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What is this LeeSki?


Horton
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I guess I need to chime in here. I skied that ski for several years, got within a buoy of my PB (3@12m) in tournament and was quite consistent on it (average tournament score into 12m). Despite the wild appearance, it was a fairly normal performing ski.

 

The rocker, bottom, edges and profile were very conventional underfoot. Hence the conventional feel.The ski is ridiculously light from my ultralight trick ski materials and processes. The wide tip was an evolution to keep me from sinking the tip on the shorter skis I prefer. The tail was an evolution of an experiment that worked well for my deficient style. If I had a form break and ended up in the back seat, I was able to hold angle and get to the next buoy where I could often get back on balance. When I was in good form, I couldn't feel any difference (yes I did play with the profile with Superfil for comparison). The bindings are an adaptation of my sucessful trick bindings (I have now switched to Radar front (modified - of course - with a clip instead of the front hard laces) and a cuffless rear hardshell). The fin block worked but was a pain with no performance difference.

 

@richarddoane took a set and skied pretty well on it - but he is a very talented skier.

 

I have tried some wilder designs. If something doesn't work I'm quite willing to go after the ski with Superfil, a sawzall or a grinder until it works. That's the fun of it and since I'm right there score wise with a factory ski, why not?

 

Eric

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Reminds me somewhat of the early-early days, back before slalom ski designs had somewhat

settled down. This would have been mid-1950's. For example, I don't think it was conclusively

proven that 1 ski was superior to 2 ski slalom until Warren Witherell came along.

Boys Slalom at the 1957 Nationals was won by a 2 ski slalomer: Glenn Sperry. Back then,

there were some excellent skiers in Boys. Such as Chuck Stearns.

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@Nando Exactly. It was a bit difficult to build (allen bolts through the side of the back of the fin to threaded inserts on the other side). It was hard to adjust and didn't hold particularly well. There were no advantages in performance to the fin setup. It was an interesting experiment though.

 

Note that I like the very tail of the ski to be thick (I think it gives some lift to the tail to keep the tip down). The conventional fin blocks could be difficult to adjust (I would have to make cutouts in the tail buildup to get a screwdriver through). So the fin holder molded in kind of made theoretical sense.

 

Eric

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@eleeski hi, I have this idea of making a composite fin clamp out of a G10 block or maybe out of a Teflon block and use preferably stainless steel threaded inserts (rather than brass). I usually do these things during offseason but I haven't started it yet. I do not like aluminium parts and the idea of a ski with the only aluminium being the fin looks great to me.

I guess you have done this and I was thinking if you had any issues and if you have any suggestions on what to use or what to avoid.

It would be great hearing from you.

Alex,

P.S. Teflon is something that I can easily find; I have used it before on my MX bike and made heel blocks on my boot/Silvretta release.

 

 

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@skialex Fin blocks are pretty straightforward. Normally I use aluminum angle and tap threads in one side to hold it together. As long as I use antiseize on the threads it works pretty well. I'm not concerned with .001 adjustments so I place things by eye. Your teflon idea sounds good if you want to install inserts and screws to make those fine adjustments. Acetal might be better than teflon as I have tapped threads in acetal. Still, inserts work quite well in plastics. I use brass and have had no problems even in salt water (I religiously use anti seize).

 

My fin is carbon.

 

Eric

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@eleeski thanks for your response, I use silicon grease on the threads, use my air compressor to blow air and dry the fin, the fin block and the silvretta release and sweep them with a cloth and silicon spray. This makes my ski rust free and the fin clump looks like new for many seasons and I too ski on salt water about 40%.

I'm very careful with the bottom of the ski and my RTP, silicon never goes there.

I just always try to make improvements on my equipment which are usually more needed to my fellow skiers rather than my self.

I have everything on my mind of how to put the inserts, washers, fin adjusting screws etc and I have the tools, but I haven't decide what plastic to use, it all comes down to what is easy to find in Greece. What is the Acetal? I had made one out of Corian but it breaks when you try to bend it, so I threw it away.

@thager thanks, I Goggled HDPE, looks like Teflon, could it be the same thing?

HDPE might be what I need!

 

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