator is mounted wrong. To install the engine I had to remove it and wait another week and a half for the correct mounting hardware. This made waiting 3 months for the rest of my parts from Factory Five a little easier. I'd get a few parts and was able to work a day or so and then back to waiting. Basically for a month and a half the car just sat there frustrating the hell out of me! It looks like it should be smooth sailing from this point forward as I have everything else to finish. Now the only problem is hopefully its going to warm up soon and I'll have to decide between skiing or working on the Hot Rod!csvhdndjcu6z.jpg

byvvmtyg1lvi.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
@Orlando76 I bought the engine from Blueprint engines which has an affiliation with Factory Five. I wasn't happy with the service I received but I'm am happy with the product. The engine I bought is just their base small block Ford as I'm a bit budget limited. It dynoed at 237 Hp and 317 torque which in a 2100 pound car should be ample for awhile. It's a carb engine which simplified the build. My long term plan is to upgrade with aluminum heads, more cam, and an 8-stack fuel injection. The engine has very nice dress-up accessories on it such as a 8-rib front drive and numerous polished items. I added the Cobra valve covers and also have the Cobra air cleaner. It's not on yet as I'm having a spacer machined to clear the HEI distributor. It's a complete package with engine and a Tremec T-5 tranny. I didn't want to use any used parts in the build so I bought a new rearend from Moser, expensive but very nice. It's a Ford 8.8 with limited-slip and 3.55 gears.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
Not a lot of elevation changes in Michigan! I took the Factory Five build school and they actually stressed its very easy to overpower the car. The car is designed for the Mustang rearend and width, so the 8.8.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
An 8 stack looks bad ass, but if it’s mechanical injection you WILL NOT like it...only designed to work properly at wide open throttle...if it’s a EFI variant should work pretty well...lots of experience on FI with alcohol sprint car engines, and supercharged alcohol/nitro fueled drag engines...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller
Defintely EFI. Borla has a system that looks just like the 4 Webers that was the hot set up on Cobras and GT 350s. They had a display at the Autorama in Detroit last weekend and it's the perfect setup for the look I'm going for. The only problem...$6200!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

Friend of mine has a 66 Nova, 3000 pounds-all aluminum 572 with a 10-71...dyno’ed out at 1520HP on race gas, has a hat style injector but is actually EFI...just turn the key and it starts right away and runs perfect. Tune it with a laptop. AWESOME....car is street legal (but it is a full tube chassis/cage with four link tagged to 7.0) runs 7.8 second 1/4 mile ET’s. Will post some pics when I can find them...a wolf in wolf’s clothing...HER son loves it when he’s picked up at school with this...obviously NOT a daily driver with a 5500RPM stall converter.

 

You will LOVE the EFI when you do it. Mechanical injection is a PIA...Wouldn’t worry about the strength of the rear end, unless you get a four link and some wide rubber under it you will just spin the tires at a certain point.

 

Manual trans was the way to go...it’s a driver so I wouldn’t take the streetability out of it...maybe a mild cam and the EFI at some point, but ya REALLY don’t need it...

 

ONLY thing I don’t care for is the roll bar hoop...tie that into the tubes behind it and it should have at least one diagonal (an X would be best) it has no strength the way it is now. Would be really easy to do, maybe that’s your plan. Now is the time to do it. Sorry to nit pic, but you want it safe.

 

Car looks great and will be a blast to drive...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

Reminds me of a truck project a friend of mine did.

 

vo79nsfazq5s.jpg

 

rivfd77orxxx.jpg

 

This Chevy was an earlier project he did.

 

ace1geshut0m.jpg

 

 

I'm not that into cars. I met him when I pulled up along side to check out his 67 Stevens flattie, another project he did.

 

ap7ybpvyayqj.jpg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Baller

@dbski Nice! Is there a thread somewhere that you talked about what your envisioning it looking like? I looked a little but didn’t find it. Was wondering what exactly the car is, also what color you’re planning? I paint cars for a living and work at a shop that restores classic cars besides just collision work. Just got done with a 69 mustang convertible last fall and a 31 Packard last spring.

 

1y3x0ypcza8t.jpeg

 

wpaamm3lp1wh.jpeg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...