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HO S2 fin adj


Skihack
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Had the fin set to factory 6.88, 2.475, .730. It was hard getting width and ski was plain tough to ski on after 4 or 5 passes. Adjusted the fin to 6.83, 2.490, .730. Ski completed turn better as well as width being more easily attained. However, there seemed to be a little propoising or skipping is best I can describe it. Sad thing is that this improved the skiing a whole pass. Anyone know what is causing the skipping?
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When you back the length way off, that will make the ski hop going into the turn, mainly the offside. Is this where it is happening?

 

To remedy it, just add a little length, 5 thousandths at a time. You can decrease depth to get the same effect, but at 6.830, you should probably add a little length back. This will help initiate angle out of your offside. Too much length causes the ski to shut down faster and ski narrow.

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Ski settings aside is there a 'common' cause of the bouncing/porpoising on the offside? I get this from time to time (still too much for my liking) but I mostly blame myself since I'm still pretty inconsistent, am not always in a good position, etc.

 

Then from ski settings it sounds like not having enough length can cause it. "Too much length causes the ski to shut down faster and ski narrow". Is it the quick shutting down that's causing the bouncing?

 

@ShaneH what binding change are you getting at related to this?

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Bindings too far forward will cause the ski tip to engage too soon, which ends up feeling like needing more width. HO A and S skis really need to have the bindings farther back than the factory recommendation.

 

Bouncing or porpoising is always tip pressure related. The cure can be more tip/length, less tip/length or keeping the chest higher. A lot of people will come forward with the shoulders on their offside, suddenly increasing tip pressure which then causes the ski to push back a bit. If it's happening coming at the buoy, I'd add length. If it's happening after the apex I'd take tip pressure away by taking tip/length out of the fin or working to lead with the chest and not the head.

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@skimech I've been wondering what you mean by "ski completed turn better." If by "better" you mean easier, that would be inconsistent with the changes made so they likely forced a technique adjustment that is working for you. But, if by "better" you mean with less tendancy for the tip to bite at the end of the turn, then your results are consistant with the changes you made, and you can get the same results, but without the hopping, by making the following adjustments.

 

I agree with what @ShaneH said about going back to stock FL and moving the bindings back. Moving the binders back will get rid of the hopping and tip bite, and give you more width. You can achieve similar results by moving the fin back from stock. If you wish your ski was a bit shorter, move your bindings back. If you wish your ski was bigger or offered you more support, move your fin back. Moving the bindings back effectively shortens your ski. Moving the fin back effectively makes the ski longer. With both, you can change the ski's handling without affecting the support you are getting from its wet surface area.

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@skimech....One thing the S-2 does not like, and that is coming into the buoy FAST and trying to then turn Hard. This can cause it to skip no matter what your settings are !!!

 

My S2 settings are 6.750 Jaws 6.822 Tips 2.505..DFT at .735, wing 7 degrees and bindings 1/8th FWD.

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