Baller ToddA Posted January 18, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 18, 2019 Hey Ballers, I am looking to pickup a prop puller for our Ski Nautique, so that I have the right tools in an unfortunate opportunity of need. I have never needed to use one before, and in looking, there are the standard "C-clamp" styles, as well as the "harmonic puller kits.". Any recommendations as to either? Thanks for any advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller oldjeep Posted January 18, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 18, 2019 I've used both and I prefer the acme c-clamp style. Best bet is to just buy the weekend saver kit that comes with the puller, wrench, needlenose, prop bag and a spare nut/cotter. Just realize that the c clamp style are still designed to be smacked, they don't just pull the prop off on their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Wayne Posted January 18, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 18, 2019 Personal preference is the c-clamp style. I’ve heard a few cases of the harmonic style not working. If you ever shear a drive key off a c-clamp puller is pretty much mandatory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller swc5150 Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 No brainer...c clamp style, like the others have said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Orlando76 Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 I don’t remember my exact situation but I’ve had c clamp pullers not fit in between the blades of a prop. Probably a 4 blade prop and not certain of puller manufacturer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ALPJr Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 SkiDim hard case kit, with or without prop. Can't beat em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller oldjeep Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 @ALPJr that is a nice case. But it is an OJ case that you can buy anywhere, doesn't have anything to do with skidim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ALPJr Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 @oldjeep yes nice, and there's a discount on the case and tools if you get them with a new prop. I found it worked well when switching the prop on our PS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Bill22 Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 FYI- follow the direction. It’s not rocket science but one of my friends told me that when his prop popped loose it slammed the nut with a lot of force. If the nut was not still on the end of the shaft the prop could have hit him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gar Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 @ToddA I may have an Acme I’m not using if I can find it and you want it I will sell it for a good deal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ToddA Posted January 19, 2019 Author Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 @Gar sure thing! Just let me know if it works for you. Thanks! And, thanks to everyone for their thoughts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 Any prop that a harmonic hasnt worked on the c clamp style has struggled with for me. But I've also never owned a splined shaft boat. The theory of the harmonic works very well to unseat a tapered style prop, which when those are stuck is usually something strange going on. For splines I'm not sure a harmonic would be very effective since you sort of drag those off the splined shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Gar Posted January 19, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 @ToddA sadly have not been able to find it must have lost in in the move. Only used it twice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ToddA Posted January 19, 2019 Author Baller Share Posted January 19, 2019 @Gar no worries! Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PeterAK Posted January 21, 2019 Members Share Posted January 21, 2019 I'm in the market for one of these too. Why are the c-clamp style so expensive? Seems like it wouldn't require much more manufacturing complexity than a standard c-clamp. Any reason not to go with a harmonic puller? Seems like it could damage the drive line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller aupatking Posted January 21, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 21, 2019 I’m on board with the C-clamp and have never used the harmonic. I’ve used mine on 10+ boats. Only had to add a little propane heat once, to a prop that hadn’t been removed in 20 years and was probably too tight to start. Someone said it earlier, the weekend saver pack is great. Mine’s an Acme. I’ve got my spare prop in one side, puller, adjustable wrench, pliers, nut, and cotter pin on the other side. Used to have an extra shaft key but that one got “borrowed”. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ALPJr Posted January 21, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 21, 2019 I have a like new set up - hard case from SkiDim comes with with OJ tools and a perfect spare prop for a 90's PS powerslot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted January 22, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 22, 2019 @PeterAK it's not the complexity it is the quantity. The more raw forgings you can make at a time the cheaper the part, same thing when you fixture for machine operations like threading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Bill22 Posted January 22, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 22, 2019 @PeterAK I think because this tool is used on a boat it has a 200% markup vs tools for a car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wilecoyote Posted January 22, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 22, 2019 My .02. If you are talking a tapered shaft, and it's been properly lap fitted you may need to add heat. I went the extra mile with my prop, lap fitted it and they pre heated it before seating it. It was a bitch to get off. Made my own 3 bolt puller and heated it, I was beginning to think I wasn't getting it off. And as always, my personal PSA ... Lap Fit the prop when you put it back on. Poorly fitted props are responsible for a lot of broken shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PeterAK Posted January 22, 2019 Members Share Posted January 22, 2019 @BraceMaker and @Bill22 I bet you are both right! @wilecoyote I hadn't thought to lap fit my prop. I may do that this spring. Right after I acquire a prop puller... I wouldn't preheat the prop at install though, sheesh, no wonder it was tough to get off. @ToddA are you interested in @ALPJr 's offer? If not I'd like more info--but I don't want to step on any toes since this is your thread. Guessing the prop wouldn't work on your boat, but you could always sell it and keep the rest of the kit. That's what I'd be doing as I bought a new OJ and had them rework the OEM prop, which is my spare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller wilecoyote Posted January 22, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 22, 2019 @PeterAK I went the extra step and heated it because the one it replaced is somewhere on the bottom of the lake, and I just didn't want that to happen again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ToddA Posted January 22, 2019 Author Baller Share Posted January 22, 2019 @PeterAK go for it. I have a spare prop, and have a friend (thank you @Rednucleus ) that will get me his C-clamp style puller. Thank you @ALPJr for the offer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted January 23, 2019 Baller Share Posted January 23, 2019 Most tapered have cotter pin. For some reason many splined props have nylocks but if there is a hole I would drop a cotter in the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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