Baller Garn Posted November 2, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 2, 2018 I had my boat hooked up to Fake-A-Lake while I was winterizing it. As it was running I noticed that water was coming out of the propeller shaft right where the shaft comes out of the bottom of the boat. Is that something I've just never noticed or should it not be doing that? Do I have a problem? Let me reword that (I know I have many problems!) - does my boat have a problem? Garn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Jordan Posted November 2, 2018 Members Share Posted November 2, 2018 I assume that you have a shaft seal as opposed to a suffing box. the shaft seal has pressurized water plumbed into it from the engine for cooling and lubrication. Completely normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishop8950 Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Terrible thread title. Not sure if you need a doctor or a mechanic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Horton Posted November 2, 2018 Administrators Share Posted November 2, 2018 I agree with @bishop8950! This is not the right place to talk about your personal issues. Quote Support BallOfSpray by supporting the companies that support BallOfSpray California Ski Ranch ☆ Connelly ☆ Denali ☆ Eden Lake ☆ Goode ☆ HO Syndicate ☆MasterCraft ☆ Masterline ☆ Pentalogo ☆ Performance Ski and Surf ☆ Reflex ☆ Radar ☆ Rodics OffCourse ☆ S Lines ☆ Stokes About Horton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted November 2, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 2, 2018 Off day when the triple panda winner gives the serious answer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 What kind of boat have you got? Could just be that you have a water cooled shaft seal like most modern boats and there should be water running down shaft when on trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MISkier Posted November 2, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 2, 2018 I literally laughed out loud when I saw the title of the thread. Quote The worst slalom equipment I own is between my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 2, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 2, 2018 Penicillin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Garn Posted November 2, 2018 Author Baller Share Posted November 2, 2018 BWAHAHA! You guys are perverted! I have an 07 Moomba with a shaft seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orlando76 Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Pictures of where your shaft comes through the log? Hehe. From inside of boat. Yes 85% of the boats are designed to have water pass through here but ideally it’s a drip every 5 or 10 seconds, I forget which. Any quicker and you need it tightened or replaced. Whopping $15 item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller oldmanskier Posted November 3, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 3, 2018 I am still laughing about this thread title. Good to start the day out with a laugh. oldmanskier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Jody_Seal Posted November 3, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 3, 2018 I hate it when my shaft leaks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller lpskier Posted November 4, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 4, 2018 Try penicillin. Never mind. @thager beat me to it. Quote Lpskier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ALPJr Posted November 4, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 4, 2018 Yeah I thought this was the you know when you're in Mens 7 thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Garn Posted November 5, 2018 Author Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 @Orlando76 What do you tighten or replace? Is it on the outside of the hole where the shaft comes out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Garn Posted November 5, 2018 Author Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 Oops, I meant "outside of the hull"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted November 5, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 @Garn All shaft jokes aside; Orlando is thinking of the older type of packing box - which is a big brass or plastic nut that compresses strips of special rope called packing or stuffing, the rope is either goretex or a wax impregnated fiber, and the strips have staggered seams like piston rings so that when compressed they leak less. If your boat had one of these the only way it would be leaking out like that when running on a fake a lake is if your bilge was full of water and it would only be dripping. When these are set up you have to loosen them so they drip a bit, if you tighten them way down the force and lack of cooling water burns out the rope packing. But this is not what your boat has. For the past many years ski boats have come with "dripless stuffing boxes" like the OJ product or the Precision shaft seal system, these do not have rope and do not require that they drip for cooling. Some older generations of them did not have a cooling hose, but the vast majority now have a line that runs to them from the engines cooling system and pushes pressurized water out the shaft log to lubricate and cool the stuffing box. So because your boat (empty bilge on trailer) is leaking out the shaft you are seeing normal cooling water coming from the system and don't have an issue. Pretty common for older boats that haven't been maintained for people to complain about all the water coming into the bilge through the log - and this is usually due to the packing wearing and usually can be solved by tightening the nut that @Orlando76 is talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orlando76 Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 Meh, shows how often I get around new boats. That’s why I guessed at 85%. I didn’t realize dripless was now the norm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Garn Posted November 5, 2018 Author Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 @BraceMaker @Orlando76 Thanks so much guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted November 5, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 Unfortunately, once a dripless packing starts to leak, it is an involved repair. You must remove the flange at the transmission from the shaft - not an easy activity if your water is a bit brackish. If things come apart reasonably the replacement seal is not difficult but it's still complicated. Common problem with a challenging solution. You guys are all perverts. