racerdjs Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Please see this thread, http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/9690/prostar-2014-for-sale/p2 page 2 with the pictures installing washers on the rudder and steering linkage. I did this today and my new Prostar is a very different tracking boat. Greatly improved and responsive. Thank you Chuck Dickey, you made my day. Quoting Chuck's post, "I drive lots of different boats, brands and years and my new ProStar is the best IMHO. I know there are rudder adjustments that can make this boat feel like it's on rails. I had the opportunity to speak with Will Bush and he told me how to dial it in. These picture show a couple of washers I installed to take out any play in the linkage. Worked great, thanks Will." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck_Dickey Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 You're welcome. The brains behind this tip is Will Bush. My boat tracks exceptionally well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller ozski Posted July 7, 2014 Baller Share Posted July 7, 2014 They can't sort something this basic from factory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller skihart Posted July 7, 2014 Baller Share Posted July 7, 2014 I saw the orginal post from Chuck but am wondering what exactly the washers are doing. Do they just take up some of the slop in the steering linkage. How do they help with the tracking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller MISkier Posted July 7, 2014 Baller Share Posted July 7, 2014 @OB, I am hearing that some are removing the cupholders from the back of the motor box to improve airflow and, as a result, acceleration. Some are trying ACME props with different cupping as well. The worst slalom equipment I own is between my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller The_MS Posted July 7, 2014 Baller Share Posted July 7, 2014 Remove the cup holders. That is a tip you wont find anywhere else on the web. BOS comes through again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Razorskier1 Posted July 7, 2014 Baller Share Posted July 7, 2014 @OB -- non-approved prop! I finally got to drive my boat again after a 2 week hiatus due to high water. Acme 1281 that is 13.25x15VL3B with a .09 cup. Acceleration definitely improved and WOT now 43+ with 4900 RPMs. Still feels really nice to ski behind. Another person I know is using the same prop with the 0.65 cup (he tried the .09 also) and he said that the .065 is the real winner if you have a shorter setup. He said the .065 cup also skis great. Someone who drives promo should push MC to get another prop approved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdjs Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 For my situation, the bolts are only threaded to a point on the shaft. The nut was only able to tightened so far. This left extra movement when steering input was added yielding late or more input needed and then too much correction to reverse it. Now when making slight corrective movements, I get an immediate and less correction than before. On another note my WOT is 41mph with the OEM 4 blade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racerdjs Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 A slight correction, the bolt that is on the end of the rudder shaft is threaded and needs to be tight on that shaft. The shaft is threaded so the bold can be tight without any movment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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