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Stealth Issues


JJR
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I bought some Stealth bindings late last year. They are XL's and are pretty tight. I have had about a half a dozen sets on them and whilst I am now enjoying the feel the front boot places enormous pressure on the outside of my leg just above the ankle. The constant pressure has resulted in a hole about 4mm in diameter. I have tried using some thin high density foam inside the boot to protect my leg but the pressure deforms the foam.

From the depression in the foam, the pressure point is only about 5mm in diameter. It feels like the edge of the carbon of the shell.

Has anyone else had this issue? Would going to XXL stop this issue?

I have fairly bowed legs and I have the boots cantered to allow for this.

Any advice would be much appreciated. It's become too painful to ski in them and there not cheap! Maybe I'm doing something wrong but it is very disappointing.

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You need a heat gun. You will have to move that part away from the foot. It is not easy. Keep the heat gun moving at all times. Heat inside and out mostly outside. The Carbon has to get pretty damn hot. I use a C-Clamp, a rock and a wash cloth folded as many times a possible. Put the wash cloth on the outside, put the rock on the inside and use the 4" c-clamp to smash the rock into the carbon, and into the wash cloth. Let cool. Repeat if necessary.....
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Here is advice from The Fogman: "The bindings need to be canted underneath the arch side to alleviate this pressure. The shaft angle of everyone's leg is different so the arch side of each boot needs to be lifted or shimmed to line up the ankle bone better. The boots are very stiff laterally so they don’t give. Plastic and rubber boots [flex laterally], so you don’t need to [worry about canting].

 

Jamie Beauchesne uses coins glued to the plate to cant his Fogman bindings. I think the coins would work for you as well, and the most your new cants should cost are a quarter apiece!

Lpskier

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Canting a boot will change how the ski responds to pressure from the foot/leg.....I did LOTS of research and testing on canting. So what is cured by canting may cause other problems. If you like the way it is skiing and don't want to change it heat molding the boot away from the foot is the only true fix.
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@Ipskier I already have the boots cantered as far as I can without requiring longer thread.

@Horton I am waiting to hear back from Connelly.

@Brewski, it appears that you can't remove liners and leather outer from the boot so how would you get enough heat into the carbon without destroying these?

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@jjr Try this: stand on the ski on the dock with your fin hanging out in space. Both feet in the boots, ski flat on the dock. Tie a rope to a dock post, use it to approximate your normal skiing position. The pressure on the outside and inside of your leg from the cuff of the boot should be equal. If there is significantly more pressure on the outside of your leg (on that nasty blister on your leg), it means the boots are not canted enough. If this is the case, go buy some longer bolts.

 

I'm not very bowlegged, but on my Stealth set up I've had to use all of the bolt to get it canted to match my leg. So it seems likely you are bowlegged enough that you need to cant the boot farther than the standard bolts will allow.

 

I don't know why the water ski industry hasn't caught up with snow ski boot guys. Almost all snow ski boots have a significant angle built into the joint between boot shell and cuff. None of the hardshell water ski boots have this.

 

If indeed you are in need of quite a bit more canting, you will be amazed at the positive difference it makes in your skiing, not to mention the effect of not having to try to ignore the pain from that big raw spot.

 

If you are centered up, then you are dealing with a manufacturing defect and should just ignore this post.

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This is truly the best ski forum on the face of the internet. A huge thanks to everyone who has made suggestions to help our fellow baller. @JJR, thank you for getting a hold of us. Let us know how the extra angle helps with the pressure point. If that doesn't help please call us before trying to heat mold the boot.
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Connelly spent two days searching their inventory to find me a flex match when I backed the truck over my new Prophecy. Can't say enough good about those guys.@jjr, I'm on a Prophecy with Stealths. Once you get the stealths set up and canted,I bet you'll love them. I've skied a lot of skis, so far Prophecy best I've tried. My buddies are chronic ski testers, but now 4 out of the six I ski with are on Stealth/prophecy. Partly so they can run Gatormod, but mainly because the ski is that good. Range from a 70 yr old that runs into 32, to a 55 yr old who runs into 38.
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@rockdog, great quality finish and the high front boot provides me with great support. Had an OTF late 2012 resulting in my second hyperextension dislocation of the right knee and foot drop. I was told that I needed a change in lifestyle and consequently I have no ACL or PCL. Hence if I wanted to keep skiing I needed to keep both feet together.

Loved the 2012 Prophecy so I went with the 2014 Prophecy with the Stealths. Throw in a CTi 2 custom knee brace and I was good to go. Took about 6 sets to get used to the boots. I found that I had to be conscious of my technique to get the ski to turn. These are my first hard shells and I found that you can't get away with poor body positioning. Once you get it right, the ski really lights up. I have no issues with flexion and getting weight forward like some other comments that I have seen. I find that I am now performing as well as I was prior to my last incident which I thought would not be possible. The laces are a bit of a pain but the comfort and feel are the benefit.

@Horton you are right. In what other sport can you get access to factory support? It's much appreciated.

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Here's a copy of our heat molding instructions for those who are interested:

 

To mold your Connelly Stealth bindings, first remove any screws, fasteners, straps and innersole before molding. Failure to remove the innersole can result in it becoming deformed by the heat. Pre heat the oven to 70C/160F. Place the binding in the oven for 20 minutes. Higher temperatures will void your warranty and may damage your binding. Caution: Do not place your feet in the hot shoes or you may burn your feet. Let them cool a little and test the shoe temperature with your hand before placing your feet in the shoes. Tighten the straps and allow to cool. If you have any lumps or bunions on your feet or if there are any areas causing discomfort, while the shoe is hot you can use the round end of a screwdriver to press out any part of the binding. You can heat mold the bindings as many times as you like.

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Connelly sent me these instructions after ruling out some other issues. I was sceptical at first but it actually works!

Followed the instructions, took the boot out of the oven and by the time I re laced the boot it was cool enough to put my foot in. I did have a thin sock on just as a precaution. The issue that I had was the top of the carbon boot was placing a great deal of pressure just above the ankle on the outside. I use the round end of a screw driver to push this out. I had to heat the boot twice to get the best result but the issue is now gone.

@Brewski was on the right path. The cool thing is that by being able to mould the shell to your leg type/shape, you actually reduce the need to cant.

Thank you to all thise that posted suggestions. Special mention for Robyn Corl and the Engineers from Connelly who have been most helpful.

 

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@patmaster, search BOS for thread called "gatormod patent is filed". I put a bunch of pics of modded stealths on that post. Also, I just shipped the first gatormodded powershell/Velcro system off to our brave test pilot @ob. He's gonna post some vids of his adventures with Velcrogatormod V1.0.
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