Nano 1 vs Twist Cross Course Speed

[buski]

I was more thinking to record the path. The readings would change depending on where the ski is and maybe someone smart could make sense of that and construct the ski path from it, and make some software to do it.

[A_B]

Maybe you can work something out with a cable park and instead of the cable pulling a skier, it can be rigged with a camera to go over the skier being pulled by a boat. It may not be high enough though.

 

Have you seen the new Radar promo? It is shot high from a crane as Rossi and Whitney and a few others ski underneath it.

 

 

 

[mwetskier]

how about http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skycam

[MAD11]

@scotchipman, How'd you make out? Sorry my answer was so short. Was unloading from my favorite flight in JHB when I got your message.

 

@horton Back does create speed to a point as you said. See my comment in my write up Scot referenced. Too far back for me creates no speed, width or angle. Believe me, as a long standing tail rider, I have tried it. Also, for me when way back on some skis it will create a situation where the tip falls in occasionally on my off side and bites hard or stops. I'm nice and free one second and then the whole thing is buried and I'm spun around backwards wondering why my interlock released from the back. Usually I get there in a futile search to make a ski work on my heel side that just doesn't want to. Have learned my lesson. If it doesn't turn 2/4, put in the box and get off it. I can always make a ski turn my offside. If it doesn't work on my good side easily then no matter what I do it usually just won't. Just thoughts.

 

[Stevie Boy]

@MAD11 are you still using the same numbers as originally posted ?

[MAD11]

@stevie boy Yes I am. Going to ski in cold water this week in SA so will see how they work. I have been skiing in 90+ in TX mainly, but not skiing much. Enough sets to get sore every time I'm home. I would think I will need to go back some, but won't know til after the first ride.

[ktm300]

@Mad11 I'm having this exact problem now: Also, for me when way back on some skis it will create a situation where the tip falls in occasionally on my off side and bites hard or stops. I'm nice and free one second and then the whole thing is buried and I'm spun around backwards wondering why my interlock released from the back. Usually I get there in a futile search to make a ski work on my heel side that just doesn't want to. Have learned my lesson. If it doesn't turn 2/4, put in the box and get off it. I can always make a ski turn my offside. If it doesn't work on my good side easily then no matter what I do it usually just won't. Just thoughts.

 

On the ski I am now riding, I had to move the boots back to get the onside working. From stock fin measurements I went back 55/1000 Added 80/1000 length and took out 30/1000 depth. I laughed out loud when it simply rocked and allowed me to run my top full pass (35). After monkeying with the ski for a long time, this setup works best BUT I do get the random tip fall in as you described onside. Had one ball lined up as well as I ever will @ 38, was balanced and the ski swapped ends at the apex. Why would having the boots back cause this? I do get the tip drop occasionally at other lines as well despite being in seemingly really good position. I need to remedy this but am at a loss for what to change.

 

Thanks.

[Stevie Boy]

@ktm300 for what it,s worth, have you tried holding your edge longer into 2 & 4, enabling you to stand up, letting the ski give you a good turn, I suspect you are coming in off the handle early and dropping in to take the pull = turn on the back of the ski with no cross course direction, late or tight at 3, how do I know, been there done that, to easy to get it wrong on your good side, thats why most peoples offside is better than their onside, because they have to stand and wait.

If I am wrong, apologies

[ktm300]

@stevieboy Thanks for the reply. Onside is my weak point. At least until I get on a ski where it isn't. I have had skis where the onside rocked and it rocks now with the off in the wilderness settings I have. I have tried most everything technique wise to remedy it. I was taught that the proper way to turn the onside was with a front foot weight bias. On a lot of skis, if I do this I fall over. Part of the problem is that I like my feet close together which probably puts the rear further forward than the ski is designed for. I have tried skiing with more spread but, really don't like it. With the boots back, fin back and shallower, I can get enough drift into the onside and can make a nice front foot biased free moving turn. With the boots and fin at near stock, I get exactly what you described: back and inside high load turn. My body is forced back to keep from falling over cause the ski looses too much speed and the tail does not drift wider than the tip.

The smartest thing I have ever read about the cause of my onside issues was written by Trent Finlayson. I have attempted to attach a pdf of it.

 

One thing I do not understand is how the boots back could cause what MAD11 described on the offside.

[MrBrown]

Thanks guys!!! I appreciate the feedback!

 

I thought that these 2 articles were pretty good.

 

http://waterskimag.com/features/2012/06/12/how-to-maximize-your-water-ski-stance/

 

Backward movement

 

Moving the bindings back on a ski can yield more outbound speed after your transition off the second wake because the wider fore body of the ski doesn’t engage into the turn as easily or quite as early. The speed created here allows the ski to carry out to the apex more effectively, and actually, the tip stays down better when the ski carries more speed into and through the turn.

 

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http://waterskimag.com/features/2012/07/12/position-your-arms-for-effortless-water-skiing/

 

Change your edge, not your position

 

As you transition from your cutting edge to your turning edge, it’s crucial to keep a low anchor point close to your body. Instead of rocking forward through the edge change in an attempt to “prepare” for the turn, keep your handle close to your hips as you swing into your turning edge. It may feel like your weight is farther back as you near the turn, but by keeping your handle position consistent, you will continue to travel on a longer outward path and arrive at the buoy with more width.