Baller DefectiveDave Posted November 16, 2014 Baller Share Posted November 16, 2014 Has anyone else had this problem? I managed to pop the mandrel head off of one of the rivets attaching the block to the rear of the boot during a nasty fall (see below). There was nothing special about the fall itself, just an kinda lame OTF crossing the waves after a some bad slack at 3 ball (34 mph/ 22 off). However, there was a significant delay in the release activation. This is despite the fact that the spring tension on my 750 silvretta is set to about 3 given some previous issues with the release. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Kelvin Posted November 16, 2014 Baller Share Posted November 16, 2014 Just drill it out and replace the rivet. I'm using some older 404 releases. To get the new boots to work, the block must be removed, turned upside down and re-riveted. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DefectiveDave Posted November 16, 2014 Author Baller Share Posted November 16, 2014 I've already drilled out the rivet and it appears to be 3/16" aluminum. I'm currently waiting to hear back from reflex to make sure it isn't some metric standard before I go putting a new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Deanoski Posted November 16, 2014 Baller Share Posted November 16, 2014 a t -nut from the local hardward store will work also/ Like Kelvin I use the older release and drill out the rivets and fill the block over but i use t nuts. easy fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DefectiveDave Posted November 17, 2014 Author Baller Share Posted November 17, 2014 Thanks @Kelvin and @Deanoski, Would you mind linking me to the t-nuts? I'm imagining something like this: http://www.threeballclimbing.com/hardware/industrial_t-nuts_for_climbing_gyms.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller mmosley899 Posted November 18, 2014 Baller Share Posted November 18, 2014 Lowe's carries those t-nuts in stainless steel. Mike's Overall Binding USA Water Ski Senior Judge Senior Driver Senior Tech Controller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller eleeski Posted November 18, 2014 Baller Share Posted November 18, 2014 Re rivet it or just get a stainless screw and nyloc nut. Stainless tee nuts should work but the ones I use have spikes which are a bit of a pain to remove (not really, just bend them back and the spikes break off. The hard part is finding the quality vise grips not the loose rusty old ones). Occasionally check the screw torque into a tee nut as there is no locking and they can loosen. Definitely don't lose a day of skiing waiting for the "right" fastener for that application. A stainless screw might be stronger than the plastic and is less apt to corrode away like your aluminum rivet. Note that it is possible to fine tune the release with modifications to the block. I don't know whether to warn you about the critical nature of proper block settings or encourage you to play with homemade blocks for your settings. Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller DefectiveDave Posted November 20, 2014 Author Baller Share Posted November 20, 2014 Thanks guys! I looked around at lowes and found some t-nuts, but 1/4" was the smallest and I would have had to redrill the hole. I instead ordered 5/32" x 0.8" aluminum rivets from fastenal which will arrive Thursday. These are very close to the 4mmx20mm rivets Reflex spec'ed for the location I called out earlier. Crossing my fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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