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I don't know about that - pretty simple, same process as replacing the propshaft or changing the strut bushings. If your water is brackish you have all sorts of additional problems with any repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted November 5, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 I think his point is, you can pick out the stuffing and replace it pretty easy. In brackish waters Id recommend the plastic box with the cotter pin. Those are basically hand tight and cannot corrode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members skidawg Posted November 5, 2018 Members Share Posted November 5, 2018 sounds like you need penicillin!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted November 5, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 @oldjeep Pretty simple? Pressing the flange off the shaft is not simple. Pull the engine out to get good access to the shaft and flange? I'll probably have to cut the shaft and buy a new shaft and flange to get to the $5 seal. Which only lasts a couple years. I've done the job on Stan's very freshwater boat. No problems but still a few hour job with his excellent tool selection. I'll fix mine when I don't need to ski for a couple weeks in case the flange is frozen. My bilge pump can still keep up. @BraceMaker is right. New stuffing is easy. Maybe I'll switch to that system when I pull things apart. A spiral or split seal would make the dripless reseal a reasonable maintenance item. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller thager Posted November 5, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 @skidawg Beat ya to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 @Eleeski you're doing it wrong - there is no reason to move the engine Disconnect flange from trans, slide it out a bit and remove the nut. Shove a small socket or piece of solid stock between flange and trans so that it will push on the end of the shaft. Install longer flange bolts and tighten to press the shaft out. Not a big deal. If it is a little stuck then heat the flange a bit with some MAP gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted November 5, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 5, 2018 @oldjeep Thanks for the heat trick! Your process is how I did Stan's. But Stan's was on pretty tight (cold). Mine will likely be worse. The heat might get mine apart. I might move the engine on the 04 MC but it's engine is blown anyway so will have to move. (Conversion to ZO on that boat if I don't go electric.) With the shaft out, I can get it in a press. I will have to remove the rudder to get a new shaft back in (or pull the engine). Non trivial. If your heat trick works, it is a doable job. Not easy. It's a huge job if it doesn't press apart. Even bigger if it warps the transmission flange. Every thing will be anti seized when it goes together so I will be able to fix it next time. Penicillin would be easier. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 @Eleeski - don't use antisieze on tapered shafts, it defeats the purpose of the taper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted November 6, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 6, 2018 +1 @oldjeep but loctite 660 is perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted November 6, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 6, 2018 Doesn't that shaft have a keyway? If I just apply enough for anti corrosion (as opposed to lube) I should be OK? I'm pretty sure I put a very thin layer on Stan's and it has worked for a couple years (he needs to replace the seal again). I've used small amounts on props with good results in the past. New nylock nuts were far more important than the anti seize for keeping the props tight. I'll never get it apart if it's a press fit. Already I have too much time in this project and I haven't even started! Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjeep Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 The key is a safety in a taper, not what is supposed to hold the force. Prop shafts are nothing, you want a tight taper try removing the hub from a 2 piece willys jeep shaft. I put a puller half way through the wall once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted November 6, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 6, 2018 Thread drift! Someday I will restore my 57 Willys truck. I'll approach the hubs with care. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BraceMaker Posted November 6, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 6, 2018 @oldjeep of course how many people do you see lap their prop tapers? Not everyone can be Keith Fenner, when perfectly lapped and keyed there shouldnt even be room for corrosion between a stainless shaft and a nibral prop. But since the world isnt perfect we can fill that gap with something. Loctite sells specific fit up products that if you are in a corrosive environment will seal and fill the gap, as well as release easily with a moderate amount if heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller A_B Posted November 6, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 6, 2018 Could have used this in the how to tell if you are in M6 thread.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members skidawg Posted November 6, 2018 Members Share Posted November 6, 2018 @thager. you must have more experience in that area !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members hockeyref74 Posted November 6, 2018 Members Share Posted November 6, 2018 When I read the title I knew it would go down hill fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Zman Posted November 6, 2018 Baller Share Posted November 6, 2018 Calling Dr. Howard, Dr. Fine, Dr. Howard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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