RCX fin set up

[skispray]

Does anyone have any really great fin numbers for an RCX?  I'm at the stock settings now and to be honest I think they suck.  I'm just getting frustrated as I know the ski can work well but I feel like the ski turns super sluggish and doesn't finish with much angle to speak of on my offside.  I was on a monza before, maybe this is just a school bus of a ski, but the fact that so many people think it's fast makes me feel it may have some potential.  Any help?  Thanks in advance.

[Director Darwin]

Where are your bindings?  What type of bindings?  What size RCX?  LFF or RFF?  Speed and line length?  Give me some details and I'll provide some help.   We have several RCX's at my site - all with different fin settings but close enough that I think I can give you a range to work within.  Stock length is too long - stock depth (can be) too deep.   Stock DFT is about right.

[Boody]

I was having similar issues with my RCX and put on a carbon fin, really made the ski come alive, same numbers.  I have a carbon fin if you are interested.

[PSM]

I've been playing with a 66" RCX this fall for a bit, and really enjoy the ski.  I'm running a Reflex front, and a Wiley rear at stock (29.50"), and at 36 MPH the fin numbers I seem to like best are "around":

6.890"

2.505"

0.750"

I've been running a 9 degrees of wing since our water is cold (50F), but will go to 8 in the spring.  I agree with JD, stock length seems too long.  Hope this helps!

[at6]

I had the same problem with the offside at stock settings - the ski would not cast out. Removing length and moving the bindings a little back for me really helped.

 

I'm on a 66" with FM hardshells at 29.25" (34 mph). (run almost all 32offs, just starting to get some consistency at 35). My end of summer numbers were 6.902, 2.505 and .753, wing at 8. I've been doing some fin tweaking for the cooler water, but I think the base problem was that I was cold. Once we moved to drysuits, the skiing consistency came back.

 

I'm currently using the stock fin, but need to re-try my carbon fin from my older Nomad.

[skispray]

Thanks for the help guys.  To JDarwin, I'm on Animals right now, 29.5" from the back of the ski.  This is the center hole on these bindings.  I believe stock had them one hole forward but this distance was much more comfortable for me.  The RCX is 66", I'm LFF and I'm running into -28' off @ 36mph (although I'm not anywhere near consistent at 22 off).  Last year at this time I was consistently running 28 off the dock, so that's where the frustration comes from.  Thanks for your input.  To Boody, how much would you want for the Carbon Fin?  I've never really heard a bad word spoken about them!  I'll try to get a baseline setting based on what everyone told me and report back.

[Director Darwin]

First - you've already done item # 1 - move your bindings back one hole.  Regarding the CBR fin,   I've tried the 88 CBR fin - no good.  Waiting on a friend to send me his 106 to try.  I used this fin in the RC with some success.

Next - your offside problem may not be in the turn but in the pre-turn.  If your fin is too long, the ski won't release off the 2nd wake and therefore you are narrow into your offside turn - giving the impression that it is not turning due to being downcourse at the finish.  Try these fin number ranges:

Length (tips):  6.900 to 6.920

Depth:  2.500 to 2.508

DFT - .745 to .765

Wing:  8 deg is stock for 36mph - try 7 deg.

From what you have stated, I would start w/ the length first.  Possibly start in the middle of the range for each:  6.910/2.504/.755 

[Boody]

Skispray, I got a 116 for myself and a 106 for my wife.  I put the 116 on my 06 Nomad and liked the performance.  I then got the new RCX and thought I would run it stock to get used to it.  I liked the way it skied so much I never put the carbon fin on.  My skiing began to deteriorate and I ordered an A1.  While waiting for the ski to arrive, I put the carbon fin on.  My skiing improved and I loved how the ski felt with the carbon fin.  That is when I became a believer and actually canceled my A1 order.  The ski turned better, while everything else stayed the same.  I later got the A1 and liked it so I stuck with it.

I have since bought two used Horton HO carbon fins, paying $90, so that is what I would like.  A few other skiers whom I highly respect are also believers in the fin.  Honestly I am not trying to make a sale by any means.  The fin I have for sale is a 106, $90 shipped.

 

[Old MS Accout]

The 106 rocks on the Monza. I am waiting for warmth to try it on the Sauce.

