Accu-sink advise

[Rivvy]

I recently picked up a set of used accusink submarines and am strategizing for next year. I know this is an outdated system but it sounds like people overall have had decent luck with the systems. Any chance I can learn from past owners what the best way to set it up would be? I would be putting it in a shallow lake in Minnesota.

 

Questions that come to mind are?

-anchors or PVC and mainline? I possible could lay it out on the ice and drill/sink anchors with balls 2.5' down?

-brand and diameter of hose?

-best hose clamps and or T fittings? Brand? Buy where?

-Air only or 1/2 filled water bouys?

-Best 12V or 120V compressor?

-Tricks or tips?

-Does anyone have an install guide?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

[alex38]

me and a friend built one from scratch once, i think it was american palstics where we got everything, fittings, clamps, and hose all has to jive together, ill poke around the sites see if anything jogs my memory for sizing but it was a while ago

[alex38]

http://www.usplastic.com/?clickid=topnav

 

yeah, U.S. Plastic

will only work with pvc portable style course, however, we took one reinforced the center arms with extra pvc and used a stainless steel mainline to make it more durable and last longer.

 

us plastic will have all the tubing, fittings and clamps needed, look under tubing polypropylene... the rest is putting it together

[Stickman]

We're still using an Accu-Sink. If you are less than 7-8 ft deep on a public lake, don't bother. We are 9-10 ft deep, and when the level drops below 7-8 ft we get chewed up by boat props. Go with anchors at each end and a SS mainline. I don't recall the dia of tubing, but it is now over 10 years old and the cause of ever increasing problems with water entering the system. You will need to blow the water out of the system with the compressor on a regular basis in order to maintain proper flotation height to the balls. We use SS band clamps for the tubing, but those rust as well. I'll have to check out those plastic clamps. We use 120v compressor on shore, and run a line out to the course. Sorry, no install guide. Good luck.

[scuppers]

For all the effort and money this thing is going to consume you might be better off anchoring in a permanent course and just uncliping the buoys when not in use.

[sharkbait]

We have been using a accusink course for about 16 years straight. Its working better than ever since we finally found a very small fishing hook hole a few years ago. With your system under water 24/7 the pressure underwater will push water into your air system even on the smallest of leaks. Few months later you can not raise your course or worse the lakes underwater pressure cannot deflate the bladders and push the water in the line and not let some or all of your course down. Big pain in the rear. I do have most of the original directions. If you send me a fax # I will fax them to you. We use a harbor frieght 110v compressor onshore. Best advice I can give you if you get this up and running is to install a low pressure regulator and 30lb gauge. Never push more than 10-12lbs pressure to raise the course. All our problems with leaks would happen when we got in a hurry and crank up the pressure. Tubing would blow off bladders or bladders would pop. Sub weight with ballast should equal 40lbs dry when filling them up on shore (thanks for fellow BOS for that info.) Still have lots of extra tubing and parts if interested. Good Luck

 

[Rivvy]

Hmmm. Would it be a huge mistake to buy a stainless mainline and use my portable PVC? Thanks for all the advice.

[Ed_Obermeier]

Personally I'd suggest using 2" Schedule 40 pressure rated (white) water line PVC with a SS cable mainline rather than light weight, thin wall PVC such as used for a truly portable course setup if you intend to leave the course in long term (IOW a permanent instalation). Especially if you're going to add a sinker system to it. You'll get much better service life, it will maintain accuracy better, way less warpage etc. I'd be happy to send you a copy of our HD permanent course arm design if you want/need it. Ed @ ez-slalom.com.

[BuoyChaser]

I second Ed's recommendations on using heavy duty PVC and SS mainline.

 

You need to follow the instructions 100%, if not it will not work. So many people try to cut corners on the system and get failures. Also shallow/busy lakes with curious fisherman/boaters who want to anchor over the air/mainline can cause problems from experience as well.

 

I have the original instructions if you're interested in some assistance. What part of Minnesota is your lake? How far from the Twin Cities? Drop me a line.

[alex38]

actually was less work for me to just move to a lake that didnt need an accu-sink ha! but seriously they are kinda cool if you get them set up properly.

[thager]

@rivvy Am out of town for training. Will contact you when back in MN. Have had an Accu-sink for 11 years.