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Blue Loctite To hold on bindings?


jakecuz23
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Has anyone ever use a blue thread-locker like loctite to hold on their bindings? I had a syndicate A3 with dual animals and the screws would constantly come loose. Would a thread-locker work on a ski? Would it damage the ski? Could it be used on the fin?

 

Thanks in advance!!

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I don’t think it’s necessary for the bindings especially taking into account risk of pulling out an insert. I definitely wouldn’t use it on the fin. Heck as much as my ski partners change their fin settings they’d create “The Great Loctite Shortage of 2019” come June.
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I use antiseize. Salt or brackish water demands this. If my screws are coming loose, either my insert is bad or the screw is stripped - or both. On particularly bad inserts, I've put some plastic thread or strips in the insert to make it tighter in the short term.

 

Check your screws regularly but don't overtighten them. Some plastic washer or foam plate base will act to lock the threads mechanically as long as the torque is right.

 

Loctite works badly with inserts on my skis - backs out my screw in inserts. Molded in factory inserts might be different. I'd use sticky pipe thread compound before loctite. Antiseize goes in every binding installation I do.

 

Eric

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I go out of my way to avoid the blue loctite. (Auto spell wants to change that to lactate!) It was on a previous ski of mine. That stuff along with scale build up over time makes it hard to remove the screws. I was worried about stripping the screw or fouling the insert. Now I use rubber washers to prevent screws from loosening.
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Try putting a bead of silicone between the ski and binder plate. Worked very well on the early Goode skis without inserts which would constantly pull the screws out. To remove, use dental floss between the ski and binder to cut through the silicone.
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I have tried green loctite which is a step down from blue. It pulled an insert. I have the screws with the aluminum finishing washers. They still come loose. I have gotten into the habit of checking them frequently. Keep a screw driver in the boat and just give them a snug between sets. I recently got a bunch of the Radar screws that have the rubber washer on them. Haven't skied yet this winter to know if it helps or not.
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Use a Grover washer (split washer) between the screw and normal washer. It works without risking damaging the inserts. Still you would have to check the screws but not as often as without the Grover washers. I only need to use one on the rear right screw of the front binding and one on the rear left drew of the rear binding, (LFF).

kd5942r4fafl.jpeg

 

 

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I don't use anything on my waterskis, I check the screw every couple sets. I run inserts on my snow skis, allows me to swap between alpine and telemark bindings quickly. On those screws I use Vibra-Tite. I have not had screws back out and have had good luck with inserts. I have pulled two inserts out while backing out screws but it was due to an epoxy issue with the insert. I couldn't get the proper epoxy and was itching to ski on new sticks and bought some other stuff from the local hardware store.
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So, not to hijack the thread....what glue/adhesive would you use to re-install an Insert?

 

I have a brand new insert from the manufacturer, but it seems like something you only want to do once or only can do once if it's a fast acting adhesive. Thanks

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@TustinTom JB Weld works well for me for reinstalling inserts. Better than my fancy laminating resin. An adhesive epoxy theoretically should be better (available at exotic snow ski sites in tubes - sorry no links) but I haven't used that yet. JB Weld impregnated steel wool is my choice if the insert hole is loose.

 

I do use a lot of JB Kwik for easy replacements. It's not as strong but I have had great results with that as well. I can get a repair done in a reasonable amount of time. Regular JB Weld requires waiting overnight for it to cure before removing the drive screw/jam nut needed for installation. Tricky repairs get regular JB Weld, easy ones or clean new installations get JB Kwik.

 

Eric

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I want to clarify that split washers don’t work with countersunk aluminum washers.

Also red loctite can be a guarantee of damaging your equipment. Once cured it’s impossible to unscrew, unless you apply heat. I use it when replacing buckles or repairing hinge rivets with screws on my hardshells and when changing disk brakes on my MX.

I can unscrew them only by heating with a heat gun or in the case of my MX by heating the screws with a blowtorch. Don’t want these near my ski inserts.

Also there is not only one red, there are few to choose of different resistances depending on the application.

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