[slalomdude]

JD,

Can you provide some advice for a 67", with regard to Binding and fin location. Also I am getting ready to swap over to a reflex front/rtp from a D3 rubber, do I move back or forward from stock?. Thanks in advance

[Director Darwin]

My neighbor is riding a 67" (came off a Fisher).  He uses a Reflex front / Wiley rear.  I would put your back binding at stock position and then place the Reflex whereever you get the distance between your feet you are comfortable with.  As for the fin, start with the following:

6.910 tips

2.505 depth

.745 DFT

7 deg wing.

If you need further details regarding the binding set up, let me know.

[slalomdude]

Joe, What would you describe as stock position for a RTP, I havent ever seen a measurement for this, would it be center of the holes ?. I was told by the guys at d3, that the Nomad RCX was unlike the X5 in that bindings shouldnt be run forward of stock.They indicated that forward would put you off the seetspot, any thoughts?

 

[skispray]

well I was waiting on a new fin block, which came in today (the DFT fin stripped out), so I was able to play with the fin a bit.  I put the fin in the middle of JDarwin's numbers.  Results were a great onside, better than before, but the same problems I was having previously with the offside.  What is happening is I'm coming into 2 early, but the ski doesn't finish with good angle, I don't have a great pull and no carry out going to 3.  I usually turn 3 narrow, am later at 4 and the problems get exacerbated.  This is common at 22 and 28 off.  After the first set I took out some tip (less length) and put the wing at 7.5 degrees, but I didn't notice any real difference.  I can't understand how I can be early and wide going into 2 and then consistently have such problems finishing the turn that I'm narrow at 3.  I've jumped on an MPD and a Goode while waiting for my new fin block and my offside was killer on both so I'm attributing the problems to the RCX.  Based on what I've described, what fin adjustments might help?  Thanks again everyone.

[Director Darwin]

Slalomdude - yes, I would start w/ center holes for RTP.  I don't have any experience w/ this set up but I would start there.  I agree that you don't need to run bindings forward on this ski - they solved that issue w/ a re-tooled rocker.

skispray - taking length out may have made things worse - maybe not.  Everyone here LOVES the offside turn on the RCX so let's think about some solutions:  First, put the length back in to create some tip pressure at the apex of the turn.  If the ski is making "bus turns" on the off-side, tip pressure may be lacking.  Another may be related to depth.  You didn't say what depth you are running, but I would take 3-5/1000's out of the depth.  You stated that you are nice and wide so taking out the depth should not have much of a negative impact on protection of width.  By taking out depth, you allow the ski to "slide" at the end of the turn and finish quickly w/ angle.  Try these and let me know.

 jhd

[at6]

Just my 2 cents on the RCX offside.  I'd try taking more tip out.  When I had the length at 6.912 (and up), the ski would not cast free off the wake, and I ended up with the ski staying under me and a wheelie out of the turn.

I was planning on adding more tip because I thought the ski need to turn more aggressively based on my what I was feeling.  But instead Itraded emails with someone you know Joe (Greg) and he suggested taking tip out.

What an amazing difference --my offside was suddenly my strong side, so strong that it took me a little to adjust to the extra angle going into my onside turn.  Tip between 6.900 and 6.905 seems to work just fine for me. 

 

[Director Darwin]

At6 - really good points.  I did qualify my opinion as saying it may or may not work.  Your experience is the same as some folks around me and I've always subscribed to running the minimum length you can get away with.  But depending on style and body position in the pre-turn, too little tip will result in lack of tip pressure.  In the end, I agree with you and would probably recommend taking out depth first and not adding tip.

[skispray]

Got on the water today to make some adjustments.  Started by taking out a little depth, it seemed to help a bit, but it didn't get rid of the problem entirely.  After the first set I decided to add some DFT because I didn't feel like I was getting enough angle through the wakes, this combined with my depth movement really seemed to help.  I had some nice passes and the ski felt like it was coming through and finishing the turn on the offside, which was a first.  I'll probably leave the numbers there for another set to make sure I didn't just have a couple real good passes.  One question I have is, are you guys measuring DFT flat from the tail, or needle from tail on those numbers?  If it's flat from the tail I may even add more DFT.  We'll see.  I'm also at 6.900 tips right now, what would moving it to 6.910 do?  Thanks again.

[Director Darwin]

OK - that may be the problem - we all measure flat - needles going to give you a false setting relative to our numbers - needle should be somewhere around .815 (I'm guessing) but measure flat and I think you will find you need to go further forward.  That may have been the problem all along - I should have clarified.